Rookie 3.0 rebuild
 

Well, I hope that this thread will both help someone unfamiliar with a Porsche 3.0 and serve as a reference for me when I forget how something goes back together.

I should start by thanking my brothers Gunther and Johann (you can tell we have a German background). My brother Gunther gave up racing and made me a killer deal on his 911 wide body along with all of his tools and spare parts. My brother Johann who is now could no longer work on his dream car, a 1970 911 T basically gave it to me for a song and a dance. This car will be my retirement restoration car. So now I have bug and I am trying to learn as much as I can about 911's.

Anyway, here it goes.

So, it all started with me pulling the engine to fix a few oil leaks. I am pretty good mechanically and have rebuild many big and small block Chevys in my time. I get the motor on the stand and as I rotate it I hear "clink, clink". Pull the top valve cover and nothing, pull the bottom and there lies 4 broken head bolts on the right bank and two on the left.

This forces my rebuild where I plan to pull the pistons and cylinders, have them checked and redone as necessary. Send the distributor off to have it recurred for carbs and install 964 cams. Then Install new rings and gaskets and along with a good cleanup of all of the parts get her back together and hopefully running smoothly.

So here is where I started...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403219566.jpg

Now I am pulling it apart. Started by pulling the chain cover and breaking the cam loose.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403219672.jpg

I kept all of the parts that came from the cam and strap tied them all together so that I would not forget their order.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403219720.jpg

Then pulled the tensioner, it wasn't that difficult but with the amount of pressure on it I am sure it will be a lot harder to reinstall.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403219796.jpg

The I began loosening the rocker arm shafts to remove the pins. It is 8mm on one end and 5mm on the other. Cylinders 4 and 5 had the 8mm facing the rear of the car and number 6 was facing the front. Not sure why but I will make sure they go back that way
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403219959.jpg

That's all I have time for today but look for regular updates.

Have fun. Keep the pictures coming.

So, it's a pain to unscrew the rocker shafts so I went to Harbor Freight and bought a set of Allen wrenches with the the ball driver. So much easier!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403367282.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403367301.jpg

Also, I am making use to bag and tag everything that comes off the motorhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403367407.jpg

And then into bigger bags for each section of the engine just to keep everything organizedhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403367623.jpg

I should have mentioned earlier to block the oil tubes so that nothing falls into the motorhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403367690.jpg

Tomorrow intake rockers come off, cam and maybe head and cylinders

While pulling the rocker shafts I noticed that number 4 intake bolt was kind of rusty. Any ideas what would cause this?

Picture attached

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403372399.jpg

I couldn't leave it alone so I pulled the camshafthttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403382140.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403382159.jpg

Any idea how to tell if these are stock cams?

Chain guide pried off fairly easilyhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403382287.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403382303.jpg

This magnet seems to be my best friend. I am sure it has saved me from dropping nuts and washers everywherehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403382463.jpg

Pulled all of the 13mm head bolts and washers but don't forget these nutshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403382535.jpg

With those last three nuts removed the head came off with minimal effort. Just a few taps with a dead blow hammer (small one)http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403382656.jpg

Hopefully the cylinders will come off tomorrow so I can see how bad the head studs are

What is the number stamped into the sprocket end of the cam?

Actually, you removed the cam tower. The heads are still installed and under them you will find the cylinders.

The sprocket number is 901 105 546 02

You are correct, cam tower.

So I am back at it. I just can't stop as I am close to finishing the tear down.

Started by numbering the heads ( got it right this time)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403386878.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403386893.jpg

Tried to loosen one of the head bolts but it was rounded off so I made this from a hex bit one size larger. A few quick taps with a hammer to seat it and it came right outhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403387022.jpg

A few pix of the air deflectors for reference.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403387095.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403387108.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403387125.jpg

So here are the culprits. Hopefully they all are above the case.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403387263.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403387274.jpg

Numbered the cylinders after pulling them outhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403387377.jpg

Ok, here is what I have on the left side. I think I have a good shot at getting these out.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403387403.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403387416.jpg

The oil cooler will have to come off to give me some room to work.

Sorry, I meant the number on the end of the cam.

Ok, so here are some questions. Again, assuming that this is indeed a 65,000 mile engine I believe I can reuse most of the parts. I am going to update to 964 cams since they are out. Not looking for a race motor just a few extra HP.

