Stud removal update
 

So I have all of them out that I could screw out with a pipe wrench. Only one that wasn't broken is still in there. I will apply some heat and try to remove it tomorrow, then on to the broken ones.

One side
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403644522.jpg

And the other

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403644545.jpg

You will have fun with that lower, rear on Cyl2.

Do you have a welder? Try to TIG a bolt to it and then back it out. Dilvar is NO FUN to drill out. Lots of cussing involved.

Something like this.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/738532-dilvar-studs-almost-nightmare-replacement.html

Stud removal
 

Ok, got the last full bolt out with some heat. Could have sworn that I was going to twist it in half and snap it but I kept the heat to it and it finally broke loose. It squeaked loudly all the way out but I WON!!

Maybe tomorrow I will work on the six broken bolts. I am sure it will not be a walk in the park.

I will definitely bust out the welder for several of the broken studs.

Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions, keep them coming.

Fingers crossed for you with the broken studs!!!

Save one of the 'good' ones to use as a thread chaser, by cutting a vertical slot down its threads. Dont use a Tap as lots of old posts complain about Taps eating away some case thread resulting in new studs being wobbly in the case.

What type of new stud are you going to use?

I will probably go with either ARP or the Raceware. I need to do a little more homework before making a decision.

Head studs
 

Any preferences?

Last of the studs
 

So welded a nut onto the two studs that were short and I think the heat from the welder was a huge help because they came out without too much effort.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403742105.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403742124.jpg

Then onto the long ones. I had a greet idea, why not slip some old lug nuts over the shaft until I get to the top of the stud and then weld a nut to the end... Smart huh?

Didn't work! I had to use the good old pipe wrench to get the rest out.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403742241.jpg

So now they are all out!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403742264.jpg

Slag and loose crap
 

Now my fear

While welding stuff is flying everywhere. Using a pipe wrench scraped a lot of material from the threads. I would bet that although I plugged holes, some of that stuff made its way into the block. Is there a way to flush it out? Maybe spray brake cleaner or simple green into it with a pressure sprayer?

I am still debating splitting the case so I won't be hurt if that is the recommendation of the experts.

Great job & very satisfying to get all the broken studs out, without too much drama.

Then onto the long ones. I had a greet idea, why not slip some old lug nuts over the shaft until I get to the top of the stud and then weld a nut to the end... Smart huh?

Didn't work! I had to use the good old pipe wrench to get the rest out.

My lesson learnt from this is that HEAT is the key. I suppose the long one - with the Lug Nuts - had the heat applied too far up the stud to brake up the 'glue' in the case

Now I must go into my garage and find my old pipe wrench!!!!!

Although a pipe wrench may seem a bit more of a caveman's way of extracting the studs compared to some of the stud removal tools that I have seem people use.... It works. I only had to apply heat to one of the studs.

Head stud choice is easy: Supertec

I would recommend you split. The engine is filthy and you really don't want the cost of tuition for a failed bearing. I suspect as you do that there will be at least some gunk that found a way in. Hindsight is 20/20 but if there is a next time then clean the engine thoroughly before opening the valve covers/breathers. Pressure washer, WD40, carb/brake clean/mineral spirits/3 rolls of paper towels, a few different brush types and scrapers... ideally, you shouldn't be able to find a single grain of sand on the engine before you start tearing into it.

You can use solo cups to have a beer and also to cover the cylinder holes in the case even with the rods in place (keeps debris and parts from falling in) and paper towels to fill the smaller orifices.

As for head studs - I would second the motion for Supertec although many options are viable. I like the ARP for the easy start top, sanitary packaging and the work space mat that comes in the box.

Split the case
 

Thanks for the replies.

I think I am going to bite the bullet and split the case. The motor is for my 1970 T and I only want to mess with this engine one time and then be done. It would be frustrating to put it together just to see a bearing fail because there was a piece of trash in it.

I will definitely be looking for some assistance on putting it back together. Maybe a local Pelican can stop by or I will bring it to someone for help once the time comes to mate the two halves.

Well, I guess on to part II

Split the case
 

Had a heck of a time splitting the case. I forgot to remove this piece!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404001006.jpg

Pulled the remaining pistons

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404001039.jpg

Them popped it apart

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404001061.jpg

Next step is new rod and main bearings.

That little cover that you broke is notorious for leaking ( as are the crank seals above it!).
When you get a replacement one, make sure it is dead flat before installing it.

You are now going to have a lot of reading/research on case sealing choices. :confused:

Continue to take lots of photos; I will be interested to see your findings on bearing & crank wear: if any - as its a 3.0L.

Peter in Melb.

