Given the relatively low mileage on the motor, should I redo the oil galley plugs?

As long as you don't find any indication of foreign debris in the engine, I wouldn't bother. Do some squirting in the oil passages with the high pressure of brake or carb cleaner and see if you find any bits of anything. Same goes for the crank passages. If you don't find anything, i'd not worry about pulling the plugs.

Thanks Kevin:):)

If you still have all 24 of these head studs and they are not damaged do you want to sell them? And if you do how much do you want for them?

thanks.

Well I has a shipment from Henry. Supertec Head studs and nuts, Arp Rod bolts,
Wilwood Gasket kits, RSR seals, Engine Sealant Kit, Gotez Rings, Oil Return tubes,
and some .50mm Cylinder Base Gaskets.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385947679.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385947697.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385947714.jpg

Need to get some wrist pin circlips. Where should I source these?
Our host only has wristpins up to 1986.

90090801900 is the part number. Type it in the search field and Pelican will give you a price from their local source, which I believe is Pacific Porsche

Received my piston pin circlips today, Thanks Henry.

:confused:Slow progress on engine. Case has been split and bearings and crank checked out.
Bearings are within spec but are showing signs of wear. Especially number 1, main thrust bearing. Not sure if I should replace them all with Glyco bearings and coat them with Loctite Dry Film Lubricant. Or reuse existing bearings and coat them with Dry Film. Any thoughts?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388702384.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388702418.jpg

Number 1
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388702447.jpg

Typical Rod Bearings
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388702465.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388702518.jpg

Another question. What is best way to clean out front oil cooler and lines? I am worried about contamination of my new engine. The engine teardown showed signs of dirty oil, dirt, and sealant. 1 of the oil squirters is plugged. 2 squirters are stuck open. May have to replace them.

Best way to clean the front cooler is ultrasonic cleaning. Aviation industry is a good source for this.

Cleaning the solid lines from the t-stat to the cooler is best done with some wire/fish-tape and lint free cloth attached to the end of the wire. You fish the wire thru the line and pull the cloth plug thru (VERY securely attached to the wire) via the free end of the wire. Keep cleaning until the cloth comes out very clean.

Pieces of an old t-shirt work good! Something woven like a cotton shirt is best. I would not use something like a terry/looped cotton towel because the loops can get hung up on edges as you pull the wire thru.

Thanks Kevin. Any thoughts on bearings?

They look good but considering the work to get to this point I would renew them.

Are they expensive?

There has been a lot of problems with quality of new bearings. Glyco bearings, not being in spec and being scratched.

I don't like the look of that #1 thrust bearing. Lots of wiping on it and also some spotty-ness. That one can be bought separately I believe. The other "normal" main bearings look pretty good aside from a few that look like they got wiped by some debris? They did their job, as bearings are supposed to allow for debris to embed and avoid damage to the crank surface.

I think the rod bearings look better than the main bearings. Maybe the mains were reused last time it was built? Because the rods are usually the ones that show the most wear since they're subjected to more abuse by the swinging rod.

Glyco aftermarkets are indeed somewhat of a crap shoot. I got a set of rod bearings that look and measure well. Then I got a set of mains that I have yet to measure but they look iffy from a visual/color perspective. Nice thing about Pelican is they'll take 'em right back if you are not happy with them.

Hey Kevin

Have you ever used or heard of Tech Line Coatings? They have a whole range of internal and external engine coating products. I was thinking of using their dry film lubricant on my bearings, pistons, and cams.

Link: Welcome to Techline Coatings

Thanks for the feed back on the bearings. Planning on replacing all the bearings.

Regards

John

Yes i've heard of TechLine. Never used them but they're pretty popular in the DIY area of coating.

You'll want to confirm what clearances you've currently got before you coat the bearings. I'd suggest someone like Calico or Swain. Their bearing coating is quite thin (0.0002") and shouldn't affect clearances too drastically.

Piston skirts you want to be careful with. Even the worn clearance of P&Cs is pretty tight. Some of those hard protective skirt coatings are pretty thick and will take up the clearance to zero. But something as basic as dry film moly spray is just a sacrificial/break in treatment to protect the skirts at initial startup. No worries about using that. I use an inexpensive rattle can of it made by Safe T Eez. There's also Dow Corning 321 that's a little more pricey and has better sticking power.

I don't like the dry film stuff on the cams. It makes a mess when you're assembling the engine & rubs off while rotating the engine. WebCam puts it on their lobes & I wipe it off. Would rather just use assembly lube

Don't discard your old bearings. I just measured my new set of mains and not pleased with the results. Measured rather inconsistent on the bore gauge. Measurements varied by almost 0.0020" For reference, max clearance as stated by Porsche is 0.0028" A variance of almost 0.0020" is nearly the entire allowable clearance!

I placed my order last night. Hopefully I will see them next week some time. I may just end up replacing number 1 thrust bearing. All my existing bearing were within spec. Still considering the dry film lubricant.

Dry film stuff can't hurt anything so no big deal if it makes things a little "fat"

I'm starting to think that a lot of the bearings i've seen that show apparent wear are actually related to bearing quality/inconsistency instead of an issue with bore alignment. The #1 bearing I recently measured was inconsistent when measuring in various locations, as well as it having the tightest clearances.

Visual inspection can be a bit misleading. So actual measurement is helpful to let you know what's going on with what you see. For example, out of curiosity I meas'd a brand new #8 bearing insert (from Porsche dealer, not aftermarket) and compared it with a used one. The used one has an area inside it, like most any used #8, that shows wear/different coloring on one side of the ID. But when you measure it, it measures OK. Not only did it measure OK, it meas'd the same dia. as the new bearing!

Point being is that the coating on the bearing that wipes off from contact is REALLY thin. So thin & easy to rub off that when I measure the bearings with the bore gauge, the coating is rubbed by the measuring anvil. The contact pressure of the anvil is not that great, plus it has a roller ball to reduce the rubbage. And I lube the bearings w/a swab of oil to reduce the friction.

Even with the wiping of the coating there's no detectable change in thickness since the coating is so thin. My indicator on the bore gauge is 0.0005" increments and it's actually quite sensitive in that you can "see" the needle consistently provide readings in between the increments. But given that we're looking at pretty tight clearances (0.0020" is really hard to visually see if you open up your 0-1" mic to that amount) I don't like the resolution provided by a 0.0005" increment indicator. Looking to get one that has 0.0001" increments and enough travel to function well in the bore gauge.