Disassembly Done ... Time To Rebuild 3.0
 

So I've elected to start a rebuild of my 83 SC 3.0 engine. History is as follows:

205,000 miles without being split. Records indicate some sort of top end work done back in the early 90's but I'm not exactly sure what it entailed. Car ran fine with some CIS issues. Used a bunch of oil but mostly from leaks. The engine was pretty dirty. Compression tested good across all cylinders. No leak down test. Power seemed a bit down compared to others cars.

The plan is to go through everything. Clean check and only replace what needs it. My best outcome would be to only have to replace typical wear and tear items. Maybe I'll think about a cam regrind but we'll see.

I didn't post all my disassembly photos. It's not as interesting as the rebuild stuff. And it was pretty uneventful. Just one head stud that gave me some problems. And I cracked a fin on a cylinder head when removing from the cam tower. I posted that on a separate thread.

Here is where I am to date. I'll use this thread to document and ask for help. Enjoy. I'm hoping I will.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a581a55719.jpg


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Matt,
Good luck with the rebuild.

regards,
al

OMG
Did you disassemble your whole engine will working on the floor?

LOL. What? No...there's an engine stand in the foreground! I'm just storing the parts there. The other bay of my garage is taking up my wood flooring material as I'm in the middle of renovating my house too.


My first question on this rebuild.

I know Wayne's book says that the crankshaft is one of the items that should be sent to a Porsche expert for work. But if I'm only polishing it, can't any competent shop do this work? The crankshaft is really heavy to ship out and I'd rather not if I don't have to.

I had my crank done at a reputable crank place that knows every crank made.
It wasn't cheap and everything checked out for the good.

Likewise, I had mine checked, polished and balanced at a local race shop. If you have to have it ground -1, you'll want to send it to where the journals can be re-hardened. There's lots of discussion about that here somewhere...

I only have a caliper set so I ordered a large micrometer so I can take some better dimensions of the crank. Overall I think the bearing surfaces look good. I don't see any scratching. I noticed these two spots on the flanges. Is this normal?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...98872f8b31.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...cfe3e6ff85.jpg


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Totally normal.

Photocopy a zoomed in version of the crankshaft specs and hand it to the machinist polishing the crank. Any good crank shop can polish and verify specs.

The crankshaft is at the machine shop getting micro polished.

In the interim I am going through the connecting rods. So far they seem to be measuring on the smaller side of the tolerances. I guess that is good. However I am concerned how they look. This is off cylinder 1.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1461803963.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1461804060.jpg

And the bearings.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1461804103.jpg

Obviously the bearings are shot. Are these rods ok?

That rod looks fine from here-no signs of movement of the bearing. The rods are tough stuff.
Just put some good bolts back in ARP? and if you have sufficient crush you're probably good to go.
Wrist pin bushing tight too?

On the rods it depends what you are doing. If it's going back as a stock street car then OE bolts and nuts are more than sufficient. Even NA hot street the OE nuts/bolts are OK. 3.0 are stout rods, one point where it beats the 3.2 engine.
If you plan to bump it up then I'd get bolts.
If going ARP I'd get the big ends resized, if the small ends has even a hair of slop (rock) I'd do all the rods.

That said I did my rods with ARP bolts, new bushings and had the small/big ends redone.

I would necessarily call the bearing as shot, I would measure them to see if they are still within tolerance.
Especially the mains and #8, going by how clean your journals are.
Bearings today are not the same quality as the were 15-20 years ago.
I would check the tolerance and if they are good I would reprocess them with a DFL coating and seriously consider putting them back in service.

The measurements on the small end seem to be close to the tighter side of the spec. My measuring equipment isn't top of the line. I will test fit the wrist pins and see how they fit.

This is going to be a stock rebuild for a street car that gets driven 3 - 5k per year max. So I was not planning on the added expense of ARP bolts.

Ok. I will measure these bearings and see what I come up with. I'll try to post some additional pictures of some of the other bearings. Some of them look worse than the one I posted.

Rod bearings are cheap and I don't think they were an issue, it's the main set and #8 I'd focus on.

Good luck with your rebuild! My 3.0 is going back together now. Definitely an interesting journey...

Thanks. I've been watching yours. You're moving much faster than me.

Finished measuring the rods. Big ends all seem well in spec. Small ends too. However when I test fit the wrist pin it slides in very easily. And it has a very slight movement. So I believe the next step is to have the machine shop replace the rod bushings. Is there anything special about this operation on Porsche rods? It seems like any good shop can do this.

