I would recommend you rub off the black stuff on the snout of the cams. When you go to install the cam sprocket, the fit will be rather tight. This is especially annoying when you're taking the sprocket off a few times to set your shim count.

It's a good idea to place the sprockets in the cam chains when they're hanging loose like that. The weight of the sprocket lightly pulls on the chain and keeps it from getting hung up like you experienced.

Thanks for the tips, Kevin! I was able to get those sprockets on with no problem, however, I didn't have the woodruff key installed and put a tiny bit of assembly lube on it.

Was worried about the keys and getting them off of again, are they required for setting the timing?

Good idea about those chains.

Yep you need the keys installed in the cams to time them. The key engages the hub piece that has the U-shaped teeth around it. When you install the sprocket, it's free to rotate independent of the cam until the round pin is placed into the one and only hole in the sprocket that lines up with the U-shaped teeth. That's what engages the hub piece and forces the cams to rotate via the chains

Makes perfect sense now and after studying these pieces a bit more.

Timing cams delayed; checked for parallelism on timing chain sprokcets
 

Was hoping to finish the my cam timing and piston-to-valve checks yesterday, but realized I only have the cam tools for the older style cams! :(

Was not able to find a P9191 tool to borrow locally, so I ordered the Stomsky one. Let's hope it arrives on Sat., so I can start to work before Monday. Getting anxious to finish.

Picked up a nice 24" straight edge to check the timing chains were within spec and parallel. Looked for a bunch of them, but ended up getting a really high quality one. If you're not using a tool with a holder, then you want something that is very solid but not too heavy. The process was quite simple after reviewing the books and forum posts on the topic.

For my engine I needed to zero out the calipers to the straight edge to the end of the intermediate shaft. I then measure the distance to the left and right sprockets.

I ended up with 4 of the right and 3 on the left with the following measurements. I had to do this twice, so be sure you don't put your woodruff key in, or it'll make taking off or adding new shims more of a challenge.

Right: 43.11mm
Left: 97.83mm

Within or at spec, so we should be good to go here!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/91db4l7ncw...peg?dl=0&raw=1

Nice to see it looking more like a motor!
 

SO nice to see it taking shape. Lots of time lost on missing pieces, tools, double checking everything. Little things I missed as I went along, but won't forget for the next build.

Those inboard chain ramps are a pain! They are seated up agains the chain box now, but I feel they need to be pulled out a bit? I fear getting them out after I'm don't with my timing and piston-to-valve check.

Here is a shot!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/prb5ogro43...peg?dl=0&raw=1

Cams timed and piston-to-valve clearances checked
 

Got the cams timed to spec of 5.0mm @ 0.1mm lash. The right side took a bit more work to get correct. I ended up using a cheap digital dial indicator vs. the nicer analog one I had. The reason is that when I was tightening the right cam, and put the pin in, things tended to jump a lot and I would lose track of how much the dial would spin. DIgitial indicators take this guess work out.

I could not use the zblock with the digital dial either, so I used a rigid arm, which worked quite well and remained still.

I checked my exhaust and intake clearances for both #1 and #4 at 1, 1.5, and 2mm intervals. SLowly turning the crank there was no interference. So I have at least 2mm of clearance, which is well, within spec!

Actually I did have a point where I felt a slight contact on the right bank exhaust. As I had originally timed the cam on the wrong side of the lobe! During all my practice with timing and using the new Stomski tool, I had lost track of which side the dot was facing. So keep that in mind ;). No damage was done, as I easily able to feel it and I didn't have much leverage on my short wrench.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ou3nttabtu...peg?dl=0&raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s4v3kceqyh...peg?dl=0&raw=1

Committed to my deck height with new custom gaskets
 

Now that everything checks out, I disassembled everything down to the clylinders again.

I was a bit worried of my deck being just slightly too tight. I bought some custom copper gaskets at 0.0016" and re-measured #1 and #6.

Very happy with my deck heights at 0.87 and 0.88 respectively. This puts me at 11.3:1 CR with knock sensors and some careful timing on the XDi2, I should be ok on high quality pump gas.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xn4g12k0xp...peg?dl=0&raw=1

Installed RSR rocker seals
 

Waiting for my air guides and other stuff to get back from PC. So I started doing some other assembly.

I had to use some 400 grit sandpaper on the ends of 4 or 5 of the rockers and then finished polishing them off with 1000 grit. They were not able to slide into the bore of the cam tower.

Installing the seals was easy, but you need to be sure you don't roll them on, or they will be inverted.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s3r9n8uri5...peg?dl=0&raw=1

Some decent pics finally!
 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3n760bwro8...peg?dl=0&raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y57883m2lg...peg?dl=0&raw=1

one more of the heads sealed and assembled. Will put in the cams and rockers on the motor, as I cannot ever seem to get the cam over the chain box.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pn59n05ic...peg?dl=0&raw=1

Got parts back from PC
 

Seattle Powder Coating did a nice job! Took awhile, but all of this stuff seems to be taking longer than I like.

