Thanks.

Nice thread - about a month ago my wife and I were headed to a local rally run in her '83 SC, and about 3 miles from home the car started smoking like nothing I've seen before - thought the engine may have caught fire, but when we pulled over, it was all coming out the tail pipe. We had it towed home, and I'm thinking a ring broke, or something to that effect, and tore up a cylinder. It does run, but didn't want to take a chance and wreck anything else in the motor.

Whatever it was, it's time for a complete motor rebuild. The car has 143k miles on it, and I could tell this day was coming soon. :eek: But my wife loves the car, and it's been a lot of fun on the weekends.

Anyway - I plan to do the rebuild myself, haven't done a 3.0 before, and wanted to find out how much you (and other who've posted) have budgeted for a rebuild of this magnitude. It'll be a stock rebuild, no performance mods necessary.

But I expect when I dig into it, it'll need rods, heads redone, crankshaft, etc.

Also - could some contact info be posted to the shops that were recommended for the work that was sent out? (Zims, Ollies)

Thanks !

Steve

From other threads there's also Bob Hirst at Anchor Atlantic: anchoratlantic@gmail.com. He was quick to respond to me via email yesterday. Costs sound reasonable.

My car now burns oil/smokes on start-up too regularly, so I am going down this path too, and would like to know who people trust.

@sjsst41 - sorry to hear about your wifes 83. Mine is an 83 to. As a lot of the pros will tell you it depends on a lot of factors as to how much it will run. Replacing pistons and cylinders, I would say 10k and up. Not replacing pistons and cylinders and keeping the "while your in there" to the bare min, anywhere from 4500 to 7500.00. My budget was 6k. But I've bought a new clutch. Timmy2 built a harness for me. Replaced rocker shafts. Heads have new everything. New starter. New alternator. Probably new clutch components; throw out fork, springs and cable. Had a bunch of stuff powder coated. So I'm over that. Machine shop is a big portion of the budget. I made a 400.00 mistake, by removing a 3 case through bolts a little too quickly and pulled 3 o-rings along with them, putting o-ring debris into the oil galleys.



Cleaning out thread bosses with ARP thread chaser, cleaner. Replacing studs at engine to trans mount. Should I use a thread locker, Loctite, Permatex thread locker for these?

@NOLAsc. Anchor was my second choice.

Not much to do while waiting on torque wrenches to be calibrated. Applied JB Weld over all the case plugs Ollie's R & R'd.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385933247.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385933269.jpg

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385933404.jpg

Did some more case cleaning. Installed right side case to yoke with new studs. Cleaned out head studs with ARP thread chaser.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385933768.jpg
Didn't want to use a tap, made me real nervous to think about screwing up threads.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385933742.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385933791.jpg
Finding a thread chaser was more difficult than I first imagined it would be, at least getting one locally.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385933811.jpg

man, that case is gorgeous!

where did you end up getting your thread chaser?

@ Bill, It's an ARP thread chaser from Jegs.

Another choice for a head stud thread chaser is a thread forming tap. Henry @ Supertec gets the credit for this idea.

McMaster-Carr

You can also use an old head stud to clean the threads. Cut a few lengthwise slots in the threads with a fine Dremel cutoff wheel or hacksaw blade. The slots act as passages for the gunk to collect in as you run the stud in & out of the hole

Good thread...stalled at deck height check on reassembly due to working 7 days. Outage over soon, should get back on it. Your case looks veddy nice. Good luck.

@Kevin, that is a good idea, and cheaper than the ARP clean out chaser.

I thought about making one from an old stud, but just wanted to makes sure I cleaned out the bosses as good as could. (translation: not sure how good I would have made the tool).

Think I need to add some more JB weld to:
here
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386035085.jpg
here
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386035119.jpg
and here?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386035164.jpg

Yep that's exactly where the casting of the case is thin, both inside and outside the case, around the metal "J" pipe that is connects the oil pump to the internal t-stat housing.

Thanks Kevin.

I would be reticent to put any JB weld inside the case. That 'window' inside the case is normal. I have only build a half dozen motors, and they all had that blemish, none of them leaked there or had any issues in that area. All of the motors have had hard lives on the track.

On the outside, I guess you'd be ok JB welding things. But inside the case, I'd be worried about it coming loose and breaking/clogging something. There isn't a problem like it is.

Thanks John. I'll just seal at oil cooler area.

Just be sure to inspect the interior thin spot for any pieces that can come loose. Peel any loose areas away and seal up the exterior, call it good.

Think I know the answer to this, but wanted to do a sanity check. Ollie's chamfered the left side of the case. There seems to be a lot of burrs that I believe will cut the case through O-rings. Should I attempt to deburr these, or just move on?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386643648.jpg

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386643682.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386643702.jpg
This one I went over with a counter sink bit. Cleaned up the burrs, but still has a lot of chatter marks and I'm not sure I can make it perfectly square.

rough
 

Those sure do look rough.

It looks like the one you touched up is close to ok but maybe you ran the drill too fast or pushed took hard?

How about a fine conical grindstone like dremel sells?

You could practice on something else that is similar. but uts hard to have another case just lying around, right.

I used a countersink for aluminum. Get one with 60 degree angle. The one I used is 2742A514 from McMaster Carr

McMaster-Carr

I operated it very slowly with my cordless drill