On the rod bearings i had liked the idea of reusing the bearings and having them coated if they are all in spec. They all looked pretty much like the photo I posted above or better. Until I got to number six. See below.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1461894727.jpg

I can feel this groove with a fingernail. Something must have gotten in there. So I am guessing reusing this set of bearings is out. Correct?

You could, it's only one scratch, but like I said rod bearings are cheap, I'd just replace it.
Main bearings are the one's I be interested in scoping right out.

Here's some bearings I've processed with DFL, new and used, done it on a type 4 and 911 engines. So far I have had good luck, but then I haven't torn down an engine to know how they are wearing.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads...1393378840.jpg

A set I practiced with as I refined my DFL coating process. You can see it doesn't fix large scratches.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads...1393530533.jpg

Ok. New bearings for the rods then. Thanks.

Subscribed. Subbed all the 3.0 L rebuild threads. :D

Also good luck!

Thanks.

Picked up my polished crankshaft yesterday. I'll post some pics later. Now I am waiting on the replacement wrist pin bushings to be delivered and then I will drop my rods off next to be re-bushed.

I'm pretty psyched. Yesterday when I was at the machine shop, he showed me two sets of 911 heads that he was working on. This is not a Porsche specific shop and I had only planned on giving him stuff that was more generic (crank, rods, cleaning, etc.) I told him I didn't realize he did these and he told me they do them and have been getting a lot for some reason lately. And his price was in line with other shops who do this. I was dreading having to pack up my heads and ship them. Now I think I can drop everything off with him. Glad I stumbled upon this yesterday.

Progress has been super slow. Machine shop took forever with my rods. But I started to get stuff back and hopefully now will have some progress.

Crankshaft micropolished
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...8fad81eebc.jpg

Rods rebushed
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c4c20549d9.jpg

Case hot tanked
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...06070c16d0.jpg

Cam towers hot tanked
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...75f0503bf7.jpg

One problem. When I removed the oil pressure relief bolts and springs I didn't take out the piston piece inside. One fell out so the shop found it but the other one got hot tanked inside. It's stuck now. Any ideas on how to remove? It's the one in the right side case.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...5aa1b136b9.jpg



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Magnet?

Apparently there was a part in Wayne's book that tells you to make sure you get the Pistons out before you hot tank your case as they will get stuck in there. Oops. I had to pop it out through the passage on the other side. I couldn't find anything to fit in there and then used my sons target arrow from his bow set to knock it out.


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A 1/4 pipe tap works good to grab those pistons too:

A strong pair of circlip pliers works.

This thread is most helpful in gaining insight into my 3.0 tear down and subsequent build. Thanks for the pictures and conversations from all involved. Here we go!

Some progress...finally. Got the crankshaft together. On to case assembly now.

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A thing of beauty!

911sc rebuild
 

Nice job. I have an 81 911 sc that I'm just started the same process. Ordered
the P 202 and 203 tools. That's what's holding me back

Trying to figure out all the locations that require epoxy It's a little hard to tell from the photos in the book. Is this one?
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...92610e43c4.jpg


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Yes, but take care not to over do it as the fan sits tight against it.

I was making progress today.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1469997581.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1469997617.jpg

But then.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1469997646.jpg

I'm hoping heat and a stud remover will get this out. :(

Wow...
surprised that stud broke off.. the oil pump nuts aren't torqued that tight are they?

I'm doing a 964 engine at the moment too..
When you got your case back from being hot tanked, what other prep did you do to get it super clean?
Also, did you removed the sealant from the flanges or did the shop do that for you?
Cheers
Mike

I've not seen one of those break before.....but a good stud remover, heat and PB Blaster are your your friends.

I used carb cleaning and shop towels. Followed by isopropyl alcohol with Kim wipes. The hot tank took off most of the old sealant. What was left I used a scotch Brite pad and carb cleaner to remove the rest. Also I found that goof off and a razor blade works well for removing stuck gaskets.

For some reason it wouldn't click on the torque wrench so I kept going and then snap.

So the good news is this stud did not put up any fight. A little pb blaster and a stud remover. Didn't even have to use heat. Now waiting for the new stud. The PET shows the stud as a m8x20. But when I enter the part number it comes up as a m8x37. Not sure which is right.


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Disassembly Done ... Time To Rebuild 3.0
 

Some show grip length after installed and some parts list show over all length.


I think pelican shows overall length at least they do with exhaust studs

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