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Cylinder install
Couldn't help but put one on.
Got some good experience because I got to put it on twice. After installing the wrist pin instead of pushing the cylinder down I rotated the engine and pulled the cylinder off the piston. I got to pull the clip back off, push the wrist pin back out, bust out the spring compressor and start all over again. The good thing is, no damage done and I won't make that mistake again. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1424735425.jpg |
Tom, I appreciate all the pics that you have put up. It has helped me understand many things with my own project. Eventhough we have different engine sizes, there are so many things that are alike. You have done a wonderful job of documenting your build.
How hard was it to remove the old deadbolt studs before installing the new ones? |
The head studs were a chore. I probably spent at least half a day getting them out. Having a good welder to weld a nut to the stud is a big plus.
I must say that removing those studs was the thing that I disliked the most. After that it was all down hill |
It didn't help that several were broke off
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Wrist pin tip
When you are installing the wrist pin if you will push it through a little bit you can actually slip it into the rod a little which will help line up the pin to the rod.
The red stuff is assembly lube. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1424916517.jpg |
Pistons and cylinders installed
So, I have all of the Pistons and cylinders installed. I didn't do them by the book. I put cylinder 3,2,1 in and then 4,5,6.
The reason? I couldn't get the wrist pin clips in. If you put numbers 6,5 and 4 in like the book says you have to put the pins in the shallow side of the wrist pin hole. If you do them in reverse order you have the deep side of the wrist pin hole to work with and it was 100 times easier. Ok, here is where I confess some mistakes. When you tap the wrist pins in put a little pressure on the top of the cylinder because as you tap the wrist pin in the piston it wants to walk up in the back and guess what happens? The rings pull out of the cylinder. Then guess what you get to do? Pull the wrist pin and start over. Since I don't have any kind of wrist pin puller I got to pull all of the cylinders off and start over. Not fun! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1424917151.jpg |
Finally coming together
Today was a big day. Heads and cam towers are on!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425081985.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425082096.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425082154.jpg |
Looking like an engine
Got both sides put together and it actually looks like an engine again
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425082245.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425082280.jpg |
Both sides done
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964 cams in a 3.0
So technically 964 cams do not fit in a 3.0
For the life of me I couldn't figure out why the cam wouldn't go into the last cam journal. It rotated ok but just wouldn't go in. I pulled my stock cams out and realized that there is a small shaft that protrudes from the back of the 964 cam that is not on the stock cam. I assume I can just cut off the part of the shaft that keeps it from going all the way in. The bummer part is that I loosened the cam tower up 3 times thinking that it was a bit out of line until I decided to see how my stock cams worked and BAM! It went right in. The right one is a little snug but I can push it in by hand so I assume it is ok. |
Sealant on cylinder copper gaskets
Ok, here is another thing that I just couldn't do... Put sealant on the copper sealing rings. The book says pull the cylinder up about an inch, spread Locktite on the gasket and push the cylinder back down.
I pulled the cylinder up but was really afraid to pull a ring out of the cylinder. After getting the cylinder up there was no way to put the locktite all the way around the copper gasket because the head bolts and the other cylinders were in the way. I didn't think that putting locktite on part of the gasket would do any good so I skipped that part. The book did say that it wasn't necessary. |
Next up
Valve train, cam housings, cut cams down, sand blast more parts.....etc Getting close but still a lot to do. |
that tab on the end of the cam you are referring to is for the power steering which just gets cut off
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Took out the angle grinder and cut it off. Came off pretty easily.
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Nice work Tom. Am watching closely in anticipation of my own 3.0 o'haul. Best regards, John in CT.
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Awesome job and thank you for taking the time to photograph everything. I'll be going down the same path here in a few days on the same limited budget. Having these posts will be a great help for a lot of us.Thanks Tom hope she runs smooooooth
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Chain housings
Got both chain housings on. Put some locktite on the gaskets and torqued the down. One bolt on each side I coulnt get the torque wrench on so I tightened them with a box end wrench.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425248691.jpg |
Having trouble with my cam install so look for my post and see if you can help me.
