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Another first engine drop - progress to follow

Dropped the engine out of my 87 Carrera yesterday.

I had my literature ready including the Bentley, and Wayne's 101 Projects books as well as more info from previous posts on this forum. It took two of us about 5.5 hours to do it.

1. We backed up the car on ramps and followed the Bentley to disconnect everything from the engine from above and below.

2. Used an ATV/motorcycle jack with a piece of ply on top that went under the engine, and a smaller hydraulic jack under the transmission, and lowered it to the ground.

3. It was then when we realized there wasn't enough clearance to pull it out below the bumper, so we opted to remove the bumper, and it (luckily) worked with just enough space to scrape by above the MAF with about 1/2" to spare.

Upon having the engine out I noticed that the firewall side of the engine tin is completely rusted out. I will be removing them all today and inspect the condition of the other tin pieces.

I will need to find a replacement for the bad ones and I was wondering what my best bet would be? Junkyard? Buy new from some place? These things seem to be pricey especially considering they are only a piece of stamped sheet metal.

As you can see on the photos it will need a bit of cleaning also....



Old 11-05-2016, 09:56 AM
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Hey, Good work. I will be following this closely as I am currently doing the research/maths for my own Engine drop and rebuild on my 1977 2.7S. I will do the leak down test tomorrow to hopefully get a better idea of the condition of my motor.

Regarding your rusty tinware, I would suggest buying new parts were possible and I think Pelican my have them too. The chances of finding that in a scrap yard could be very slim??

Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 11-05-2016, 10:44 AM
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You have a better chance of finding good sheet metal than if you had a C2.
Buy from the lower or central dry states.
Bruce
Old 11-05-2016, 03:35 PM
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I pressure washed the engine and the transmission, and separated the transmission from the engine.

Also removed the tinware around the engine. The one by the transmission was completely rusted out and the left side one also needs to be replaced. I think I can re-use the other pieces, but they will get a new set of screws and probably a paintjob.

The dirty transmission cleaned up quite nicely.

Noticed that still have the original setup for the clutch fork. This is going to be a good time to update it, and probably do the clutch as well, while it's out.




Old 11-06-2016, 02:50 PM
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It's been some time now since I started this thread, and since then the top of the engine has been disassembled.

I also took the parts down to the machine shop where they cleaned all the bits, rebuilt the heads and honed the cylinders.

I have most of the new parts for assembly, and should have the powdercoated parts back this week as well.

Here are some pix













Here is the main reason this had to come apart. TWO broken studs.
Old 12-28-2016, 08:10 PM
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Check out the spark plugs. Aren't these the most miserable looking things you have seen? I wonder how many miles they have on them.

Also did a leakdown test. Oddly the cylinders with the broken head studs were not that bad.




Cylinder 1


Cylinder 2


Cylinder 3


Cylinder 4


Cylinder 5


Cylinder 6
Old 12-28-2016, 08:21 PM
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The new parts are here. It's a big pile.

There are some more that are not included on the photo, and I am sure there will still be more that I need...



The parts from the machine shop are back as well.

They cleaned up really nicely. Even the top of the pistons are nice and shiney.










Two of the valves needed to be replaced. Here is one of the two


...and here is the second
Old 12-28-2016, 08:45 PM
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very nice, congrats!!!

How hard was it to change the studs?
Old 12-30-2016, 03:09 PM
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Be careful with the Victor-Reinz oil pump seals; the fat, square-edged o-ring looking ones. Some were made too short and don't seal resulting in no oil pressure.
Old 12-30-2016, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tippy View Post
Be careful with the Victor-Reinz oil pump seals; the fat, square-edged o-ring looking ones. Some were made too short and don't seal resulting in no oil pressure.
Thanks for the heads up

OP, good job!

Keep us Posted, Doing a complete rebuild myself, may go 10:5.1 or 3.4L depending on shop's findings :-)
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Old 12-30-2016, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babinuk View Post
very nice, congrats!!!

How hard was it to change the studs?
Not hard at all with the Snap On Stud extractor/installer, even for the broken ones, you use the smaller one and it will bite right on to the shaft. and pull those suckas right out.
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'85 Carrera Targa
Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Magnecor * Targa Body Brace
PCA/POC
Old 12-30-2016, 05:08 PM
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OP, btw, I noticed your Gear Box top vent, it appears to be cock eyed, hole should face forward, just FYI.
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'85 Carrera Targa
Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Magnecor * Targa Body Brace
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Old 12-30-2016, 05:09 PM
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What lining surface treatment do these cylinders have? I was told it is difficult to rehone 911 cylinders unless you get them re-plated with nikasil?
Old 12-31-2016, 03:31 AM
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Search Nikasil and Alusil to determine what you have.

Nikasil don't need rehoning.

Last edited by Tippy; 12-31-2016 at 06:21 AM..
Old 12-31-2016, 06:16 AM
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Thanks for the comments guys. Please see my responses below...

>Babinuk: Thanks. The studs came out really easily. We used a stud removal tool similar to a chuck. Most of them came out at room temp, but had to heat the case on a few.

>Tippy: Thanks for the heads up. I bought some extra gaskets as well. I think this one was included. We'll pay attention to it.

>Draco: Thanks for the heads up about the transmission vent. I'll take a look.

>Mikedsilva: I do have Nikasil, and I did quite a bit of research on them. The opinion regarding honing them seems to be split but from what I learned, as long as the shop has the proper diamond tool that is the right way to do it. The shop I used does have it.
Old 01-03-2017, 08:21 PM
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BTW, you gave me a brain fart, I wonder if I can do a leak down after head install just to make sure everything is square and free of leaks?

I need to cc my cylinders - heads.
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'85 Carrera Targa
Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Magnecor * Targa Body Brace
PCA/POC

Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 01-03-2017 at 08:48 PM..
Old 01-03-2017, 08:28 PM
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I got my parts back from powdercoating. Here are some pix.


These are mostly the tin pieces plus a few others. Did them in glossy so dirt doesn't stick to them as much.


I always thought the fan is such a prominent element when you pop the engine lid that it should look the part as well. I did the valve covers red as well since I was at it.


Sanded down the PORSCHE so it stand out more
Old 01-03-2017, 08:33 PM
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Got my clutch today also. Came directly from Sachs.

Old 01-03-2017, 08:37 PM
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Signing up to watch your progress..... nice work btw
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Old 01-04-2017, 11:53 AM
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Porsche Crest engine build

So far sooo niccce!
Old 01-19-2017, 04:37 PM
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