Cover
 

Luckily I didn't break that cover. I made sure not to put too much pressure on the engine as I was separating the block halves. When it didn't come apart with light prying I looked closely for hidden bolts or other obstructions.

Great thread really enjoying this keep up the good work

Junk in the block
 

Well, looks like it was a good thing that I split the case. Lots of stuff hanging around the bottom.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404081602.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404081614.jpg

Bearings
 

Looks like original bearings 930.132.02 STD bearings marked 1981.

The look good but after 33 years of service I am going to retire them for a new set.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404081728.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404081751.jpg

Nice work tom.

I am right behind you in my rebuild. Am on vacation but of course staying current and learning.
Getting ready for the engine split myself. I am also concerned about being sure the case does not leak after assembly. If I come across the "gold" standard for preventing leaks I will be sure and share.
Gary

I would recommend holding onto those stock bearings in good condition until the engine is together and running - seems it can be a challenge to find suitable aftermarket quality.

I am not throwing anything away until the build is complete. Everything that I have removed has been bagged and tagged.

What is wrong with the bearings offered by our host?

Concern about quality of Glyco rod bearings
 

There has been a lot of recent discussion on the Forum about the quality of Glyco rod bearings. Seems to be a new development where standards have fallen off.
Look for this thread which has good photos.

Glyco rod bearing wear

How may miles had your 3.0L motor done? Amazing engines for a sports car!

And how did your crank measure up - do you have any grooves from oil seal wear?

Supposedly it was a 65,000 mile roll over.

I haven't done anything with the crank yet.

There are no grooves at all from the seals

Tomorrow, pressure wash and completely clean engine. Look for before and after pix.

Before pictures
 

Here is what it looked like prior to pressure washinghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485641.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485659.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485675.jpg

After pictures
 

I used an old dryer brush used to clean lint from a dryer to clean out all of the holes. It worked like a champ. I then pressure washed and scrubbed with a Scotch Bright with some dish liquid. It came out ok but I will follow up with some long Q-tips to reach those out of the way places.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485915.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485930.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485946.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485960.jpg

Next step
 

So, a bit more cleaning of the block. Once I am happy with it I will install new main bearings. Since I don't own the tools needed to measure the crank and the bearings I will use plasti-gauge. Some homework is needed to see how thus is done so time for some reading.

If anyone has done this and can share their experience please chime in.

Used plastigage many times over the years. There are no tricks, really, to using it. Everything has to be completely dry and clean (no oil on crank journals), and you have to ensure that you don't turn the crank or you will smear the little plastigage rope. Make sure that there aren't any burrs or nicks on the main bearing webs or any of the machined surfaces before you assemble.

I have used it in the past too but not on a Porsche engine where the case is the cap. Do I have to torque the entire case down to do it or just the bolts that surround the mains?

Amstaff, good question! Perhaps someone who has done many Porsche engine builds has tried it both with and without the perimeter bolts. My sense is that you will get good readings with just the main through bolts torqued, but maybe somebody knows differently.

Pistons and cylinders
 

Well, today was piston and cylinder day. I bought walnut shell blast and used my handy dandy blasting cabinet and cleaned them. They weren't really bad so they came clean pretty quickly. Once cleaned I scrubbed them with dish liquid and a scrub brush. When I cleaned the pistons I pulled all of rings off, cleaned the ring groove, inspected the rings and reinstalled them. I still have to tear down, inspect and clean the heads and then I will empty the cabinet of the walnut and change to sand to do the hard parts.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405267667.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405267688.jpg

I decided to have the rods done so they will be sent out sometime in the near future.

Next weekend, heads!

Sub'd

Rods
 

Well, I know this is kind of slow but I pulled all of the rods and bagged them with the old bearings and the wrist pins. Now to find a shop to recondition them.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406242800.jpg

Crank
 

The crank is now bare of rods. The journals look good. For my own reference as the crank stands up with all of the rods pointing at me the numbers on the rods are on the right hand side.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406243775.jpg

The crank will also make it to the shop for a checkup.

I hear good things about JB Racing in Tavares. I will start there.

Plastigage Experience
 

Ooo - I can help with that one...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/788681-checking-connecting-rod-bearing-clearances-plastigage.html

I checked the rods and mains with Plastigage

Feel free to comment on the above thread if you have any recommendations to assist the instructions/process.

Good luck,

Gordo

Cleaning and more cleaning
 

Well, I figured out why a rebuild at a shop is so expensive. It takes a ton of hours just to clean everything!

Today I got a few pieces cleaned up but there is still a lot to go.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406392498.jpg

Shroud repaint
 

The shroud got a good repaint today. I used Krylon engine paint which I have used before. It works great and sticks like glue

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406392801.jpg

Nice job