I found that doing the chamfer by hand I was able to vary the pressure and rotation enough no to get any chatter. Careful not to over do it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387040585.jpg

can anybody explain
 

why chamfer ONLY the left side of the case?

Thanks Ian, didn't see this. Already posted on Rennlist to your old thread. Mine didn't come out looking as good as yours, but I compared them to the right side and factory side looks about like mine, chatter and all.

This is Ollie's.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387049805.jpg

mine after.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387049856.jpg

@Bill. The right side of the case is already chamfered from factory. Some engines, for whatever reason did not come with case through bores on left side chamfered. There is some discussion, (see other threads on this forum) about O-rings leaking without the chamfers, especially using the Viton O-rings.

thanks!

Got the rods installed on the crank, fairly uneventful. Sealed the case. That was a different story. Nothing went according to plan. Had to call my wife in to the garage to hold chains and rods. I'd get the case to close up and saw a oil pump o-ring unseated. Started again and a rod would hang up on the case. Then the inner intermediate bearing popped out from a case stud on the right side nicking the boss.
Pulled case back off. Inspected and cleaned bearing. Checked boss. Scratched in front of the bearing. Now I'm really getting nervous and running out of time. Re-installed left inner intermediate shaft bearing. But, I think I forgot to add some assembly lube, (crap). Installed left case

Went around perimeter first. Then, torqued through bolts with O-rings. Pretty frazzled. Went ten minutes over my time. Missed two stud nuts, one at front bottom and one at rear bottom. Got a small bead of TB 1184 all around. A little less at top of case. Squeeze out on Loctite 574 looks ok, what I can see from the bottom of the case. Crank rotates OK. Thinking about disassembling and doing it again. Just have to clean-up all the sealants.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388109030.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388109072.jpg
Looks really neat, huh? Not how it ended up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388109125.jpg
didn't take pics of assembly lube application. Used Brad Penn assembly lube.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388109155.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388109204.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388109285.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388109337.jpg

Looks great. Grats on sealing the case. Pucker factor huh :)

The Threebond cleans up very easily on the sealing surfaces. So if its going to bug you, I wouldn't hesitate resealing it. But honestly you should be OK. The Threebond seals good and does not have the deadline for curing like 574. You simply spread it on thin & evenly, let sit for at least a minute, then join the parts. And your timing on the 574 isn't as critical on the main webs in terms of actual sealing. Those aren't an absolute must to be sealed, as they're internal to the case. The 574 sealant used there is just extra bonding on the web faces to hold them together.

Thanks for the response, Kevin.
Not sure about it. I didn' t have a confident feeling about it due to all the drama and nerves.
I think taking what I learned and just applying it. I want to be more confident in the case sealing beforr I do anymore work to the motor. Someone else advised there looks like to much squeeze out.

Any special precautions removing Threebond? Worried about Threebond debris in oil passages.

Looks like assembly will be on hold for a while. :(

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388199189.jpg

Gouged bearing boss just in front of the bearing with stud. Not sure what to do.

Wet-sand it off until smooth. No big deal. Try not to do it again... you'll start running out of material.

So, disassembled everything. Cleaned up case halves. Just need to clean studs where some of the TB wicked up. Checked my torques with beam torque wrench. Most were dead on, but a few were not. Probably from not getting full turn to reach torque value. O-rings on side I chamfered looked great, except for one that was completely shredded. Made new holding fixtures. Chain holder was slightly too wide. A practice dry run would've found this out.

What is the consensus on installing through bolts without O-rings and coming back later and installing O-rings one at a time?

That's how I would do it.

I would also consider a hoist to control the lowering of the case half precisely if it's giving you a hard time.

Really interesting, subscribed.

I used coat hangers bent to shape for holding the con rods and cam chain up in the air. Pretty easy to make. Once the rods and chain are positioned, paint the sealant on the perimeter then the 574 to the webs. The case half that has the #8 nose bearing locater pin is the bottom half bolted to the stand. I have the top half ready on the bench. For me, a hoist of some sort would get in the way. Besides, the upper case half just doesn't weigh much.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388511294.jpg

Little bummed. Went to check piston squirters after cleaning everything up and getting ready to assemble case again this weekend, found only #2 shooting. Put compressed air through them and Sea Foam spray. Had Ollie's clean and check them. Got case off stand and put back in shipping box. Going back to Ollie's. At least maybe George or Ike can clean up the case in front of the intermediate shaft bearing and check bearing clearances.

How long can I leave the crank vertical with rods attached? Any harm in leaving rods on crank like that? Don't really want to disassemble it and buy another set of rod bolts.

As long as they're oiled... I would say about 15,000 years.

What method are using to get compressed air to the squirters?

@ lindy, just rubber tipped nozzle into left side case piston squirter passages about 100 psi. Hard to get a good seal on it. Called George this morning at Ollie's. He said they tested them before and after hot tanking and that in his opinion people worry too much about piston squirters. He advised that once hydraulic pressure hits the back of the ball, they will open.
Not sure, just wish I had a better feeling about them. Afraid to stick anything through the passage for fear of damaging something. George has 40 yrs experience with these engines so, I inclined to let it go. Just bothers me that #2 is spraying so easily. Maybe #2 is stuck open and 1 and 3 stuck shut.

Trying to think of anything I might have done to clog them. I've been super protective of all the oil passages. Had Ollie's remove all the case plugs and clean. Right now I've got the passages filled with PB Blaster and I'll try again tonight.