Gordo's 3.2L Engine Rebuild - Ready to Reassemble
 

My engine rebuild project initiated when I first purchased my car in 2003 - or a least in my head.

Since that time I have been researching, selecting parts, buying a few used parts and more researching.

I research everything... I think by the time I get the engine back together I will have spent over 2 hours of research per engine part (blue vs. green, sealants, nuts, bolts, washers... - I mean every part :p ). The Pelican Parts BBS has been an incredible resource.

In 2009 I bought a second engine to rebuild (car really; but bought it for the engine & sold the remaining Cabriolet roller to my brother, Pelican "Cabmando" who's now driving the car). I wanted to take my time with the rebuild and didn't want my car down that long. In hindsight - it has been a good decision.


This summer I finally disassembled the engine and began the lengthy process of parts cleaning and sending parts off for machine shop work.

So... after that winded introduction - I'm now to the point to where I am ready to start reassembling my engine. Here's a shot at a few of the parts going into it:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386474189.jpg

Fun (but expensive & time consuming) stuff so far - hoping to have the engine in and running by spring.

Will update photo's as it comes together.

Gordo
Gordo

Nice pile of stuff Gordo.
I'm just in the final stages of my 3.2 rebuild.
Have fun with your assembly.

Case Cleaning
 

Info on case cleaning:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/786093-case-cleaning-more-case-cleaning.html

Meant add to this thread - but the carb cleaner must have gave me a buzz ;)

Hit new post instead of reply...

Gordo

Nice....

The feeling of turning the key for the first time on a new engine is (for me) better than sex (please don't tell my wife!).
The sound, vibration into your body, and smells to your nose .... almost indiscribeable.
I wish everyone could have that feeling at least once in their life.
And...the BIG thrill....driving down the road ...knowing it's all yours...knowing every moving part...Wundebar!!
Bob

The part my brother left out was, what inspired him to get to work on his engine was coming home and driving my car. He couldn't stand the thought of my car being faster :) Truth be told, I owe him a lot because without him selling me my Cab for a very brotherly price, I wouldn't be driving a 911 today. Get it together and you know I'll be there for the install.

Don't let that cam roll off onto the floor! :D they don't bounce too good.

Crankshaft and Connecting Rod Cleaning & Prep
 

Ever see a grown man cry - that would have done it (no worries, I made the workbench with the black facing slightly raised above the worktop level to avoid such travesties). Your own GT2-102 grind - long overdue to be run.

Slow going due to lack of TIME... While I'm not wrenching, I've been looking at micrometers - I almost purchased a used set of Mitutoyo 103's but realized the set I was going to buy had a resolution of .01mm - understand I want .001mm's. The tool search is just procrastination - I will probably end up picking up a set at HF to give me a final sanity check on the crankshaft journal sizes.

Meanwhile, I did get around to more cleaning - joy :rolleyes:

I detailed the crankshaft, spraying each oil hole with carb cleaner and blasting with the air compressor. Followed this by cleaning the surfaces with Kimwipes that were wet with isopropyl alcohol. The crankshaft is cleaned and ready for final measurements and rod installation:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387769503.jpg

I also pulled the old seal out of the number 8 bearing - it fought me, but I won (jammed a flathead screwdriver into it):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387769635.jpg

Lastly I cleaned and prepared the connecting rods. The machinist pin-fit the JE pins to the small ends, rebored the big ends and balanced each. They all came out to 1lb 8.4oz on my scale (doubles as a barley and hop scale...).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387769838.jpg

I also measured each ARP rod bolt. The machinist used these when he bored the big end; wish I would have measured before their first torque (he torqued to 50ftlb for boring). Don't have the measurements handy but I think they all came in at 67.90mm (give or take a hundredth).

