Tool list?

[jeffery dalcour]

Hi,
I'm getting ready to start the tear down of my 1978 3.0 engine. I have a new stand and a five point yoke. As well as a cherry picker. What I need to know (and I'm sure this has been covered before) is what specialty tools can I not do the job without.

Jeff

[Ken911]

Cam alignment tool, dial indicator for cam timing with the z block to hold it. A torque wrench. Feeler gauge for adjusting the valves. Ring compressor. Also a good set of micrometers for checking clearances unless you plan to just send everything to a machinist to check it all. I borrowed some from work dont really trust that stuff to other people.

[ajwans]

46mm crowfoot wrench + cam holder tool for taking the big nuts
which hold the cams in place off.

Big wrenches (don't know the size off hand) to take off the oil lines.

andy

[lucittm]

I'm not sure about the 1978, but since you have the engine on the yoke you can just look. The flywheel on my car was held on by M12 XZN "triple square" headed bolts. I was able to R&R by using a kit from Pep boys (broke the tool on removal and they exchanged it for the reinstall).

Also a metric sized stud remover kit was helpful for the pesky exhaust studs.

I needed a long M8 and M10 Allen on a 3/8" drive and I wanted a good one so I went with S&K.

The oil fitting wrenches are 32mm and 36mm. The best arrangement is a 32mm crowfoot (CWF32M from JNO S. Solenberger & Co.) and a 32 x 36mm Stahlwille open end wrench (from ZDMAK).

A seal puller was handy for the crank and camshaft seals. And you may want to consider purchasing some Olista high pressure grease (000-043-024-00) from our host for the clutch and distributor assembly. I asked them to source it as a Porsche recommended lubricant and there is really no equivalent that I could find.

Although not considered tools, the various sealants and chemicals (Loctite 574, Threebond 1211 and 1194, and the thread locking blue and red Loctite along with some assembly lube are going to be needed when the engine goes back together.

Mark

[ninesixfour]

A whole set of factory oil line wrenches is less than $50 last time I checked so just get those.

As mentioned above, get a good quality torque wrench that can be accurately set to as low as 10ft/lbs. The micrometer and feeler gauges are also used frequently. Some 1/4" drive sockets with extensions and swivels come in handy for removing the CIS.

[jeffery dalcour]

Thanks to all that have given help. I have placed an order(with our host) for the first tools I'll need for the tear down and will order more as I need them.
Jeff

[brp914]

Originally Posted by ajwans

46mm crowfoot wrench + cam holder tool for taking the big nuts
which hold the cams in place off.

Big wrenches (don't know the size off hand) to take off the oil lines.

andy

I think with the 3L you'll use the 3 prong holder, not the 46mm.

For my current build I got the circlip injector. Nothing worse than having one of those things sail off into space or dissappear inside your engine.

With the 3.2 and which may retroactively apply to your engine, the head studs are torqued by angle. I got an el cheapo torque angle gauge but soon realized the readings were erroneous. So I made a little tool by makinga sleeve and pointer mounted on my 3/8 extension and used the head bolt bores to measure 90 degrees.

[joetiii]

Does it matter whether you use a back plunger or bottom plunger dial indicator?

[KTL]

Originally Posted by joetiii

Does it matter whether you use a back plunger or bottom plunger dial indicator?

No matter. The Z-block holds the plunger shaft of the dial indicator. It doesn't really care where the dial sits.

[304065]

Originally Posted by KTL

No matter. The Z-block holds the plunger shaft of the dial indicator. It doesn't really care where the dial sits.

A bottom mount is probably better- remember that you have to very precisely locate the contact point on the edge of the valve keeper, which means you have to keep an eye on it when you tighten the Z-block down.

I used a pair of Digital Mitutoyos sourced inexpensively off eBay. If you wait a while you can find them inexpensively. The cool thing about digital is that you can set them up in absolute mode, so you can verify that both cams are timed the same, even though they are 180 degrees out of phase.

[Walt Fricke]

This 1978 3.0 is going to have the 46mm nut cams unless someone recammed it. It will have the 9 bolt crank and flywheel, which use a smaller bolt (10mm instead of 12) and thus a smaller 12 point Allen. But the torque required for the flywheel is half that of the earlier flywheels.

[nick_911]

A set of universal joint sockets where my best friend with those hard to get to nuts and bolts. Also I found a good set of hex sockets are a very good investment.

[joetiii]

Originally Posted by 304065

A bottom mount is probably better- remember that you have to very precisely locate the contact point on the edge of the valve keeper, which means you have to keep an eye on it when you tighten the Z-block down.

I used a pair of Digital Mitutoyos sourced inexpensively off eBay. If you wait a while you can find them inexpensively. The cool thing about digital is that you can set them up in absolute mode, so you can verify that both cams are timed the same, even though they are 180 degrees out of phase.

The analog indicators Ive been seeing all measure in inches while the digital will convert to metric. What degree of accuracy do I need. .01? or .001?