finally back at it after a 3 month hiatus! work and life can sure slow you down. but Im committed to getting this thing done in the next few weeks! :)

finishing getting my transmission back together after inspecting it and installing the WEVO gate shift. I'll put up another thread on how I installed the WEVO. It's not too difficult, but there were no pictorials out there, so it should be helpful to some.

More of an overall inspection
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/913622-identify-915-gearset-count-teeth.html

I also installed new jetting into the PMOs and got the new "hatchet" accelerator cams installed.

well, I'll stop promising myself a timeframe. should have learned that a long time ago. I got rather distracted trying to get this broken stud out of the case. ended up having to take it to a machine shop after all my drilling efforts were at a loss. glad I took care of it that way, was an easy trip and wasn't spendy at all.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/927999-front-engine-mount-bar-stud-replacement.html

The second time around..........
 

Don't feel bad, I had to do the same thing. Only in my case, I had managed to cut one of the oil pump side seals when mating the case halves! I got the engine completely assembled and in the car before discovering low oil pressure! So, out it came and had to be completely disassembled. The second time I assembled the block halves, I used an engine hoist to carefully and slowly lower the case half into place to avoid making the same mistake twice! Good luck with your project!

Since you are using the XDi ignition, once you get the crankshaft position sensor properly set, put a small hose clamp on the sensor body so that you can remove and install the sensor if necessary without having to use a feeler gauge. Once everything is assembled and in the car, it is a real pain to get a feeler gauge down there!

Great idea! Though once it is set, shouldn't have to re-set it. But you never know.

Thanks for that tip! Im sorting through so many wires now trying to find good routes, so you never know if I decide to remove that thing!

XDi installation........
 

I mounted the coils on a bracket bolted to the shelf behind the engine. I put the control unit inside the cab, mounted on the small firewall just below the passenger side rear seat area. Putting it inside the cab keeps it away from the engine heat. I've got some pictures (somewhere) and will post them when found. Good luck! By the way, the XDi manual suggests a starting timing value of 10 degrees, 22 degrees and -2 degrees. After much effort, I am currently running 5 degrees, 20 degrees and 0 degrees.

Pictures
 

Finally found the pictures related to the above thread.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491831226.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491831193.jpg

Thanks Fred.

Is there an access point in which I can route the harness to the ECU if I put it in the cabin? Ive got the carpet installed already and Id prefer not to drill any nasty holes.

Certainly Ive seen others put it on the back left panel, but it would be higher than the 150˚F recommended in the XDi2 manual.

On another note, I have the XDi2, so I don't need access to the knobs, just to the serial port.

Programming this beast should be fun. Advance and knock sensors.

Mounting control unit..........
 

It has been 4 years since my engine build, but I think I had to drill a hole and make a plug to seal it once the wires were thru. It comes thru the firewall underneath the little mounting box that I made to keep the control unit off the carpet. I started to put the control unit in the engine compartment where the Bosch ignition used to sit, but got worried about the heat issue. Can you peel up the piece of carpet at the bottom of the bulkhead and then reglue it? If my unit had just unterminated wires I think I could have gone thru the control tunnel but there was a connector that I did not want to take apart. If I think of anything else, I will pass the thoughts along. Good luck!

Have either of you guys found a reference where someone measured the actual temperature in the engine compartment? Like up by where the CD box is/was? I've got my older model Electromotive ECU mounted in the engine compartment of my track car, and heat has not been an issue. To be sure, since the rear seat area was cut out, so the engine bay ends with a bulkhead immediately behind the driver's seat, and that's where mine is mounted, it is farther away from the motor.

But some actual measurements would be interesting - there is a lot of air swirling around in the engine bay.

Heat issue..........
 

Heat should not be an issue as long as the engine is running and pulling in lots of cool air. The problem could manifest itself during the time when the engine is off and the engine compartment heat soaks.

Hmm.. good call there. We need to get one of those IR thermometers and check the temps while running and after sitting (on a hot day).

Went ahead and moved it under the seat. Here is what the final mounting looked like.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/obqv34htLxTPitE27

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pV...w1158-h1542-no

With the help of some friends and extra eyes, I've finally got the motor started, did a quick 20min break in to settle everything. Got quite a bit of tuning, tweaks, and some fixes to do. Overall, it seems to pull strong and sound great!

Here is a quick video of the first start/run in

https://photos.app.goo.gl/c3REMCTcsxHB596k7

All this fun is not without a long list of items I need to follow up on and fix. The oil leak makes me quite nervous, I've yet to do a deep dive to try and find it, so I will read up on some techniques.

- engine will shut off after you rev it and it comes back to idle, but drives fine
- tachometer stops working after it goes pas ~3k
- speedometer is not working
- fuel pressure a bit low (easy fix)
- leaks around crank case (sad about this)
- need new oil plug for sump/crank cover (no collar on the plug Im using and its leaking slightly)
- reverse gear is hard to get into (need to align WEVO and clutch)
- wevo / gate are really tight
- oil temp may not be working (hard to tell if the motor is running too cool Setrab 70 row or gauge is not working)
- oil fill gauge is not working
- need to do a compression and leak down test

I am so glad to see you doing this ! This is a step missed by many . The thought is, generally, that the pistons are new and that is how they were sent to me, so they must be right . The sharp edges are known for being hot spots in the combustion chamber .
Even if you have coated pistons it is recommended to soften or radius the edges .
There is no drawback to the alloy showing through . This is thorough engine prep .
Well done

Remember to vary the revs , you want the piston thrust load to act on all areas of the cylinder . Vary the load going up in rpm as well a going down . Lighter loads in the first hour and finish with full load and rpm in the second and third hour . all loads held for short periods , ie, blips while not moving and then driving it is ok to floor it in the lower gears to red line . the quick sweep of the rpm spreads the load well . This vs a 4-5 gear pull which holds the pressure for a longer time . The goal is to cover all load ranges for a proper brake in . This way the rings will do the best job of seating , also valves, guides,
and all moving parts . Some may not agree with this style of engine brake in and that is ok . If you explore the physics of this system you might find it makes sense
Well done on your entire build

Thank you! I agree with your break in drive. Thanks for all the specifics, they're helpful.

Ive yet to do my full break in drive, since the issue where the car will just shut off after it comes back to an idle is a bit of an issue for driving around. But maybe that's less of a concern when I go on a longer drive! ;)

It will idle fine, but after being revved at all, will then shut off about ~5 seconds after going back to idle. Im not sure what could be the cause, will post another message about this issue in Technical discussion.

You say your fuel pressure is low ? what is the number in psi. 1.5 psi is what I set carbs to. If you do a loaded throttle run will the engine cough and spit or will it run fine ?
I think it would help if you could rule out he float bowl as a possible problem .
float level low, it will cough after steady load, too much fuel, rough at idle and stumble at take off . are all the jets tight? fuel inlet needle and seat ? screen? check fuel flow into a cup at fuel in ? Idle circuit could be partially clogged .
maybe it is an electric shut off? is it instant off or stumble ? is the idle super smooth
or will it hunt . manifold leaks ? did you check the throttle plates for synchronicity
at full close using the tapping method ?
go back to the basics to solve a problem check off the items one at a time
you will figure it out . you have done a beautiful job , well done