Respectfully, ditch the Reinz gasket set and order a Wrightwood one from a reputable engine builder. Reinz= junk.

would you mind posting the itemized costs for the machine shop? (was wondering about how much is charged for cylinder honing, head grinding, etc...)

I'm looking at the engine hanger in the first pic. Why do the hanger bolt sleeves at the end of the bar look screwed up?

^^^Because the bolt seized, OP you need to address that too :-(

Seriously? From putting a torch on the sleeve and then hitting it with an impact? :eek:

It's been a while since I updated my progress so here it goes. I have the engine assembled which went very well. I ended up buying a bunch of extra original Porsche seals and gaskets to make sure I will not have any leaks. We also measured the piston clearance using Wayne's trick which was right on spec. Installed new oil lines and put in turbo restrictor fittings, replaced chain ramps, replaced the hard to reach sensors, put in the new spark plugs etc... it's a long shopping list...

Here are some pix.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492317387.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492317387.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492317387.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492317387.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492317387.JPG

Also started cleaning up the engine bay including the oil tank area. Unfortunately the oil lines going to the thermostat were pretty rusty, so we pulled out the tank and the rusty parts. The oil tank got "hot tanked" and I painted the exterior with a high temperature paint. Along with the new oil lines I opted for the rubber gasket and, fabric covered hoses that will get replaced before the engine goes in.

As you can see on the picture, the glue on the fire wall is quite ugly and I had already bought a new foam insulation pad which will get installed, but I am considering going with the aluminum style instead...

More pictures below.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492319445.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492319445.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492319445.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492319445.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492319445.jpg

As I was cleaning the transmission, I found the factory sticker that has the matching VIN on it. I thought that's cool. For the tranny I got a new gear selector shaft seal and a fork update kit with bushings to replace the failed original bearings.

Check it out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492321208.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492321208.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492321208.jpg

One more engine picture

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492322655.jpg

Why did you use anti-seize on those threads ?, really bad practice ....oh dear.

Thanks for the comment, I guess it's up to debate but according to Wayne Dempsey; lubricating the head nuts (on the nut side) is a good idea to ensure correct torque values. It's in his engine rebuilding book on pages 151-152 including a picture.

ARP also recommends their own lube to make certain the torque will be per spec.

Wow, purty :D

Indeed - looking very nice. Can't wait to see it back in the car and running. Good luck with the start-up.

The Porsche Workshop manual for the 964 states that the head stud and nut contact surface be covered with Copper Paste prior to installation. The P fix it DVD outlines the same method. Looks like you are fine.

Going back in the hole

The transmission is already installed and the whole thing is balanced on the motorcycle jack
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1505797235.jpg

The engine is bolted in.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1505797235.jpg

any updates on the trans?
Saw you got a new clutch, but was curious how the install went.

No updates on the tranny. It does have a factory LSD and we just drained it and refilling it with fresh gear oil.

We did change the rear seal because the dust cap looked like it was leaking and also had to update the guide shaft that slides inside the clutch. Apparently there had been an update and the original does not fit into the new clutch. There is a service bulletin for this update.

Installing the trans went really easily after we figured out that we needed the new guide shaft. Used tape to hold the fork in place while sliding the transmission on, which was removed at the end. The new upgraded fork feels nice and moves easily.

Since I have all new brakes as well I can't tell how the pedal feels yet since there is no fluid in the system yet and the hydraulic clutch is feeding off the there as well. In fact my entire suspension and brakes have been redone. I will probably start a new thread on that in the technical forum section.

Can I ask about having your parts cleaned up and getting the tin around the engine redone??
What type of cleaning service did you have performed to get them all cleaned up?
I will need to have the same exact things done to my engine and I want to make sure I am asking the shops the right questions to make sure everything is cleaned properly.

I also want to know about the tin... did you have some surface rust? If so... did you clean it off yourself or did the place that did the powercoating clean the surfaces?

Sorry for all the questions... I'm starting to remove my engine and unfortunately no one I know has done similar work like you have done.

Not really sure what you mean about "cleaning service".

The tin parts were sandblasted and powdercoated. There were a couple pieces too rusty and I replaced those with some good used parts I found. Since I had the valve covers, fan and fan housing powder coated they also cleaned those up.

The machine shop took care of the cleaning of the cylinders, pistons and cylinder heads. I also had them hot tank the oil tank, and some additional bolt on parts.

For the rest of the engine you have to use some elbow grease....
You might want to buy Wayne's books if you haven't already done so for some tips. He's got a section talking about cleaning.

What 'type' of cleaning did they do? That's what I'm looking to have done locally, but I need to be specific to some of my local shops as to 'HOW' I want them cleaned...
Also, what was the cost of having them cleaned?
And did you have to completely dismantle the spring, valves, etc...??? (Looks like you just gave them the entire head assembly)