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Cam install
I put this in a separate post but should the shaft protrude further than this?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425259122.jpg |
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Well, wasn't the key. I put the other side on and it is identical.
Can't go any further without some advice on this. Someone please chime in! |
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The fact that the cam shaft does not go all the way to the end of the sprocket. Seems like it should |
Found this picture that seems to show the same thing.
Maybe it is correct. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425348572.jpg |
Chain alignment
So checked chain alignment and this is what I got on the right side
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425856967.jpg This is the left side http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425856998.jpg Both are within specs |
Cam and chain assembly
I put the cams in with the key way pointing up and the dot as close to straights as I could get it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425857197.jpg |
Chain and tensioners
I took the tensioners and bled them. Simple yo do, break the bleeder nut loose, put it in a vise and SLOWLYcompress them. I did a little at a time backing them off every turn of the vise. When I could compress them with my fingers they were good to go. Tightened the bleeder and installed them. Large channel locks on the tensioner and a large screwdriver to pry the chain tensioner up and tapped them on with a soft dead low hammer.
Got both on and the chain is nice and tight. Once the cams are timed I will put oil in the top and pump them back up. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425857533.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425857554.jpg |
#1 and #4 rockers
Put both necessary rockers on and torqued them to specs. A long extension with a 5mm Allen driver does the trick.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1425857667.jpg |
When you install the rockers make sure that the rocker shaft in even with the narrow side of the rocker shaft hole. That way the shaft will be centered in the rocker arm and it won't leak.
Now for the part that I am dreading...... TIMING THE CAMS!! If you have a good link or suggestions on setting 964 cams in a 3.0 please post it for me. |
Besides it taking several tries to get it right timing the cams are not as hard as I thought. I made a post looking to borrow the tool to hold the cam while it is tightened. As soon as I locate one I will post a how to.
If you have one that you wouldn't mind renting or loaning I would happily pay shipping. |
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After reviewing my old pictures I realized that the left cam gear was on backwards. Pulled it and flipped it over. I think the chain alignment will be the same but I am going to check it again tomorrow evening. |
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Chain alignment
Checked my chain alignment and all is well.
Here is how you check it. First, with your straight edge measure the distance that the gear on the intermediate is from the face of the case. For my 3.0 you go through the hole at the bottom. Zero out the gauge when it touches the intermediate shaft gear. Check it a few times to make sure it is at zero http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426188633.jpg check the right hand gear holding the straight edge on at the same location that you checked the intermediate shaft gear. Check Wayne's book for what variance is allowed. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426188802.jpg |
Chain alignment
Then check the left gear. Again, check Wayne's book for allowable variance. I just hate to post specs when there are different specs for different engines.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426188917.jpg |
Cam timing
Now on to cam timing!
No worries... I have this! Look for updates Sunday |
Timing
Start by installing the rocker arm for #1 and #4 making positive that they are both set properly with a feeler gauge.
Make sure the distributor is pointed at the mark that designates #1 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426202215.jpg Now back the engine up until the indicator quits moving which is just under 1/4 turn. With the Z block in place and the indicator sitting on the top outer edge of the spring set the dial indicator to zero. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426202400.jpg |
Cam timing
On my 3.0 with 964 cams I am going with 1.26 mm so rotate the engine until the indicator reaches 1.26 mm. If the Z mark isn't exactly lined up with the engine parting line pull the pin and rotate the engine followed by reinstalling the pin.
Oh, and stuff a rag in the bottom of the chain housing, I had a close call with the cam sprocket pin. Once you have it set right torque the bolt down using the correct tool. Then do the other side. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426202745.jpg |
Cam timing
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Cam timing
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426203112.jpg
Then set the distributor to #4 and repeat http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426203159.jpg |
Once torqued down check the setting one more time to make sure that it didn't move.
Then.... Cam shaft timing is done! |
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