The extra 5-blade fan and housing are just for show ;)

I've got an amber shroud and tin coming as well, so I didn't bother to get the tin coated.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vtxi0ttoya...peg?dl=0&raw=1

Cam Timing
 

This process has taken a lot of my time. I've redone each side at least 10 times trying to get this to spec.

I started by setting the valve lash for #1 and #4 intake at 0.1mm and the spec for the GE60 cam states 4.8mm - 5.2mm.

Used the right side tensioners installed to set the right side timing. And a soft grip for the left.

I've got the newer style bolt cam, which makes this process a bit more difficult. I've set different pin holes and tried a few different methods to tighten the bolt with the tool.

The right side I have set at 5.06mm, which I'm happy with.

The left side I seem to only be able to get at 4.84mm or 5.16mm (depending on which sprocket hole was used).

I'm tempted to go on the low side, as the timing will advance when the tensioners are used and chain loosens up a bit?

EDIT; I was able to get the left bank at 5.05mm after spinning the cam gear 180 degrees. This allowed me to use a new set of guides on the sprocket.

Final timing is set at
Left: 5.05mm
Right: 5.06mm

Running GE60 cams

Installed the tensioners
 

Got the tensioners installed. There is not much room for my stop guards, so I'll likely need to machine away some of the material. Not too worried about using them, since I just rebuild both of these tensioners. Thoughts?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rf4x4bj6z1...peg?dl=0&raw=1

On the bolt style cams it can be hard to set timing as there is no good way to independently turn the cam relative to the sprocket.

Here is what I do that works. The pin and sprocket have some play. First, lock the sprocket at TDC. I use a plastic wedge between the chain and chain housing on the outer perimeter. Next, You can use a tool to leverage through an adjacent sprocket hole and move the cam relative to the sprocket. This will allow you to fine tune the timing lift between macro holes. Then you can torque everything down.

To be honest, the old style cams are so much easier. Just put the (P202?) tool on and turn until the dial reads correctly.

btw, it might be easier to install your intake studs on the bench. Depends if you are using a collet stud tool or double nut.

Thanks for the tip, Jamie. I was tightening an old bolt just enough to so I could rotate the cam in the other direction while setting the initial timing.

My method seemed to work OK, but your procedure sounds safer.

I was now able to get both banks to 5.05mm ad 5.06mm! The issue with the left bank was the cam gear or rather the sprocket. I rotated the cam gear 180 degrees so I could use a new set of holes into the sprocket. Happy to heave thes cam banks in line with one another!

I'm going to have to get those intake studs in on the stand, as I don't want to take these cams out again! haha :).

I found the bolt-end cams to be pesky when the sprocket would not slip on the cam snout with the pin removed. I used to attempt setting the cam to a position that anticipates that inability to rotate it with the pin out and nothing to grab onto. It was a frustrating vicious cycle of back and forth fiddling that didn't allow me to precisely set the cam where I wanted it.

I think it was Bruce or Mike Bruns who suggested to me a few years back to insert the bolt with the big washer removed and snug it in place by counterholding the sprocket with the special sprocket holding tool. This bottoms the bolt in the end of the cam.

No need to gorilla tighten it. Just tight enough to allow you to use the hex head of the bolt & rotate the cam w/out the bolt loosening. Kind of like double-nutting. Then you can use the bolt head to rotate the cam forward or back to set your desired lift spec. Put the pin back in, put the special sprocket holding tool back in the sprocket to allow you to loosen the bolt. Remove bolt, put big fat washer on, put bolt back in. Torque it down, rotate engine back to TDC overlap and check the lift on dial indicator.

Kevin, I tried this method. I don't like the fact that even with the pin in place the cam can move ever so slightly when removing the fixing bolt. This changes the cam timing - even if only just a little bit. Though it probably does not matter. But since I can measure on the dial gauge I like to set them perfect.

At the end of the day as long as the lift and timing are correct it should not matter how you got there.

935 Oil Filter Console Installed
 

Got the 965 oil filter console installed. Oiled up the seals and torqued down.

You can see I had to fabricate a piece to hold the end down. This is because the console I found had this portion cut off, but it was easy to fix, so I went ahead and used it!

You need to be certain you are using the correct t-stat block off techbique, or the oil will not flow properly. Originally I had just used a hallowed out t-stat, but this will still allow pressure to go through both channels. The 964 (930 107 767 02) t-stat cover works perfect for this purpose as it blocks off the top channel, which would otherwise allow the oil to flow to back to the case.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mlk774c191...peg?dl=0&raw=1