Part Trois: 3.4L Build, The Journey
 

Day 1:

All parts are in! :cool:

Crank Shaft:

• Crank Shaft, Polished, Verified Straight, No Cracks, Oil Pathways Clean and Snout Fixed
• Rods, Resized (STD), Straightened, Honed and New Wrist Pin Bushings
• Bolt/Nut kit, ARP M9 Bolt/Nut Kit 40ft lbs
• Clevite 77 (STD) Bearings, measured (Tab) 1.476MM, (Center) 1.495MM (Non-Tabbed side) 1.476MM, Consistent on all bearings, thicker in the middle as it should be

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489088459.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489088459.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489088495.JPG

Notes: ARP M9 Nuts require a 12 point ( Triple Square ) 11MM Socket

Bought this toy to verify my torque settings, works very well considering it is from HF
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...pspx1yzevm.jpg

Case Assembly:

Last measuring task:

Ground ( well, I chickened out and had a Pro do it at Vellios $45, Yes I cheated ) and Measured Ring END GAP

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ps5gllfkkx.jpg

Top .017
2nd .022
Oil Retainers .015

Don't worry fellas, the file is for any burrs the shop missed, they didn't :D

DAY 2:

Oil Pump/IMS with New Bearings & Chains, installed
GT3 STD Bearings, installed

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489207386.JPG

DAY 3-4:

Chamfered, D-side Case thru holes and two behind the Oil Cooler (side tracked, modification needed)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489372472.JPG

Case Sealed, used Master Henry Schmidt's method of Case Thru tighten without O-rings as not to panic on time but I still needed to tighten the perimeter nuts within the time limit. She is sleeping over night, O-ring with Dow55 Tomorrow.

Used Brand New M8 Oval Lock Nut and M8 Crush Washer for the perimeter.

Test Turned the Crank, All Rods moved freely and drop on their own weight, Wow, Smooth :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489471047.JPG

ARP Head Studs, installed :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads26/IMG_4599_1_1489562389.JPG

Tested Rotation, SUCCESS!

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4brUhjCIFw4?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Cylinder, Rings, Piston, Head and Cam Tower Assembly

Had to wait a week for my WISECO RCS09800 true 98MM Ring Compressor Sleeve/Installer, HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...g?v=1437618113

Day 5

Measured Deck Height, glad EBS spec'd for 3.2 heads so I still have the step, it allowed me to measure deck height easily.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490234483.JPG
Don't mind the gauge, I dropped it and then stepped on it, also take pic cock eyed the readings

Measured 6 times :D, OCD like that

Heads torqued down verified flat as the Salt Flats.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490287481.JPG

Next, Cam Tower, Camshaft, #1 & #4 Rocker prep for Timing :D

Another tool recommended either the Stomski Wrist Pin install tool or Porsche 964 Wrist Pin installer, you have to mod the side tabs but it works freakin great.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1098899373.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1098899496.jpg

Day 6-7

Timing Set, A successful 1.25MM both sides:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490811185.JPG

She is smiling at me :D

Proper Tools really is a Must! Thanks again Master KTL!

Weekend Break:

Did some Bling, used Craft's Store Metal Oil Based Paint Pen to paint the Logos on the intake and upper Valve Covers, came out pretty nice :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491098765.JPG

Hot bathed in DishWasher :-P

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1491477969.JPG

ASSEMBLY COMPLETE DAY 12-14 ( Actual time 4 months waiting for parts and machine service but working on her, about 2 weeks )

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Glad to report, no extra bolts and or nuts. WOO HOO :D

Next, install and break in, Joy Joy Joy

The Break In:

Step 1: Filled with 30 weight SAE Rotella

Step 2: Hand Cranked to insure nothing is binding, Nothing is Binding :D

Step 3: Cranked with Starter, DME disconnected NO FUEL, Cranked Smoothly and Effortlessly

<iframe width="480" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fSEWwCUuawM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Step 4: Start, Run at 2000 RPMS for 20 Minutes, check for leaks, DUMP OIL, Change Filter.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0l_gX9y81es?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uLOeDxIVP9s?feature=player_editpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xmO7qwaVP6w?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Step 5: Refill with 30 Weight, Drive Her for 50 Miles, All RPM ranges and decels, check for leaks, Dump Oil, Change Filter.

Step 6: GO visit Mom in Fresno 600 mile round trip, check for leaks, dump oil, change filter, Put in DELO 400 15W40.

Lol
 

For a second I thought, why does your CS have eyelashes?

Sweet.............

I would really consider a bolt-stretch gauge for the rodbolts.

Mine were all over the place final torque wise.

Beg, borrow, or steal one.

Our rod bolts are the weak link being smaller IMO.

Yeap

Will redo with gauge Master KTL lent me :cool:

That's great to hear!

I like the flooring. Just had ours done.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Verified:

0.0105"

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489111898.JPG

Surprising, for a POS HF unit, but it wasn't typically cheaply priced :eek:

You're stretching 10-thou? Forgot it was that much!

Yes sir, ARP spec states .0100-.0105" or 40 ft lbs

Have you figured a way to post a pic when editing?

