stomski wrist pin insert tool

[47silver]

hi
i want to buy the stomski tool from our host but there are 2 sizes listed
one is for 22mm and the other is for 23 mm
i have a 911T 2.4 1972 T motor that i will be using it on,,the pins are not at my house so i cannot measure them so should i use a 22 or 23 mm tool?

[Flat6pac]

All the early through SC uses 22mm. Turbo 3.3 and Carrera and later use 23mm pins
Bruce

[47silver]

80000 miles on the motor.
Took it apart and am amazed that the crank and intermediate shaft bearing surfaces, look brand new and the crank is perfect.

I was planning on putting it back together with new studs and bearings but that fear of the twisted case is in the back of my mind.
Queston: should i get it align bored. the cost does not bother me i just do not want to mess up the geometry of the case and worry that the next time the case is apart there is not much that can be done.
any suggestions?

[47silver]

22 mm it is

[jjeffries]

I borrowed one of those when I assembled my SC engine. Super effective. John.

[trond]

I too got one for my rebuild but found the clips were permanently deformed when inserting the clip in the tool (or is there any other way to use it?) After destroying two clips I gave up and used thumbs and flat screwdriver.

[John McM]

Originally Posted by trond

I too got one for my rebuild but found the clips were permanently deformed when inserting the clip in the tool (or is there any other way to use it?) After destroying two clips I gave up and used thumbs and flat screwdriver.

What do you mean by permanently deformed? I found that it took a couple of practices to know how deep to insert it so it didn't spring out but it didn't seem in danger of deforming.

[trond]

by permanently deformed I mean the clips had to be compressed too much to get them into the tool, and therefore lost shape. I measured the opening in the clip before and after, with 3 clips and they all changed shape. I don't feel completely certain I did not make a mistake myself and will post a picture to illustrate the issue I had

[John McM]

This is how deep I placed my Circlip and how it looked after insertion. Looks fine to me.

[trond]

I removed the clip from the tool and compared gap against a new clip. Found that it was deformed permanently and so chose to not use it. Might not be an issue and maybe I made a mistake. I was considering a complaint about the tool to Pelican but a bit late now. Meanwhile I just thought other users should be careful.

Insert spring clip in tool. Remove and compare shape of clip with a new clip. If they are identical then no issue and I was wrong

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by trond

I removed the clip from the tool and compared gap against a new clip. Found that it was deformed permanently and so chose to not use it. Might not be an issue and maybe I made a mistake. I was considering a complaint about the tool to Pelican but a bit late now. Meanwhile I just thought other users should be careful.

Insert spring clip in tool. Remove and compare shape of clip with a new clip. If they are identical then no issue and I was wrong

The wrist pin clip/s under go a slight deformation when using this tool. The stress applied to the spring to get through the tool causes this deformation. Measure before and after and you will see the difference in spring dimension (ID). I stopped using it and went back to my old method (locking forcep and socket).

Tony

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by John McM

This is how deep I placed my Circlip and how it looked after insertion. Looks fine to me.

John,

I will try your installation technique next time. Thanks for the pictures.

Tony

[John McM]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

John,

I will try your installation technique next time. Thanks for the pictures.

Tony

No problem re pics. BTW: The technique is on Stomski's YouTube video. Circlip in just enough to hold, cant to one side, present tool the piston at a slight angle and push. I'm using all new Porsche circlips, but I'll test one just to see if there is any change.

[john walker's workshop]

You don't really need that tool for the 22mm clips. Your thumb can push them in, followed by a small screwdriver tip to seat it fully. You definitely need it for the bigger, thicker ones.

[mikedsilva]

Interesting:
When I used the tool for the 23mm in my 964 I had the same problem. What I was doing wrong, was pushing the clip too far inside the tool.. I was so doubtful, that removed all circlips and bought new, and did it again.
Turns out, then you have to only push the clip in JUST ENOUGH to stop it springing out.. if you push it all the way into the tool, then you will ruin the circlip.
On the 23mm, there is no way I could do the job without the tool.

The Stomski tool is great, but needs a bit of practice.

[Henry Schmidt]

I use the Stromski tool but you have to use some common sense.
Not all pin clips are created equal. Not even all the clips from Mahle.
There are various wire thicknesses in the 22mm and 23mm clips.
I've found that JE uses a thicker wire that can easily deform in the Stromski tool.
Use the tool? sure, just use it with caution.

[Jase77]

I've just used the Stomski tool for the first time tonight. I have JE pistons and clips and although fairly 'fiddly' to use it inserted the clip very well. I tried to manipulate the clip by hand with a small flat bladed screw driver before using the tool and it was nasty. I would have lost patience fairly quickly.

[Trackrash]

Very easy to make your own. A 14mm bolt with the head machined down and a piece of 3/4" EMT with an 3/8 socket extension to knock it in. Worked perfect for my SC JEs.

[Henry Schmidt]

By using Supertec head studs you can eliminate most of the headache associated with pin and clip installation.
Installing the pistons in the cylinder then installing the pin and clip without fighting with the head studs is a real timing / aggravation saver.

[John McM]

I sacrificed a new Porsche circlip to test the 23mm Stomski tool deformation.

Even at the most minimal insertion required to hold the circlip there is deformation, however the circlip nevertheless appears to seat satisfactorily in the channel.

Given the likely grief in getting a 23mm circlip in manually and the nature of the forces on the circlip in operation I'll accept the risk that the circlip is deformed using this too.

Thanks for bringing this up. I wonder what Stomski's view is?