...DT50 is syn 15/50 oil...if u choose to use conventional oil use HR-1 which is their hot rod conventional 15/50 weight oil...just an fyi from an inside source i know...they have seen a Joe Gibbs race engine AFTER some very long NASCAR race...i think it was the Daytona 500 but dont hold me to that and the engine finished the race and when torn down after the race it spec'd out to less than 5% wear from new spec when the engine was assembled...do as u wish but this info along with other info convenienced me to change orvr to this oil a while ago...either will be fine but syn is better vs conventional oil...jmho...

I too love the JB additives. Have been using for a while, great stuff! But the DT50? 12 bucks a quart, ouch??

i realize & u r correct...i justify it as my clients do in that it is only a few dollars more than either mobil 1 or brad penn which i do not use any longer as they changed their additive pkg = way less zinc, or motul oil...as with everything in life, it is what it is...AND, i do not want for any of my clients cars or mine to have a pre me cam wear out and the collateral damage associated with that and the overall best protection for any engine...

What a great thread. Good job on the build!

Good info. However I was under the impression that the Sprint Cup cars are now running roller cams.....

could be gordon...= roller cams...
my oil suggestion info is also from many people at ln engr...

Guess I am going to have to investigate oils a bit more before filling her back up. Kind of delayed anyway since the stupid auto part s store sold me the wrong filter.

Dying to get her back on the road!

i would if i were u tom...
my feeling is that lubrication = oil used, is the single and #1 most important item when it comes to properly using an internal combustion engine...
many, many personal beliefs about oils, affordability, ect are attached to this subjuect...
if u want to research the subject, there was a thread on this subject...all in all, look at the data on how well the oil performed...
so u can narrow down the data, i suggest to keep your research related to porsche engines...
in so doing the research, u will come to find out that the "additive pkg" + the base oil type is what oil is all about and the data on each oil...porsche need hi zinc levels & other characteristics for the air cooled engines...blah blah blah...= Joe Gibbs Driven oils r the best available today...w/o a doubt...a bit pricey but they do the job...
good luck...

Ok, broke down and bought the Joe Gibbs Racing 15/50 conventional oil. It is a high zinc formula so it is really the best thing for a new engine. I didn't go with the synthetic but will change over once the engine is fully broken in.

great decision...your engine will thank you...
i even notice cars using this oil that when the valves are properly adjusted, they stay quieter longer... AND u have the piece of mind that u r doing/using the correct oil...
another step closer to getting her back on the road...)) bob

The oil isn't cheap but neither was the rebuild.

it is what it is..
i guess if u dont like the oil u can always change to a different oil afterwards...
dont know how well u know air cooled 911's, but u will see a difference if u have some experience with these type of engines...

I have very little experience with air cooled engines. I have a lot of experience with Cars having rebuilt too many small and big block GM engines to count.

I am learning a lot about air cooled engines and have a new appreciation for them after this rebuild.

Still a lot to learn and appreciate everyone that has chimed in with advise. I haven't always followed everyone's advise as I feel like everyone should do their homework and make decisions for themselves.

totally agree with what u just said = every one should do there own due diligence/homework...
u r doing great here...
carry on...))

Thanks Tweaks

Oil is ordered and should be delivered either at the end of this week or early next week. In the meantime I just made it to PGA Village in Port St. Lucie for a weekend of Golf and relaxation.��

Oil
 

Well, my oil came in Saturday.

Wouldn't you know it, Amazon sent me 5w-30 oil!

Dammit!

bummer on receiving the wrong oil...our host sells the joe gibbs oil also if u need a source...

I found it on Amazon for $8.91 per quart so I went there. New oil is on it's way so maybe I can go for a ride this weekend to break the rings in.

Oil is here!

Look for update tonight!

Got it all oiled up, pushed it out of the garage and prepared for a ride. Hopped in and no clutch or gas pedal. Guess I need to do just a tad more adjustment before I can drive it.

See you again Sunday!

Ok, that was easy. Clutch just needed to adjusted and the throttle came off at the bottom, both easy fixes.

So I took it for a ride and it ran really good. Carbs acted up a bit so I need to do some more work there.

Cost of Rebuild
 

I am sure I will miss something so I will add to it if I find something I missed.