Shot of one of the rods with ends ground for balancing:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387770111.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387770162.jpg

Additionally, I sealed up all of the galley plugs on the case with Loctite 9340 (JB Weld equivalent that I received in my Supertec sealant kit). I spread it with a chemical brush - need a better solution when I do the case mating surfaces; it drops bristles/hairs:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387770337.jpg

Finally, I familiarized myself with the Summit Racing rod stretch gauge that I purchased:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387770417.jpg

Looking forward to the holiday break to actually start assembling some stuff.

Gordo

That is a nice place to start. All clean and ready to assemble.
For those of you thinking about balancing your rods, weight on the bottom end (big end) should not be removed from the boss on the bottom. That boss is for strength not balancing. Weight should be removed from the corners near the the rod cap joint.
It is also preferable to make the grinding as smooth as possible to reduce the chances for cracks to form.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1387816764.jpg

Rod Balancing Material Removal
 

Henry,

I didn't really think much about removing material from the bottom of the rod caps - appeared this is where material is removed from most rods. Meanwhile, I have no doubt where you indicate is clearly better from a structural standpoint.

I was however somewhat surprised by the crude grinding appearance on the rods. My reference was this video that I found on rod balancing (great vid if you want to know how its done).

Connecting Rod Balancing - YouTube

The guy uses a belt sander and makes a smooth pass to remove material, which would produce a smooth finish as Henry suggests. Meanwhile, looks like my guy hit it with a bench grinder...

In spite of this, I think the machinist I used is good to go. He has pretty solid knowledge & experience with old VW engines - I guess he's just not sophisticated enough for the Porsche community ;).

When I picked them up, I really did feel like asking him "can you make the grind look purdy? :p

Thanks for the info Henri - good stuff to know before you go marching off to a machinist.

Gordo

Although John is a great guy (makes a pretty good chili as well) he missed the procedure for weighing Porsche rods.
We have seen rods in Porsche engines that are 9+ grams off. This amount is beyond the recommended amount for removal.
We always weigh the total rod weight first, then start with the balancing procedure.
This allows you to determine which rod weighs the least making it the last or "zero" rod.

Snail's Pace - Checked Connecting Rod Bearing Clearances
 

I checked the connecting rod bearing clearances using Plastigage today.

Posted the process in this thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/788681-checking-connecting-rod-bearing-clearances-plastigage.html

Adding the link to this thread for continuity purposes.

Gordo

Assembly Preparation Continues - ARP Rod Bolt Stretch Measurements
 

Updating this thread for continuity.

Today I measured my ARP rod bolts for semi - pre-stretch length:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388641339.jpg

Link to the separate thread addressing this step:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/789877-measuring-arp-rod-bolt-stretch-micrometer-vs-stretch-gauge.html

Note - hoping that linking to separate threads that allow in-depth discussions on various topics makes my rebuild process easier to follow. Probably turning out to be the opposite :rolleyes:

Gordo

Rod Bolts Installed to Stretch Length
 

Tonight I installed the rods on the crankshaft.

Here's the measurements I took:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388729954.jpg

I also did a review on the Summit Racing rod bolt stretch gauge that I used:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/789996-summit-racing-rod-bolt-stretch-gauge-review.html

And ran into a problem installing the number 8 bearing pulley seal:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/790027-pulley-seal-spring-number-8-bearing-came-loose-when-installing-crankshaft.html

Gordo

I'm maybe a couple months behind you on my 2.4T to E upgrade/rebuild. Thanks for the time to put this together. Subbed...

Update - Case Halves Are Mated
 

Today I went ahead and mated the case halves together - only a few minor glitches along the way.

For starters - I somehow forgot to apply sealant to the number 8 bearing o-ring prior to laying in the crankshaft and mounting the oil pump and intermediate shaft - Ooops. Since I had already bent the tabs on the oil pump nuts, I managed to remove the crankshaft, apply the sealant to the o-ring and reinstall while leaving the pump & intermediate shaft in place - it's possible, but not the preferred assembly method...

