Wiseco Tapered Piston Ring Compressor Review

[Gordo2]

Rebuilding a 3.2L engine and figured I would review a few of the new tools I've bought and used along the way.

Tonight I went ahead and installed my new 95mm JE pistons in the cylinders using the Wiseco tapered ring compressor sleeve.

Background

The Wiseco RCS09500 ring compressor cost $40 + shipping - a bit steep for a ring compressor, but less expensive than the ARP version.

I bought it after reading Wayne's Engine Rebuild book, warning of the potential of breaking rings and after reviewing a ton of threads discussing piston installations - some highly recommending using the tapered sleeve type ring compressor.

This coupled with the fact that I Love Tools, pushed me over the edge to buy a good ring compressor

Installation Process

I started out by orienting the pistons and cylinders as they would be installed - long fins on the cylinders facing down and pistons' exhaust valve reliefs facing down. I also re-checked the rings to make sure I installed them top side up, and oriented them in accordance with JE instructions to offset the ring gaps.



Inserting the pistons into the ring compressor was pretty easy, but did take a bit of finesse. The oil ring and top ring went in without a hitch, but second ring needed a bit of wiggling to get it started in the compressor:




Minor Dilemma - Insert the Pistons from the Top or Bottom of the Cylinders?

I scratched my head for a bit considering if I should insert the pistons from the bottom of the cylinders, or start them from the top. I decided to insert the pistons into the the top of the cylinders, although Wayne's book recommended inserting from the bottom.

I figured the top of the cylinders provided a better base to rest the Wiseco compressor on and it would also allow me to start the piston skirt into the cylinders to help guide it the rest of the way in. Additionally, inserting from the top made it very easy to visualize the correct orientation of the pistons and cylinders.

Here's a shot of a piston inserted into the ring compressor, with the piston skirt extending through the bottom:



I placed this on top of the cylinders and simply pressed the piston in - a no brainer.

It went so fast, I didn't even have time to take any happy snaps

Bottom Line / Recommendation

For $40, it doesn't get much easier than this. The tool is very solid - after all, it's nothing more than a tapered piece of pipe. As such, I think you could probably use the tool and resell it for slightly less than the purchase price.

Meanwhile, as stated above ("I Love Tools"), I think I will be holding onto mine.

Next up for review (but not tonight) - the Stomski piston circlip injector. Quick look report - it's slick.

Gordo

[r-mm]

I wish I found this before rebuilding mine. I paid a lot more than that for a good pliers type ring compressor. Getting the pistons in was the only hairy process during my top end. Resolved to buy a tapered compressor for every motor i build from here out.

[Henry Schmidt]

That looks like a pretty cool tool but I would recommend loading the piston from the bottom of the cylinder. Most cylinders have a chamfer at the bottom to ease in the installation. In the case of the Mahle 3.6 100mm, the cylinder has a tapered bore (smaller at the top) making it nearly impossible to install the piston from the top.

[Iciclehead]

I bought one a while back, haven't used it yet....the only logical answer for this problem if you ask me....

Dennis

[Gordo2]

For those who don't like to read directions -

I posted a short video of me installing a piston in the cylinder on YouTube:

Porsche 911 Engine Rebuild - Inserting Pistions in Cylinder Using Tapered Ring Compressor - YouTube

Enjoy,

Gordo

[KTL]

I agree they work great. Very smooth installation. Just need to use a good swab of oil in the ring, on the piston rings themselves and in the cylinder. Piston slides right in.

[Heinz911]

Gordo, I always asumed that the gap in the oilring should be directed to the top of the cylinder. Keeps the oil from getting in the cylinder when the car is not used for a while.

Thanks for the demo, tool is great!

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by Heinz911

Gordo, I always asumed that the gap in the oilring should be directed to the top of the cylinder. Keeps the oil from getting in the cylinder when the car is not used for a while.

Never considered that... The JE instructions just show a certain offset with no reference to the top or bottom of the piston.

Your assumption makes sense - and had I heard that one before, I would have went with it.

Thanks, Gordo

[TT Oversteer]

As Henry said, always load piston from the bottom due to chamfering at the bottom of the bore. I also tried to load from top thinking that the piston skirt would aid in locating and centering the piston in the cylinder and met with some resistance. Reluctant to use any force greater than a gentle push by hand I tried loading from the bottom and they all slid right in very easily. These are the little details that separate the amateur (me) from the pros! Luckily no damage to rings! Hand pressure only and never use force or rings will break... BTW this is a GREAT tool!