Rods
 

I did a lot of research and opted to go with ARP rod bolts. Spent some time on the phone with the guys at JB Racing in Tavares Florida and decided to have them recondition my rods. They were packaged up today and shipped to them. Looking forward to my follow up call once they inspect them. Look for pix when they come back.

Good idea is to get the cooler cleaned done by someone with an ultrasonic cleaner,reason I asked is that your motor is very low mileage and most likely has suffered for that reason,slow runs to the shops to buy the a ice cream,etc or just limited warm -ups due to short runs,your cooler will most likely have oil vanish on the inside of the tubes best to get that out for a modest cost.
People call these air cooled motors but the real cooling is done by oil cooler,thats the key point.
Good luck with your build :).

Good point porsche tub. I will have to hunt down someone in my area to do it.

Here's where sent mine, if you wanted to use them the work you get back will be worth whatever it is that you spend plus your shipping. Full tank submerge, pressure test and cleaning. Here's what you get back.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/17/7e8a2egy.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/17/da4ududu.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/17/y9u8u3y7.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/17/3yje6uba.jpg

http://www.loopersc.com/index.php

Good luck in whatever you decide

Thanks for the advise Mike. Since you had a good experience with them I think I will send mine that way. Can you tell me what the cost was?

P&c
 

Today I mated the pistons and cylinders. My ring compressor worked great. Note that it has bands at the bottom which should be positioned where the piston goes into the cylinder.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408316771.jpg

I positioned the piston so that it stuck out a little so that it would go into the cylinder
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408316860.jpg

Them put the head of the piston in the cylinder. I lightly tapped the top of the ring compressor to make sure it was flat on the cylinder. Then tap the piston into the cylinder with the wooden handle of a hammer.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408317059.jpg

All done!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1408317131.jpg

Tom, I spent $148 to have that done. They turned it around and was delivered back to me at the dealership I work at within 1 day. I have used these guys for years, when I worked for LandRover back in the 90's there was an interglactic back order for radiators and those things were taking a dump left and right. These guys were able to handle everything I could send them, kept my loaner cars to within two days use while my customer's cars were down and saved my people a ton of cash on rebuilding the radiators as opposed to replacement.
So when I pulled the cooler off my engine, the first place I thought to send it was Looper Servicenter. When I get my car back from the bodyshop, I will pull the front one and send it there for the same treatment.

Yes thats the way to do it ,when I was doing up T1 motors years ago we didn't have ultrasonic cleaners so it was the cooler in a parts washer or fuel in a tray and re-wash again and again,remember it being amazing what came out:eek::eek::eek:.
A lot of people bypass this job .......why:confused:

Rods
 

Rods are back from JB Racing in Tavares Florida. They look great!
Cleaned and bead blasted
ARP bolts installed
Resized big end
Polished wrist pins
New small end bushings
Back drilled oil holes
Pin fit bushings

As soon as bearings, case gaskets and chains get here I will be able to start on the short block.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409170342.jpg

rods look great
 

Very good result.

I am surprised you had to replace the small end bushes with new on your 'young' engine.
Was it done because it was needed, or as insurance because it could be done easily at this stage?

Also, did JB Racing require the big-end shells to resize the big-ends?

I have bought a set of ARP bolts & a spare set of Rods - I just hope they come out as good as yours!

Pete 78 3.0 SC

Rods
 

The small end bushings were replaced because I scuffed one up taking it out. I was told it is common to redo the big end when you put ARP rod bolts in. Not sure why but when I know JB Racing is a highly recommended shop that builds a lot of Porsche engines so when they made recommendations I listened.

They did turn out really nice!

Rods
 

If by shells you mean bearings to redo the big end, no they did not need them. They were taken back to specs.

Prep work
 

So I found this spot in the block and after some investigation I found it is fairly common.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409429387.jpg

The fix?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409429411.jpg

After picture
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409429523.jpg

Plugs
 

Next step is to seal the blocks plugs
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409429698.jpg

A bit of scrubbing with a wire brush and then covered with JB Weld

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409429756.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409429770.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409429821.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409429834.jpg

Parts
 

I got most of what I need to get the short block put together.

Rod and main bearings, intermediate shaft bearings, both chains and the case gasket set. Once the crank is back from being polished I will start assembly.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409429984.jpg

More cleaning
 

Well, another hour or so cleaning, another 50 Q-Tips a can of brake cleaner and the case is a little cleaner.