Possibly could have done without the sealant (Threebond 1211 from the Supertec sealant kit) - but figured I would kick myself if I hadn't and later sprung a leak.

I was also a bit concerned that the flywheel seal didn't look right (gapped at the top), but figured it would even out when I mated the case halves - it did:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388816817.jpg

I built some rod and cam chain holders out of a 8' length of 1 1/2" wide aluminum flat stock that I picked up at Lowes. I figured this would be easier than cutting up some strips of sheet metal as per Wayne's Engine Rebuild book:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388814797.jpg

I went ahead and prep'd everything - tools and stuff all laid out and ready on my cart:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388814965.jpg

I lubed up the case through bolt Viton o-rings with Dow 55 o-ring lube (o-rings and lube come in the Supertec sealant kit). I scrubbed a bit of the lube on the o-rings and in the areas where the washers and case are beveled - for good measure, there's plenty of lube to go around.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388815639.jpg

I applied what I thought was a reasonably good bead of Threebond 1184 to the case perimeter. Shortly after applying it, it spread out and I realized I was a bit too happy with the stuff:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388816195.jpg

No biggie - I was able to remove some of the excess with the toothbrush that I planned to use to spread the stuff out.

I went a bit easier on the Loctite 574 application to the bearing web surfaces:
This amount spread out to a nice even layer:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388816348.jpg

Everything's still cool at this point - now its time to mate the cases.

As I attempted to place the case on top of the other, I came to a sudden realization - the 1 1/2 wide aluminum stock material that I used to make the connecting rod and timing chain holders didn't fit through the case half :eek:

OK - now my hair's on fire. I grabbed my son (who should have been helping and learning in the first place - but he isn't interested - wait till he asks for the keys someday..). He came out and helped me manually feed the timing chain and connecting rods through the case. Again, not the preferred method - but it worked, crisis resolved.

And the outcome (with my favorite engine rebuild lubricant in the background)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388817032.jpg

And finally a recommended update to Wayne's awesome rebuild book - use something smaller than 1 1/2" wide material to make your connecting rod and timing chain holders with ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388818038.jpg

Getting there slowly.

Gordo

My rebuild is still a twinkle in my thoughts. (Maybe a couple of years from now..) Nice to watch yours though! Get em!

Sealing up that #8 was a wise move.

Hi gordo
how did you apply the Threebond sealant ?
Philippe

I'm following this. My '86 needs a rebuild and I'm hoping to get to it later this year.

Excellent job so far!

Love the colour commentary and pictures....my 3.4 build is still a ways away, but definitely this is the kind of encouragement that helps us do it yourselfers.

And Henry, thanks for the sage advice....always great to hear wise and thoughtful experience brought in a very helpful way....

Dennis

Threebond Application and ARP Rod Bolt Installation
 

Phillipe,

The Threebond sealants come with attachments that screw onto the tube. You can cut the attachments at various lengths to allow you to squeeze out a certain sized bead of sealant (like caulk):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388984649.jpg

The bottom attachment is the one that I cut to apply the Threebond 1184 to the case perimeter. The upper attachment is from the Threebond 1211 that I applied to the number 8 bearing o-ring seal (small cut off / small bead for a small part - worked well).

I would have been better off cutting off the 1184 attachment one notch longer (just below where the upper attachment is cut).

For the application - I took my time and ran a nice even bead (sized by the attachment cut) around the perimeter of the case. As I got to the end of the other side of the case I realized I went a little heavy. Looking back where I started I noticed that the Threebond 1184 flowed pretty easily/quickly - it already covered the entire case mating surface with thick puddle of sealant.

I realized I put down a bit too much sealant - so I removed some with the toothbrush (wiping the excess off the brush with a Kimwipe).

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

ARP Headstud Installation

On to bigger and better things, my headstuds are installed. Observations and lessons learned in the linked post:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/790482-arp-head-stud-installation-instructions-vs-reality.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388985305.jpg


Gordo

rebuild
 

gordo i like the rebuild along with the step by step, very cool and thanks wish you luck hope everything turns out fantastic. SmileWavy :D

Looks great Gordo - the photos to go with your stories are very useful for all to see.

