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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 13,872
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Newbie looking for sound rebuild advice for 3.0
I just picked up a 1980 sc and it's going to need an engine rebuild. I don't have an unlimited budget in this economy so I was wondering what you experts would recommend? I do have new cam chain tensioners and two brand new ssi exchangers. I would also like to get rid of the catalytic converter. Is the stock fuel injection worth keeping?? Or should I look to aftermarket? Thank you
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Skunk works
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Stick with the stock CIS injection, it's fine with mild performance upgrades
What's your budget and how much can you do yourself?
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964 RS-4 |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 13,872
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Thanks for the input. I will be doing all the work myself and this will be my first 911 motor rebuild My budget is about $5000 and I'm just looking for a reliable driver.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor, CT
Posts: 2,119
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5k is a little light. How many miles on it, is anything broken
, and why do you think it needs to be rebuilt? |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 7,007
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JMHO, but $5K is a LOT light for any kind of overhauled, freshened, or rebuilt engine.
It depends on what level of rebuild you expect. ![]() ![]() I'm not sure you will know much until its disassembled and carefully inspected so you know what the parts bill will be.
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Steve Weiner Rennsport Systems Portland Oregon (503) 244-0990 porsche@rennsportsystems.com www.rennsportsystems.com |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,106
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I think 5k is doable if you don't get crazy with the spec and do the work yourself. The problem with these cars is there is SO many upgrades available.
I'm building a hot 3.0 now and it's not a cheap proposition. ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Windsor, CT
Posts: 2,119
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A "little" light being 2x light
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Skunk works
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Quote:
If you need new P&Cs your 5k will be gone immediately
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964 RS-4 |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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Need to provide some more details of the current condition to get more detailed feedback. Just saying it needs a rebuild gets most people thinking it needs a full teardown and a fresh start from the very beginning with reconditioning performed on every piece of the puzzle.
Maybe you only need a top end job with some head studs? The bottom end of the 3.0L is pretty stout and can go a lot of miles w/out needing to look inside. But it's hard to know if that's a path you can potentially take, w/out knowing more about what you're currently dealing with.
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 13,872
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Thanks for all the input I'm picking the car up next Friday. I planned on rebuilding it because the engine had already been removed and it's got over a 100,000 on it. I have picked up the 101 projects book as well as the Haynes manual. Any other recommendations for reading?
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Registered
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Quote:
Were you told WHY the engine was removed? 100K isnt particularly high mileage for a SC (250K is usual). Look up "alusil" - which is the internal lining on the cylinders for a lot of US SCs. If you have these cylinders it will determine a direction / cost of your refurbishment. Good luck & I hope you didnt pay too much for the project |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Naperville, Il
Posts: 496
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The best book out there for the 911 engine rebuild is our host's book entitled "How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche 911 Engines 1965-1989". Wayne Dempsey did a terrific job with the book and it was pretty much the bible for me when I was rebuilding my 3.6 engine.....even though that engine is not covered in Wayne's book. It is incredibly free of errors, so it is a great reference.
If you engine only has 100,000 miles on it, and was maintained, you more than likely only need an upper end refresh. Of course, you should install the Carrera chain tensioners, which you indicated you have. Get advice from one of the pro's on this board like Steve Weiner regarding ways to assess the condition of the engine without splitting the case. If you end up only needing an upper end refresh, and don't need to replace the pistons and cylinders, then your budget of $5k is probably adequate. Use quality parts when you do the work, so that you only need to do it once. For instance, purchase the viton gasket set put out by Wrightwood Racing. That kit has the best seals and gaskets out there. But, a full Wrightwood set is over $500. But, done right, your engine will not leak! But, by far, your best resource is the talent on this board! By the way, a well maintained 911 motor will get easily 200k miles on the bottom end of the engine. Unfortunately, the upper end will not make that mileage, which is why you will probably need to do the upper end.
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Ernie 98 993 C2S - Arena Red/Beige 76 914/6 3.2 Conversion - Estorill Blue/Coral Red |
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Registered User
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300,000 miles and counting
1980sc engines are very durable.
My 1980 sc has 300k + miles and it runs great? The engine top and bottom end are original. I did refresh the CIS and it runs perfectly and pulls hard. Resealed the triangle of death. I have the original chain tensioners and I do not have a pop off valve. No broken head studs. I had the transmission rebuilt.
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1980 911sc Petrol Blue Metallic Targa, 300,000 + miles M&K Pre Muffler + M&K 1 in & 1 out Sport Muffler Previously owned and rebuilt: 60's VW Bugs, Buses & Ghias |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 13,872
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Thanks for the input! Picking car up tomorrow after a 7 hour drive from Ny to Virginia. Hopefully I can get some good pics to share with everyone. I'm sure I will have a lot more questions in a day or two,again thanks guys
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Puny Bird
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Port Hope (near Toronto) On, Canada
Posts: 4,566
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Quote:
I bought the core 5 years ago, you can't even do what I've done for the same price today. I think $5k would be a stretch.
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'74 Porsche 914, 3.0/6 '72 Porsche 914, 1.7, wife's summer DD '67 Bug, 2600cc T4,'67 Bus, 2.0 T1 Not putting miles on your car is like not having sex with your girlfriend, so she'll be more desirable to her next boyfriend. Last edited by Mark Henry; 01-22-2015 at 02:48 AM.. |
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It's a trap...
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I'm up to $6,800
I cracked the case because I had a tensioner fail and I didn't know if aluminum shards from the oil tray in the chain box went in or not. Cost includes oil cooler clean and test at Pacific Oil Cooler, engine stand and adapter, some Porsche specific tools, and many new parts. Two tensioners, one cylinder, piston and rod, all seals and bearings, machine shop, oil pressure sender, and other little stuff. I am getting ready to mate the CIS to the motor with a new engine harness. Close but still not done spending.
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Run like the wind, straining the limits of machine and man.... 2006 Atlas Gray Carrera 4, '81 911SC Black on Tan (SOLD), 2006 Acura RSX Type S, '13 Dodge Durango (wifeys). |
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Straight shooter
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I'd recommend breaking it down slowly as far as the rods to get a look at what condition you have. A top end job can be DIY'd for under $5k no problem. There's an old saying that doesn't get tossed around here often: "If it isn't broken, don't fix it." If you listen to a lot of people here (some are very knowledgeable) then your kids will have to go to community college. Determine your own goals and use and shop wisely.
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“Of the value traps, the most widespread and pernicious is value rigidity. This is an inability to revalue what one sees because of commitment to previous values. In motorcycle maintenance, you MUST rediscover what you do as you go. Rigid values makes this impossible.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 13,872
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There's a lot of new parts with the car like chain tensioners et and it has 106000 on the clock. I ordered another book that earossi recommended. I will pull the heads as soon as I can. Previous owner mentioned a fuel problem or lack of fuel not sure why he even pulled the engine but it needs paint anyway. I will update after tear down of top end. Thanks for the advice guys
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