I just have to remember the words of the Master " Patience Grasshopper"

Although I would like to see more progress I have to remember to take my time!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409786607.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409786713.jpg

It started to sprinkle a little (for Florida) so I called it a day.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409786793.jpg

lookin good
 

take your time these projects are a test in patience I'm currently doin a 3.0 twin plug motor heres some picshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409921225.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409921283.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409921328.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409921355.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409921373.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409921397.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409921419.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409921462.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409921498.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1409921514.jpg

Looks good! I am trying to resist building the engine too hot to drive around town as a cruiser. I kicked around twin plug, higher compression, wilder cams but I am trying to stick to 9.3 compression, single plug, good valve job, MSD and 964 cams. That should provide plenty of power for the street and yet a good reliable car that I can drive anywhere.

Question for you. Do you soak your new chains in oil before installing or did you just clean them and put them in dry?

Hi Tom... I'm rebuilding a 1986 Carrera and noticed that there is some metal missing in the same spot as depicted in your pic where you used JB Weld to patch...sounds like you did some research on this...what causes this? I'm hesitant to put JB Weld on the inside of the case as I'm not sure how well it will continue to adhere given the heat and oil that the JB Weld will be exposed to.

Bad spot in case
 

I have seen this defect several times in this forum. My understanding is that it should not leak but to be positive clean it thoroughly with a small wire brush then clean it with brake cleaner, let it dry and then apply a smooth coating of JB Weld. That seems to be the fix that everyone recommends so I don't see there being an issue with it coming off.

Cleaning head stud threads
 

Well, today I cleaned the head stud threads. I took an old head stud, cut some slots in it to catch the nasty stuff in the threads.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1410635500.jpg

Then I squared off the other end to fit it into the handle for my tap.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1410635567.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1410635588.jpg

It worked perfect!

Nice method, I'm going to borrow it ;)

Did a lot of bad stuff come out?

Head stud threads
 

Sure did, lots of junk came out of the hole. As you run the "tap" down the hole you break up all the old Locktite. Some metal came out but it was mostly Locktite.

Great thread. I'd like to do one someday.

Still at it
 

I know I am really slow but one thing I have learned is that building the engine takes time and you really need to be patient. Everything is ready to go to get the short block together. I just need to have the crank polished and I am ready to put the case back together.

I recently got a pair of 964 cams, plastigage and more sealant.

Hope to get an update soon with the short block going together.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1413585909.jpg

More goodies are here. New chain ramps and although I have already installed the old rings I have decided to attempt to hone my cylinders and install new rings. My crank goes to JB Racing Tuesday for polishing so I should be assembling the short block next weekend.

Parts
 

Oil pump and chain rails
 

Installed the oil pump today. Also installed the two chain rails on the right hand side of the block. Long side goes toward the gears and the lonely brown ramp goes on the bottom right hand side nearest to the crankshaft. I opted to mark my bolts with a dab of red paint so that I know which bolts are torqued and which are not.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414356530.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414356584.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414356668.jpg

Hope installing the pump doesn't interfere with plastigaging the crank.

This is a great post! I maybe purchasing a 81' this weekend, the owner mentioned a knock, so not sure what is wrong but know it'll have to be cheap if engine work is needed. Thanks!

Crank
 

Crank was polished by Jim at JB Racing today. Miked it and said it looked excellent. A quick polish and it is ready to go. Lots of work still to do. Crank needs to be cleaned, plastigage the mains then rods and it should be ready for at least the short block assembly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414537235.jpg

Time to check with plastigage
 

Installed all of the bearings and checked crank clearance with plastigage. All mains checked in right around 3 thousandths.

Next will be checking the rods to the crank. Still haven't figured out how to hold the rod still while tightening the bolt.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414969930.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414969961.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414970003.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414970031.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1414970056.jpg

Plastigage Rod Clearances
 

Here's how I went about it http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/788681-checking-connecting-rod-bearing-clearances-plastigage.html

Looking good.

Gordo

Thanks Gordon. I am going to attack it tomorrow evening

Well, planned on checking rods to crank tonight but guess what? No 12 point 13mm socket. Off to HF tomorrow!

Great guys at JB Racing!!

Todd

Got the 12 mm socket and ready to go but guess what? The rod bearings were the wrong size. They will be sent back Monday for replacement.

I guess this is where the patience part comes in.

Patience grasshopper

Rods to crank
 

Started with the bottom one working my way up

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416086882.jpg

Rods
 

Checked them all with a stretch gauge but it worked horribly wobbling all over and it wouldn't stay on without holding it so I dropped back and punted using the torque method. Burnished the threads by torquing them three time. I also used the ARP lube.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416087303.jpg

Rods to crank
 

So, got them all installed. Next step... Short block assembly.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416087447.jpg

Made sure all of the rod numbers were matched correctly and that they were all on the same side.