I would recommend holding onto those stock bearings in good condition until the engine is together and running - seems it can be a challenge to find suitable aftermarket quality.

I am not throwing anything away until the build is complete. Everything that I have removed has been bagged and tagged.

What is wrong with the bearings offered by our host?

Concern about quality of Glyco rod bearings
 

There has been a lot of recent discussion on the Forum about the quality of Glyco rod bearings. Seems to be a new development where standards have fallen off.
Look for this thread which has good photos.

Glyco rod bearing wear

How may miles had your 3.0L motor done? Amazing engines for a sports car!

And how did your crank measure up - do you have any grooves from oil seal wear?

Supposedly it was a 65,000 mile roll over.

I haven't done anything with the crank yet.

There are no grooves at all from the seals

Tomorrow, pressure wash and completely clean engine. Look for before and after pix.

Before pictures
 

Here is what it looked like prior to pressure washinghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485641.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485659.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485675.jpg

After pictures
 

I used an old dryer brush used to clean lint from a dryer to clean out all of the holes. It worked like a champ. I then pressure washed and scrubbed with a Scotch Bright with some dish liquid. It came out ok but I will follow up with some long Q-tips to reach those out of the way places.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485915.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485930.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485946.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1404485960.jpg

Next step
 

So, a bit more cleaning of the block. Once I am happy with it I will install new main bearings. Since I don't own the tools needed to measure the crank and the bearings I will use plasti-gauge. Some homework is needed to see how thus is done so time for some reading.

If anyone has done this and can share their experience please chime in.

Used plastigage many times over the years. There are no tricks, really, to using it. Everything has to be completely dry and clean (no oil on crank journals), and you have to ensure that you don't turn the crank or you will smear the little plastigage rope. Make sure that there aren't any burrs or nicks on the main bearing webs or any of the machined surfaces before you assemble.

I have used it in the past too but not on a Porsche engine where the case is the cap. Do I have to torque the entire case down to do it or just the bolts that surround the mains?

Amstaff, good question! Perhaps someone who has done many Porsche engine builds has tried it both with and without the perimeter bolts. My sense is that you will get good readings with just the main through bolts torqued, but maybe somebody knows differently.

Pistons and cylinders
 

Well, today was piston and cylinder day. I bought walnut shell blast and used my handy dandy blasting cabinet and cleaned them. They weren't really bad so they came clean pretty quickly. Once cleaned I scrubbed them with dish liquid and a scrub brush. When I cleaned the pistons I pulled all of rings off, cleaned the ring groove, inspected the rings and reinstalled them. I still have to tear down, inspect and clean the heads and then I will empty the cabinet of the walnut and change to sand to do the hard parts.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405267667.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1405267688.jpg

I decided to have the rods done so they will be sent out sometime in the near future.

Next weekend, heads!

Sub'd

Rods
 

Well, I know this is kind of slow but I pulled all of the rods and bagged them with the old bearings and the wrist pins. Now to find a shop to recondition them.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406242800.jpg

Crank
 

The crank is now bare of rods. The journals look good. For my own reference as the crank stands up with all of the rods pointing at me the numbers on the rods are on the right hand side.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406243775.jpg

The crank will also make it to the shop for a checkup.

I hear good things about JB Racing in Tavares. I will start there.

Plastigage Experience
 

Ooo - I can help with that one...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/788681-checking-connecting-rod-bearing-clearances-plastigage.html

I checked the rods and mains with Plastigage

Feel free to comment on the above thread if you have any recommendations to assist the instructions/process.

Good luck,

Gordo

Cleaning and more cleaning
 

Well, I figured out why a rebuild at a shop is so expensive. It takes a ton of hours just to clean everything!

Today I got a few pieces cleaned up but there is still a lot to go.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406392498.jpg

Shroud repaint
 

The shroud got a good repaint today. I used Krylon engine paint which I have used before. It works great and sticks like glue

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1406392801.jpg

Nice job