That would do it, they need lots of heat.

Diagnosis
 

Update:

Finally removed P-Side Cam with Heads

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492970296.JPG

Bottom lower corner #6 pulled from case

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492970296.JPG

No apparent damage to heads or cylinder, finger nail test

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492970296.JPG

Bonus, the walls look great no signs of adverse wear or tear after 500 miles.

Ready for surgery, split between TimeSert of Case Saver, Wayne likes the Case Savers for Mag Cases I wonder if TimeSert will be find here? TimeSert is 24.5MM long not sure about CaseSaver's out course pitch and size. I have the kit for the TimeSert
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1492970739.JPG

I'm sick for you, thst has to be disheartening.

Anyways, did you clean the piston and combustion chambers, or were they that clean?

No big deal glad I don't have to tamper with D-side.

The good thing is I can check ring seating and piston to valve clearance are good to go :-)

Oh no, I wiped them down to look for irregular wear pattern, wiped very easily surprisingly.

Nice

good news and nice post

Thank you for sharing

Well Done!
 

Hi Jim...It appears that you have more patience than Job! - Again... 'Hat's off to you Bro" SmileWavy

Thanks for the well wishes Fellas.

So, upon recommendation of Master KTL, I decided to go Case Savers, the M16 ( 14MM X 24MM x 2.0 Pitch ), just waiting for taper/threader. Maybe over kill for an aluminum case, but better safe than tear down again due to pulling.

Built a jig with left over aluminum and copper tubing to help me thread in straight, no need to porcupine the repair :-D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493220288.JPG

Drilling holes to use the cylinder place holders and a pilot hole for the threader/taper.

Might make another bar to make it even more accurate.

Thank goodness it is only one, if it was more, I would definitely take the case to a Machine Shop to avoid the notorious porcupine affect

Great thread! I could only hope to handle the pulled head stud as well as you have...

David

Fixed and Torqued to Spec!
 

Update:

Success, my little jig actually worked!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493611082.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493611203.JPG

Believe me I was pooping bricks while doing this with the M16 Drill Bit and 14MM x 24 X 2.0 CASE SAVER. :eek:

19 ft lbs then 38 ft lbs. DONE!

Now to put everything back together and re-check timing :D

Timing Verified, Repair complete!
 

Whoa!

I gotta tell ya, life is funny :D

Lucky me, timing did not change, wow. fortunately I thought ahead and gambled by marking the sprocket before removal, glad I did. I am sure this never happens the first time checking timing, :-) well maybe Nick FUlljames :-P. But my ghetto technique worked :eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493622810.JPG

Yeah, I took the intake off to prepare for splitting the engine, yes split because I fuched myself when I dropped a wrist pin in there using the stupid expensive Porsche SST ( which totally sucks btw, Thanks Porsche! ) In desperation I used my HF video borescope and luckily found it on my first attempt and used a magnet to pull that little sucker out. OMG!

I love YouTube, trying to find a proper tool I stumbled on to this guy, he showed how to properly install the damn pins without gimmicky tools or craziness. Just a small flathead screwdriver and my thumbs, WOW. 3-5 seconds, that is all it took. BINGO!

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rJvMn_VlJ4E" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Well, I took this opportunity to clean up the aircraft tar like sealant that made it's way into the intake from the intake gaskets.

RFLOL, that is the problem my job, if I was jobless this would have been done 2 weeks ago :D

Eh, I fear no more with this car. I can do it all now

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif

Mahle tips and tricks installing the wire locks

https://youtu.be/3kdhGBCpuxM

I would like to see this work on JE cir-clips. NO WAY. AHIK.
I spent some time today making my own installer. A piece of EMT tubing, a 14mm bolt with the head machined to fit in the tubing, and a long socket extension. Worked like a champ.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493694700.jpg

the above method does work on JE clips i will admit to bloody fingers when completed though.

I gave up after about 30 minutes of chasing circlips across my garage. One is still MIA. I did have the head studs installed, which may complicated things.

I spent less time making my tool than cussing about trying to install them without using it.

I have installed all 12 in the past without the tool. For some reason this time it just wasn't working for me.

I have to get new clips when i took it all apart a couple went sailing across the garage never to be found again.

Those JE circlips were hell. Some went so easy. And some took all the allotted time you had to work on the engine that day.


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I spent a half an hour shooting them across the garage and digging them out of the motor, before I gave up and made a tool to do the job. Took 15 minutes to make the tool and then 30 seconds each to install them.

Success!
 

Ah man, are those JE clips bigger than CP's? I thought they were the same thickness. I must be lucky.

Well in any case, all ready to go back into the car.

For the heck of it, actually in retrospect, I should have done this the first time. May have found the leak but the head stud did not pull then, Hmmm.

I did a cold leak down on stand at 100 PSI:

#1 90/88 (2%)
#6 90/86 (4%)*
#2 90/88 (2%)
#4 90/86 (4%)*
#3 90/88 (2%)
#5 90/87 (3%)*

So within 2% of each other cold seems pretty good, no?

*I suspect due to me having to remove the cylinders on P-side because of the lost of that freakin wrist pin clip, I had to re-clock/confirm the ring positions. Will need to break them in again :-). Happy the D-side kept consistent :D

Cigar Smoke tested, no leaks.