Should install new rings?

I was planning to pull the heads apart, clean and reassemble. Should I do anything else to them?

Should I crack the case and reseal it? I don't think it was leaking or if it was it wasn't bad. I just keep thinking that I have already gone this far so why not?

What else should I look at or do?

The cam number is 930 14808

The number on the shaft of the cam is 930 105 1487 R

Thanks for the helpful Photos
 

TIM
Many thanks for the great Photos, as I know they will help when I replace my 3.0L headstuds. :)

I am also thinking about 964 cams so I will be watching your rebuild with special interest.
Peter in Melb.

Thanks Peter, I will post lots of mistakes so hopefully folks can avoid them when they take a crack at rebuilding theirs.

Looking closely at the heads and cylinders and they look nice. Just looking at 4, 5 and 6 the cylinders ridge ( where the rings don't reach the top of the cylinder) is very light. Not even enough to feel as you slid your finger nail up the cylinder. Also the heads are pretty clean inside and the valves have minimal to no carbon buildup.

I am not familiar with Porsche cylinder ridges but to me it would indicate that this is indeed a low milage engine.

Would anyone agree or disagree?

You dont get ring ridges on the 911 cylinders.
Bruce

Back to my questions. Again, assuming that this is indeed a 65,000 mile engine I believe I can reuse most of the parts. I am going to update to 964 cams since they are out. Not looking for a race motor just a few extra HP.

Should install new rings?

I was planning to pull the heads apart, clean and reassemble. Should I do anything else to them?

Should I crack the case and reseal it? I don't think it was leaking or if it was it wasn't bad. I just keep thinking that I have already gone this far so why not?

What else should I look at or do?

You can remove the rods without splitting the case. Why not remove them, and that will give you an opportunity to examine the rod bearings and the crankshaft journals. If everything looks perfect, you may not feel the need to go any further. On the other hand, if you see wear, you may want to go ahead and split the case.

A few extra things to consider:
Get the heads inspected, the 3.2L motors have a reputation for wear in the soft valve guides, the 3.0L motors not so much - but its easier to fix up any issues now.

If you dont have oil fed timing chain tensioners, think about getting them or at least get the little safety locks which fit on the spring tensioners. These hold the pressure pin up if the internal springs fail.

If re-ringing, there is a technique for lightly scrubbing the Alusil bores of your cylinders (do not hone) & there are heaps of threads about it.

Regarding splitting the case - you will find lots of threads on this too. Do all the conrod bearings feel the same (especially #5 )? If the motor had no evidence of leaking at the front & rear seals, I would be tempted to leave it be. Leaking after a crankcase rebuilt seems to be a common complaint. But let the experienced people advise you on this.

New rings
 

After reading a lot on the Alusil cylinders I am opting not to change the rings. I had no smoke and no real oil use so I am just going to clean the cylinders up and reinstall with the old rings

Studs
 

Pulled the right side today and have a few studs broken off kind of close but I feel like I can get the outhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403456562.jpg

Broken studs
 

These are the only two on the right hand side.

I am going to pull the ones not broken first and then attend to the smaller ones. That should give me more room to work on the shorties.

Pulling studs
 

I poked a shop towel over the stud to catch any metal shavings that might come off while extracting the stud. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403462503.jpg

Then I selected a small pipe wrench and they unscrew without a whole lot of trouble. The reason that I selected a small pipe wrench is that I can get a feel for how tight it is. If it isn't coming loose I will stop and apply heat. So far 8 studs out and no problems.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1403462672.jpg

Once out I CAREFULLY pull the towel off and wipe the hole off. Once that side is done I will vacuum all of the holes out thoroughly.

Thanks for the pics. My son and I used that kind of magnet to pull a wrist pin cir clip out of the motor. We covered all the holes but it still managed to sneak past the Saran Wrap. Doh!
I'm getting ready to install the heads and cam towers. Cheers.

Thanks for the pics. I took pics and marked all if the tin but I sandblasted the marks off and painted the tin. I used this as a quick reference vs. going to my pics.SmileWavy

If you send your cylinders out to be cleaned, mark them more permanently. The shop may "clean away" your markings. Ask me how I know. Doh!