Yeah, Wayne forgot to add that feature on editing. So I just copy from photo bucket and paste :eek:

Gordon & Jim,

I do it this way. Create a new reply, use the picture upload feature and the link/path for the picture is created. Copy those picture path(s) and paste it into the placeholder post you want to edit. Easy way to do this is have two Pelican windows/tabs open at the same time on your 'puter- one for the new reply (doesn't even have to be the actual thread we're on) and one for the editing of the placeholder post. The key is, DO NOT click on the submit button for that new reply which you created for nothing more than uploading pictures.

Make sense?

Lol

Never give up Never surrender :cool:

No commercials, NO MERCY!!!!

https://youtu.be/ipsPgNEmAXI?t=2m28s

Easy Peasy Fresh and Breezy :D

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4O9o4CKTGzQ?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

There is no spoon...........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAXtO5dMqEI

Quick Questions,

Ollies removed my Transmission to Engine Mounting Studs. I can't recall which way the studs go in the case.

Rounded Tip Out or In? I do know the orientation for the starter :-)

Torque too purty please

http://rennlist.com/forums/attachmen...ersion-040.jpg
http://i398.photobucket.com/albums/pp69/nsully/9.jpg

Seeing FLAT side out ( rounded tip in case??? )

Then I found this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1332958714.jpg

WTD, My pic record was horrible too :-(

Testing KTL's pic posting techinque:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489207355.JPG

Worked like a charm, Thanks again Master KTL!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat3.gif

I would have the rounded tip out. Not sure it matters except for thread engagement? But I forgets if the thread lengths are different at the ends of the stud?

Learn something new every day. Today it was the picture trick!

Those engines pictured look like 3.6 because they have the 60 teeth flywheels (one of them is a dual mass)?

Good Eye :-)

I was looking for some flywheel side, pics.

Well, Round Out, it is, Thanks again Master KTL!

I am progressing along just fine. Nothing eventful every thing is going to plan. Mating cases today.

One thing of note ( happy ) is with the new thrust bearing there is little to no play on the crank. Prior to the build, the old thrust bearing was so worn, the crank would move forward/aft about 2-3MM :eek: now about 0.3-0.5MM. Amazing what 187,000 miles can do to the #1 thrust bearing, glad Dr Steve Wong convinced me to split the case and I got to the bearings in time, lucky crank did not wear down in that area :D

Do you sit at a red light holding the clutch in?

When I was a Noob, yes. Was purty ignorant, I have to sayhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif

BTW, How you guys feel about this Break In procedure?

Kinda makes sense to me:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Side Note: What method of applying 574 do you guys like? Bead or Spread on?

I agree with that method of break in. It is similar to what Chrysler recommended in the 60s, BTW.

You should load the cylinders followed by periods of deceleration. In my opinion after about 50 miles or about 30 minutes of spirited driving the motor will be mostly broken in. I would limit any red line runs for a while longer however.

Wayne says to spread, using a brush, the 574.

I saw a video of a fella using what looks like a long reach feeler tool and used it like a spatula. I like it because one does not have to worry about the hairs pulling out or a roller for that matter

SST Sealant Spreader :-)
 

From Michael's Crafts Store :-) $4.00

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489283865.JPG

So I decided to 574 the Bearing Saddles Surfaces,1184 the Case Perimeter and Dow55 the Thru Bolt Green Viton Orings :-)

Going to use the left over ARP Ultra Lube for the all the Nuts

An acid brush works really well to spread the 1184.


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x2 on the acid brush, that spatula will be a PITA.

Question

The case thru holes only have the chamfer of nut side should I chamfer the bolt side?

I did. Just be careful that your countersink leaves a smooth finish.

Roger that!

Thank you Brother

As a beginner here, I'll share what worked for me. Used some tricks from my woodworking background. Mounted my countersink in a long extension which makes it much easier to read perpendicular with the hole, and also line up the extension with one of the head studs. I also rotated the case past vertical so the chips would fall out on onto the floor instead of into the case. My through bolts went on very nicely with the viton o rings just starting to squeeze down at the proper time. Also used Henry's recommended Dow 55 and the Sharpie cap tool to get them on. I also torqued them dry and without o rings during assembly, then went back the next day and reinstalled them one by one with the orings and Dow 55. Way less stressful that way.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489368054.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489368054.jpg

Outstanding!
 

So I was pondering should I just send it back to the shop and have them chamfer it? Nah, just do it, it is only Aluminum http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/silly.gif

Brother Jameel, Great idea about alignment technique, too bad I do not have a long 1 piece extension. I am glad you also decided to do it by hand, much better control vs a hand drill, Boy that case is SOFT :eek:

So I bit the bullet and went to HF and purchased a $5.00 3 in 1 Countersink Hand Tool. Oh what the hey, eh :rolleyes:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489372472.JPG
Before ( stuffed paper towel in the hole to catch the shavings )
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489372472.JPG
20 Twist Later
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489372472.JPG
After ( used Emory cloth to smooth it out and a vacuum to remove the debris )

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489372472.JPG
Why we need to chamfer the Case Thru Holes, Geez, Thanks Porsche

Smile of Joy, Priceless, now to build the Rod and Chain Holders :D