What was your valve clearance set to on 1 and 4, when the valves were closed?

When closed they are at 0.


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I think you mean valves adjusted at .004", not what the dial indicator was set at?

From what I see in the videos you are looking good.

Are you using the stock tensioners when you did this check? And made sure the chains were tight?

Disassembly Done ... Time To Rebuild 3.0
 

Oh yea. .004 was the clearance.

I have the mechanical tensioners from smart racing or one of those companies. You can see them below. Chains are tight.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...544d97d34e.jpg


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Cam timing is done. Hydraulic tensioners are in. Started installing the exhaust rockers for cylinders 1 & 4 so I can do the piston to valve clearance check one more time.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...fd6be1c3cc.jpg


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Disassembly Done ... Time To Rebuild 3.0
 

Making progress. Now installing remaining rocker arms.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6c5dbe15fb.jpg

EDIT ...damn. Just looked at the picture and realized I'm showing off my messy garage. How embarrassing.

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Disassembly Done ... Time To Rebuild 3.0
 

Long block sealed up.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...bfa17aa631.jpg


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Nice work! this thread has been a fun read. I am now motivated to get busy with mine.

Thanks. Forgot to update with current progress. Starting to bolt on the accessories. Fan and exhaust done. Next to install CIS.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1481658386.JPG

GREAT BUILD,

Just some 2 cents from me, great build though, dont shoot me for the advice.

Your cam olines, your left one looks like its the old one? These are cheap insurance to replace, I would.

And why not set them so the rubber bit is straight, reduces stress on the ferrale (connection between rubber and metal pipe). If you blew a cam o line on the left side (due to over stress of the ferrule where the rubber clamps to the metal), it would be a while before you noticed it with the oil pressure light coming on, due to the amount of oil in the system, and the oil pressure gauge sender being on the right (which could at least give some warning for the right side), by that point your left cam train would be trashed :

You will need to loosen of a the whole line, but after that its fairly easy to put them straight and reduce stress on the connection.

Maybe im just fussy! but i always do it. This is an old engine where I took a pic to show some one else a few years ago :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1482010705.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1482010807.jpg

seems like good advice .

another pic, new cam lines on this one,


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1482011426.jpg

That's a good eye. I'll straighten them out. Thanks.


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Hi Matt,

Great work you are doing on the rebuild. I have a 3.0 I am rebuilding myself.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost to have the heads rebuilt? Did you need to replace your valves?

Thanks!
Jeff

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cb4581870e.jpg

Rebuild complete. Can't believe I finished. Now to reconnect transmission. Replace cv joints. I'm also still waiting on my fuel injectors to come back from cleaning.


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cool!

Motivated today. Cv's replaced.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fdae3fbf5a.jpg


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I always found it easier, to put the cvs back in , after the engine and tranny were installed...

I hear you. They can get in the way during engine install. But access to the outside cv is so much easier without the engine in.

Transmission reconnected.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...50b066dadf.jpg

Just waiting on a few fuel injectors and this thing is ready to be reinstalled.


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