993 Cam Alignment -- Without the tool

[Jack Olsen]

As I understand it, there's a special fixture (or pair of locks) for aligning the camshafts on the heads of 993 motors.

I don't have that tool.

I assume there's an alternate path to doing this for a 1995 993 motor. Does ayone have the specs or some good advice?

[camgrinder]

You can you put on an adjustable rocker, set lash to .1mm and set the cams to 1.2mm at overlap. This setting puts the cams in straight up in the engine.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by camgrinder

You can you put on an adjustable rocker, set lash to .1mm and set the cams to 1.2mm at overlap. This setting puts the cams in straight up in the engine.

That's the way I did mine. it's not perfect but then neither is the factory method w/ tools.

Best for a track car is to go to solid lifters anyway.

[Jack Olsen]

Thanks, guys.

[camgrinder]

Just to be clear, use the adjustable rocker to set cam timing. Then switch back to the hydraulics.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by camgrinder

Just to be clear, use the adjustable rocker to set cam timing. Then switch back to the hydraulics.

I think that we all understood that
here's mine being timed

[LUFTMAN]

i have factory 964/993 cam tensioners 9401 tools(2) for sale like new $426.00 april 2011 price new asking $300.00 regards tom pics. available

[Jack Olsen]

Could someone tell me what the correct orientation is for the tools? I've been assuming it's straight up and down, but they could go in any of three positions.

[geolab]

of course. they are made like this to rotate the cams with the male 16mm bolt on the back.
for rotation, yes they are both up straight, so for info, we are looking at the engine from the back now.
As in picture, the male tool goes on the right side of engine looking from the back.
The female on the left.
AS WELL, the stripe inside of each tool goes on the outside part of the engine ie;
the right side tool will have the stripe to the right of right (luckily as in picture)
left female tool , the stripe to the outside left of left ( as well as in picture above)

ps: you cannot use these tools without the oval bolts parts 000.721.955.40
if you use standard M6 bolts (as a lot of people do) you will have an un-precise timing.

[geolab]

[jhg41977]

Bill, Which tools do you need in order to time the cams using a solid lifter method?

[Trophy]

Originally Posted by jhg41977

Bill, Which tools do you need in order to time the cams using a solid lifter method?

Solid Lifter
Elephant foot adjuster and lock nut
Z-Block
Dial Gauge
.04 Feeler Gauge
Screw Driver
Wrench

+ Tools to loosen and tighten the cam bolt.....

[jhg41977]

Thanks Trophy. I went ahead and bought the 993 tools. Since I did not have any of the tools and parts needed for the mechanical method anyway and I want to get the car back together this just worked out to be the best way for now.

[earossi]

I may be mistaken, but I think that you also need a lock for the crankshaft or IMS. And, you'll need the chain tensioners so that you can remove all slack from both chains before tightening the cam bolts.

[Walt Fricke]

I don't think locking the crank is needed. Even with good pressure on the timing chain, rotating the cam before putting the pin in doesn't turn the crank. And it is easy to watch to see that the crank stays put.

With Bill's method you'd need something to hold the camshaft - in this case the hollow tool with pins in its end which locks into the sprocket to hold the cam while you tighten the central bolt.

I'm guessing that one of the virtues of the 993 lock the cam method is that not only is it quicker, but once you are set you just tighten the bolt, letting the special cam lock tools do the holding?

Me, I prefer the older style with the 46mm special tool to tighten the big nut, while another holder holds the protruding end of the cam. If I had more experience with these other systems maybe I'd get comfortable with them also.

[earossi]

The 993 cam locks lock both cams so that they are properly indexed relative to the crankshaft which has to be locked down in the TDC position, as I understand cam timing on a 993. "Eyeballing" the notch in the crank pully aligned to the split line in the case is not accurate enough to set timing. So, you need to lock the crank to TDC in as precise as the two cam locks used for the procedure. With the cams and crank precisely indexed and locked down, one can then tighten both cam bolts without placing any strain on the chains other than the mechanical tentioners that are also required.

[pete911]

You still need the tool to hold the cam to tighten the cam nut. If you rely on the cam lock you can break a piece out of the rear of the cam (I did that)

Pete