Rocker arm removal

[motogman]

I was adjusting the valves on my 3.2L last weekend and a couple of the adjuster screws did not want to back out easily to allow adjustment. I was concerned that the difficulty in turning the screw for adjustment might effect the ability to get the valve set correctly.

So I was wonder if the rocker can be removed without dropping the engine to take the R&R a bit further?

Have others encountered this condition? What causes it?

[yelcab1]

technically the rocker arm can be removed with the engine in place. But, it is really tough to do even if you have the right tool. The little allen head bolt can easily be stripped because you cannot get a good grip on the bolt with a small allen wrench or socket. The intake side is tough, the exhaust side has more access

i have not removed any rocker arms unless the engine is out and on a stand.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by motogman

I was adjusting the valves on my 3.2L last weekend and a couple of the adjuster screws did not want to back out easily to allow adjustment. I was concerned that the difficulty in turning the screw for adjustment might effect the ability to get the valve set correctly.

So I was wonder if the rocker can be removed without dropping the engine to take the R&R a bit further?

Have others encountered this condition? What causes it?

Valve(s) should be closed so valve spring tension doesn't prevent the adjuster from easily rotating. If closed, and rotating the adjuster is still difficult, the threads could be distorted or bunged up somehow (e.g previous over tightening). If so, this should only happen on a few rockers, not all unless Arnold Schwarzenegger was the previous tech.

The rocker arms can be removed with the engine installed. Suggest good allen wrenches and a 6" pipe to provide more leverage to rotate the typical L-shaped hex key. Again, rotate engine and confirm the valves are closed and no valve train tension before attempting removal (rotor points to cylinder at TDC, end of compression).

A secondary path: You can also access the rocker hardware with a long drive extension and hex drive sockets from either end of the cam box. At the front, there's metal tin surround to remove and the engine oil cooler on the pass. side. At the rear, quite a bit more involved; the tensioner assy., idler, camshaft, chain and chain box.

To tighten in place, you'll probably need a small 1/4" dr. torque wrench (space in the cam box between rockers is limited).

Hope this helps somewhat.
Sherwood

[yelcab1]

just to show you how difficult this can be

I had a 3.2 engine on a stand.
I used a 5mm hex bit, cut to 3/4 inch, epoxied it into a 5mm 1/4 inch socket, used a 1/4 ratchet, and I broke 3 of those tools without being able to turn the allen bolt. The wall of the 5mm 1/4 socket was too thin for the torque I was putting on it.
the 5mm hex allen key was hopeless.

Finally, I had to come back to a 5mm allen socket with 3/8 fitting, used a 3/8 ratchet to finally break it loose. I made a sign of the cross after that.

No offing way that thing was coming out with the engine in the car.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by yelcab1

just to show you how difficult this can be ..........

............ No offing way that thing was coming out with the engine in the car.

A partial engine drop may ease this procedure on selected cylinders.

Sherwood

[HawgRyder]

All of this maybe a moot point...if the shafts were installed the wrong way around...you might not be able to get any tool in there to begin with?
If the engine is virgin...the factory will have done them correctly...but if has had work done...the mechanic might have assembled in wrong on the bench...and the only way to get at the ends of the shafts would be to have it on the bench again.
Just a thought.
Bob

[Walt Fricke]

1) I wouldn't worry about the difficulty of turning the adjuster screw if it can be turned at all. That is something you can address when doing a full teardown/rebuild of a motor, but the fact that threads were distorted shouldn't be a problem as long as turning is possible. In fact, being hard to turn might make getting things "just right" easier, as less chance of tightening the nut also turning the screw.

2) I've replaced broken rocker arms at the track. And on motors where I have all the cap screw socket heads facing the flywheel (easiest way to install stuff on an engine stand). Yes, at the rear end you need a shortened hex for one of the bolts, as the chain box will be in the way. Yes, at the flywheel end you will have the hassle of removing sheet metal. But some of that is inevitable anyway - to remove the rocker shaft you need access to both sides anyway.

3) I've long wanted to find a 1/4" torque wrench at a reasonable price conpared with most such wrenches. You need something with a quite small head, and probably to shorten the Allen socket which goes with it. But in the field, you can just tighten by hand. The tool sizes involved aren't going to allow you to overtighten. This isn't a place where you need even torque on every fastener, like head stud nuts.

But again, do you really need to do this at this time? Why turn a simple valve adjustment into a large project? I bet your valve lash was not all that bad anyway. Just work at setting it to where you want it, and call it good?