A note on the DC55 grease you're using on the O-rings: it does reduce the tensile strength of the Viton rubber by about half. There are alternative greases available that maintain the strength of the ring which is most important where it contacts the bolt threads on the nut end.

Keep up the great work - looking forward to the final product and outcome!

They're normally taped to the inside of the box lid. Any love there or had you taken them off already?

Crankshaft Journal Measurements
 

A bit late/out of order with this post...

Used my micrometers to take these measurements before I installed the crankshaft.
Finally got around to transferring my scribbled notes to a file.

Journal measurement came out nice - well within spec.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1389155596.jpg

----------------------------------------

Note on Being Organized

I've been pretty good about keeping my engine disassembly neat and orderly - I must have bought $80 in various sized tupperware bins, ziplock bags and such to help keep things organized and clean (I kept my cleaned case halves and other large parts in huge bins...).

Meanwhile I wasn't as organized with the parts I ordered as they arrived - I seem to have lost my JE Piston pin circlips. Not a big expense, but meanwhile it stopped me in my tracks last weekend and killed ~ 3hrs or greater as I tore apart everything and everywhere they could possibly be (loosing stuff sends me on an obsessive tangent).

Stay thirsty and organized my friends.


Gordo

No Clue
 

Sorry Lapkritis,

Deleted my post that was previously before your question - which makes you look like a mind reader ;)

Taped inside - that's what the JE rep (via Pelican) told me. Don't remember seeing them though.

Kind of fuzzy - I bought the Stomski circlip insertion tool and watched a video on how to use it, so I have this clear picture in my head of the tool with a circlip in it (was it live or Memorex)?

I also provided the whole kit to my machinist (to pin fit & check weights). Called him - no joy.

Little parts like that could be anywhere... Will be ordering a new set and probably find them months later :rolleyes:

Gordo

Updates - CC'd Heads & Installed Pistons in Cylinders
 

Links to more of the rebuild steps added to this thread for continuity...

Today I measured the cylinder head, combustion chamber volume http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/792313-measuring-head-volume-ccs-compression-ratio.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390112896.jpg


And installed my pistons in the cylinders using the Wiseco tapered piston ring compressor sleeve:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390113002.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/792447-wiseco-tapered-piston-ring-compressor-review.html

Fun stuff...

Gordo

Dow 55 o-ring lubricant is specifically designed to lubricate o-ring during assembly, then after heating, chemically transform the o-ring. This chemical transformation causes an expansion of the o-ring (seal swell) increasing the pressure to create a more efficient seal. The other transformation is an increase in compression set/crush resistance extending the life of the o-ring.
This expansion and set/crush resistance is especially effective in case through bolt, cam end plates, oil return tubes and rocker shaft o-rings because they are static by nature.
The third positive effect of Dow 55 0-ring lubricate is the resistance to "oil wicking".
Oil wicking is the process where lubricants create a path around the o-ring by there very nature of combining with oils.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390153138.jpg

It's also important to remember that Dow 55 was originally designed and tested for use in military applications. Only after decades of testing was it released for civilian markets.

Tear resistance goes hand in hand with tensile strength. The o-ring tensions around the bolt threads even before you press down upon it with the nut and washer.

Nobody can explain why the loss of strength here is desired. Please explain why losing strength and tear resistance is a good idea over a sharp thread. I'm all ears.

O-Rings and Dow 55: Case Closed For
 

Although I hate to open this can of worms in this thread, I feel I must comment on the Henry and Lapkritis sideshow:

Gent's, I highly value both of your expertise and opinions - but this dead horse has already been beaten...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/452985-your-opinion-wanted-green-bolt-through-viton-o-rings-rtv-3.html#post7804562

For the purpose of this thread and my engine build - I researched and sided with Henry. As such:

Henry Schmidt Wins This Round http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif


If you wish to beat this horse further - by all means, step back in the ring on the o-ring thread and have at it ;)

Thanks guys,

Gordo

Deck Height, Piston to Head Clearance and Compression Ratioq
 

Back to the build...

