Trani-Replacing Shift Shaft Seal

[Uwon]

After more than three years, I'm finally in the process of installing the trani on to the bell housing and I note that the trani is leaking at the front by the shifter rod. How do I get the old seal out without disassembling the trani? Any advice would be appreciated.

[Uwon]

Somebody must have an answer to my problem. Please chime in. Thanks....

[Eagledriver]

If you are talking about the shift rod seal (the round oil seal), then you just carefully pry it out. New one will press in with a suitable piece of pipe and a hammer.

-Andy

[Walt Fricke]

You should be able to pry it out. Since you will be replacing it, you don't need to worry about damaging the seal. Unless you use some really hard steel tool, you aren't going to damage or scratch the shift shaft.

I'm thinking one of the little body work tools with a T handle and a 90 degree bent end might slip past the seal and, when rotated, let you tug it out. You could work it around bit by bit.

You could drill a hole in the metal part of the seal, allowing you to get such a tool in. Or use a slide hammer - they usually have spiral tapered screw-like attachments. Or screw in some self tapping screws, and use their heads to pry against.

Much easier to do this kind of thing with the tranny out of the car, as yours is.

[Uwon]

Hey guys.
Gave it a good try as you both suggested, but all that happened was that I mauled the seal and was concerned that I would damage the shaft or seat. So I opened the trani up at the front. This sucker was in there so hard that it took some time to get it out. I guess 427,000 km and never opened is a reasonable excuse. The inside looks brand new and since it was not acting up I'm just going to close it up and hopefully do another 427,000 km. The other seals were changed as a preventive measure when I last changed the clutch.
Thanks again. Cheers....

[Walt Fricke]

Isn't it nice to have the tranny out to begin with. Pulling the nose cone is pretty easy compared with getting into the rest of the beast.

Based on discussions with tranny rebuilders, I've given up on the stock gaskets for joining the tranny housing sections. I have used the orange Loctite 574, but now am using Hondabond.

[Uwon]

Walt, many thanks for the info. Located a seal locally made by Victor and I'll stick with 574 as we do not have a Honda dealership nearby. Cheers....

[KTL]

574 works good for sealing but I hate the future cleanup of the hardened sealant. Good suggestion of Hondabond by Walt. It's just like the Threebond 1194 stuff recommended for use on the 911 engine case perimeter.

It's silicone-like and remains flexible so cleanup is a bit easier because it's rubbery. So for a seal job that doesn't require the shear strength that the 574 is known for (very beneficial on 911 engine case main webs to reduce fretting), I like something like Honda/Threebond.

[Uwon]

KTL, many thanks for mentioning NAPA. We have one nearby and they Hylomar Universal Blue. Is this the stuff that you are referring to for the trani?
By the way, the Victor Reinz seal cost me $1.10 Canadian whereas Porsche wants $17.00+. Go figure....

[KTL]

I think Hylomar would work OK too. I recall somebody saying a fella who is a fantastic engine builder at Gunnar Racing only uses hylomar for case sealing. If its good enough to seal case flanges, should be plenty good for transmission case.



However, keep in mind that race engines are frequently torn down. So a sealant that works well enough, is easy to clean up is important. That's not the same as an engine or trans that gets dissembled every 20 years!

That being said, there are a LOT of hylomar-based sealants out there that people use for average everyday automotive use that must do its job for years

Yamabond/Threebond 1104 (now 1194 I believe)
Hondabond
Dirko (a hylomar-based version of the well know Curil-T around here)
Dow Corning 730 (not really a hylomar, but instead a fluorosilicone, whatever that is, and EXPENSIVE
Various Loctites (574, 573, 518) all work but I am not a fan of the hardening- clean up SUCKS
Curil-T (some like it, some don't)
Permatex Aviation Gasket Sealer (some like this, I have not had great results)

You can see the list can go on and on. For a trans case, I think the Hylomar blue will do you fine. Like you said, the paper gaskets are truly paper thin. I say forget the fragile paper gaskets and use an appropriate sealant of your choice.

Great score on the Reinz seal! Yep, sometimes Porsche dealer pricing is downright criminal!!!!