964 Cams $300
ARP Headstuds $520
Super tech gasket set $305
ARP Rod bolts $275
Complete Rod rebuild $706
crank Polish $75
Chain Ramps $40
Rings $159
Rod Bearings $110
Main Bearings $200
Chains $92
Intermediate Bearings $22
Gasket set $66
3 angle Valve Job w/new springs, R-R spray bars and blast cam towers $1310
New motor mounts $100
Sealers $100+
Swepco tranny fluid $75
Tools $250
Oil $40 for break in
Oil $100 for first change
Misc bolts and nuts $100
Shipping parts $50

Total until I find something else $4,995

Let me know if there is something obviously missing.

Not bad for a do it yourself "Rookie Rebuild"

More tuning of the carbs and boy do they need help. Looks like a rebuild is in their future.

If the weather looks good I will drive it to work tomorrow.

Nice job! I'm right behind you

Where did you get your main bearings?

Feel free to contact me if you run into trouble or if just have a question.

Tom

Sprung a leak
 

Just a follow up

Suddenly developed a serious leak. Looked like it was coming from either the right chain housing or chain cover. Pulled the back bumper and warmed it up trying to find where it was coming from. Then noticed oil under the pressure sending unit. Pulled it and guess what? Steel washer against the block instead of an aluminum sealing washer. Found out by sticking a magnet to it.

New washers and BAM! No leak!

It is easy to mix them up in a gasket set so use your magnet and make sure you use the correct washers.

Sub....Great topic for a beginner

Had some help getting the Webers tuned and it runs perfect. Starts right up, idles great and runs smooth.

Can't wait to get a few miles on it so I can rev it a bit.

Great thread, thank you for all of the documentation including the costs! Thinking I may be tackling this in the North East winter a few months away... Will definitely come back to this thread for help and pictures. Question: Now that it's been a few months, how many miles have you put on and have you noticed any more issues?

I have put probably 300-400 miles on it and it runs like a dream. Not enough miles on it yet to rev it up but I figure after 500 miles and a second oil change it will be 100% ready to go. If you run into any trouble or have a question I will be happy to help.

just about to start my 3.2ss build! going dual ignition, PMO46s, aggressive cam, and higher compression.. but your steps and photos will be a true help!! wish you were in Seattle, so we could exchange notes ;)

There isn't a huge difference in your build vs mine. Biggest difference will be checking the valve to piston clearance and ignition system.

Dual plug or single plug heads both go on the same way.

Cams both go in the same way, just timed to a different spec.

Let me know if I can help.

I thought I had read in the beginning of your post you were not go to re-ring. But I see you included new rings in you cost update. Did you end up re-ringing the alusil pistons?

My intention was to reuse the rings but after doing some homework I decided to replace them. I am not sure how to tell when they are completely broken in but they seem to seal well as the car has a ton of power and is extremely responsive.

I think it is kind of a crapshoot but the lower mileage on the motor probably gives you a better chance of the rings sealing. Mine was supposed to be from a 65,000 rolled over car so the cylinders were still in pretty good shape.

It seems you are supposed to use different rings for these. However they are hard to fine and almost as much as a new set of Pistons if you do. It seems others have had success so far using the typical rings. Hopefully same for you. Thanks for the info.


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Rings were purchased from our sponsor. The rings were recommended by them and seem to work well.

Thank you so much for helping us with your thread. Really helped me a lot


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So just a final follow up. It has been three years now and the motor still purrs like a kitten.

Look for a either a stroked 2.2 rebuild or a reseal of a 3.2 in the coming year.

how do you like the power (and powerband) of the engine?
i was planning to build a 3.2SS for my 79SC, but i find the cost is getting away from me at an alarming rate. i can get a set of 9.3 P&Cs for pretty cheap, refurb & rering them, buy 964 cams, and finish my EFI for less than the cost of 98mm P&Cs. my car is pretty light and will only get lighter. i don't need world-beating power, but it absolutely must be sporty enough to hang in the twisty-bits. my 8.5 P&Cs are not going back in for love or money and i am giving serious consideration to saving thousands by going less aggressive with the engine.
Thank you for your time and for this wonderful thread.