Today, I measured my deck height, piston to head / combustion chamber clearance and came up with the final measurements needed to calculate my compression ratio.

Deck height measurement information can be found here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/792574-my-3-2l-deck-height-piston-head-clearance-measurements-compression-ratio.html#post7865354

In a nutshell:

Deck height came in at 1.03mm

Piston to head clearance came in at 2.04mm

The deck height, calculated with my other measurements and specs produces a compression ratio of 9.16:1.

The linked threads on measuring head volume and deck height provide the details on the measurement processes, calculations and considerations.

- Gordo

Progress - P&C's Heads & Cam Towers Installed
 

Today I installed my pistons & cylinders, heads and cam towers.

Pretty much by the book process (step by step as per Wayne's Engine Rebuild book), so nothing out of the ordinary to comment on.

First, a point out to the goodness of using the Stomski circlip injector: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/792754-stomski-circlip-injector-tool-review.html

A few notes on my progress and one gotcha.

----------------------------------------

I followed Henry's (Supertec) recommendation to use Curil-T between the base of the cylinder and the case.

Meanwhile, I wondered if the sealant is used simply to hold the base gasket in place as you install the cylinder or if it's recommended to help seal the surfaces.

I'm good with either rationale.

I assumed it was used to help seal the cylinder to case mating, therefor I applied a small bead to both sides of the base gasket before I installed it on the cylinder:

Curil-T bead on the cylinder base gasket:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390281444.jpg

A small amount of Curil-T squished out as I tightened down the Stomski cylinder holding nuts:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390281644.jpg
------------------------------

Here's the gotcha:

As I installed one of the cam towers, one of the washers dropped behind one of the valve springs. I had to remove the tower to get the washer back out. Kind of a PITA...

------------------------------

Finally, here's where things stand:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390281902.jpg

Good to see my shelves getting less cluttered.

Gordo

Enjoying your posts; thanks for the detail.

Wathing with popcorn :)

Where did you you get the chain and rod holder tools though?

Oheggem

He's the organized one of the brothers. The rest of us are a mess. :D
The nice thing about him doing this is he'll have no excuse not to help me do my rebuild if and when the time comes.

BTW, someone comment on his "keezer" setup that he's intentionally putting in the background or he'll just keep putting pictures of it in there until someone does.

Timing Chain and Connecting Rod Holders - What Not to Do
 

Response to Oheggem's question regarding my chain and rod holders:

Lengthy post with lots of words and cool pictures kind of hide the fact that my chain and rod holders looked good - but lacked an essential feature - functionality...

The keezer - now there's a functional tool :D

Gordo

That is funny. How did I miss that? I did the same thing first time around. Went out and bought 1" aluminum strip and made chain and 1 rod holder out of it. Worked great 2nd time. If only I'd put down the 1184 slightly thicker...

Really nice build! I love the clean. Here is my question: You actually have an accurate burette in your shop? Are you a chemist or into Chemistry? I have thought about one for a long time, but couldn't justify it in my tiny brain. Perhaps I should re-think that.

3.2L Head Volume CC / ML Measurements
 

I have a burette - but unfortunately I can't vouch for the accuracy (just yet).

My combustion chamber measurements came in at 92.4 ml/cc - appears most heads come in around 90 ml/cc or lower.

I figure one of 3 things is contributing to the difference:

(1) My burette is piss poor.

(2) The 90mm/cc standard is based upon the 3.0L heads and the 3.2L heads have a slightly larger combustion chamber

(3) My 3.2L heads are bigger than everyone else's - therefore better ;)

Would love to figure this out.

Gordo