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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Kansas
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need help with engine rebuild

Hi All,
I'm getting ready to work on removing my engine and trans.
Need to purchase a hydraulic cart and an engine stand, along with the Porsche part to hold the engine.

Anyone recommend a good engine stand? (Saw one at Harbor Freight)
Anyone recommend a good place to purchase the engine mount?


Finally... I am looking for some place whom I can send my engine parts to, that can check them for cracks, etc... clean/blast them, port & polish, etc... as well as any work that might require skills beyond me just taking it apart and putting it together.

Any recommendation on a place you trust that has provided great service? I'm not looking to ship my entire engine out, as I want to learn what I can on my own.

Thanks!
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1987 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe
Old 09-19-2017, 08:50 AM
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Harbor freight motor stand is fine. You absolutely need the Porsche yoke though...

Go on you tube and watch the Speed Academy 930 engine rebuild series by turbocraft, excellent overview...

Then tell yourself it will cost $2000-3000. Denial is absolutely the first stage of any engine rebuild .

Then take your time, and enjoy the process... It's kinda fun. My. Motor is in pieces, but it's a bonding experience with the car...

I mailed my heads to cgarr... He has a wait built up at this time. But shipping was pretty cheap, $50 or so for 50 lbs!!! Insured, via FedEx...

Rods will send to ollies. I emailed a couple builders/ machinists, most didn't email back. Ollies did, and they have a great reputation.

Keep us posted.

Bo
Old 09-19-2017, 09:39 AM
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Hello - I'm attaching a link to our catalog for the engine parts that you're looking for. Please feel free to also give us a call at 888-280-7799 and one of our Porsche part specialists will be happy to assist you with the parts you're looking for and make sure you're sorted for your project.

PelicanParts.com - 1987 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe - Engine
Old 09-19-2017, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
Harbor freight motor stand is fine. You absolutely need the Porsche yoke though...

Go on you tube and watch the Speed Academy 930 engine rebuild series by turbocraft, excellent overview...

Then tell yourself it will cost $2000-3000. Denial is absolutely the first stage of any engine rebuild .

Then take your time, and enjoy the process... It's kinda fun. My. Motor is in pieces, but it's a bonding experience with the car...

I mailed my heads to cgarr... He has a wait built up at this time. But shipping was pretty cheap, $50 or so for 50 lbs!!! Insured, via FedEx...

Rods will send to ollies. I emailed a couple builders/ machinists, most didn't email back. Ollies did, and they have a great reputation.

Keep us posted.

Bo
Do you have some contact info to cgarr and ollies? I'm not familiar with those shops.
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Old 09-19-2017, 11:27 AM
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Did you get Wayne's engine book and the 101 and the Bentley?
Very handy.
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Rod
1986 Carrera
2001 996TT
A bunch of stuff with spark plugs
Old 09-19-2017, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 911 Rod View Post
Did you get Wayne's engine book and the 101 and the Bentley?
Very handy.
yes... I had bought them last year. Some have used Wayne's "How to rebuild and modify..." as a step-by-step and have seemed to had good results. I'll probably follow it to the letter as well... along with Bentley for further clarification.
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Old 09-19-2017, 01:29 PM
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Google ollies Porsche machining. Cgarr can be searched by name on here and pm him.

Bo
Old 09-19-2017, 03:42 PM
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I'm using:

- 1000 lb engine stand, Amazon $85 (I think you could go even cheaper)

- 500 lb Hydraulic cart, Harbor Freight $170 (that's list; you can often find big discounts. I got 15% off, iirc)

- 20 gal parts washer, Amazon $150 (this is super handy, especially if your engine is anywhere near as gunky as mine was)

- Most of the more specialized tools recommended by Wayne's books (engine stand yoke, cam holder, crow's foot, etc.)

And of course, Wayne's books!

You can follow my teardown (and eventual rebuild) here:
Newbie '73T 2.4 MFI Engine Rebuild

- Jake
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:41 PM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trakrat View Post
Do you have some contact info to cgarr and ollies? I'm not familiar with those shops.

Hi...CGARR aka Craig Garrett does and excellent top end valve jobs and his price is right!

Craig Garrett
G2 Performance
Grand Rapids, Mi 49508
Garrett@iserv.net

Rating: 10/10.

Communication 10
Updates 10
Turn Around 10
Machine Work 10
Shipping 10
Packaging 10++
Price 10+

"Walt" @ Competition Engineering http://www.competitioneng.com/ is an Ace...
As is Ollie's @ http://www.olliesmachine.com/
You cann't go wrong with either one of them
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Last edited by A horse with no name; 09-22-2017 at 03:41 PM..
Old 09-19-2017, 11:46 PM
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Most engine stands will accept a Porsche mount adapter. Look for a stand with 4 wheels. 3-wheel stands are too unstable. There should be provisions to rotate the mounted engine and lock in place. As supplied, engine yokes may or may not be drilled for a lock pin.

An engine stand is handy, but not necessary especially if space is at a premium. I rebuilt an engine on a sturdy workbench with the engine sitting on a heavy duty turntable providing easy access to all sides of a short block and long block. Install the exhaust system after the engine is in the chassis.

Sherwood
Old 09-20-2017, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911pcars View Post
Most engine stands will accept a Porsche mount adapter. Look for a stand with 4 wheels. 3-wheel stands are too unstable. There should be provisions to rotate the mounted engine and lock in place. As supplied, engine yokes may or may not be drilled for a lock pin.

An engine stand is handy, but not necessary especially if space is at a premium. I rebuilt an engine on a sturdy workbench with the engine sitting on a heavy duty turntable providing easy access to all sides of a short block and long block. Install the exhaust system after the engine is in the chassis.

Sherwood
Thanks... any idea how to mount the yoke to the engine? Wayne's book says you use 2 studs that holds the transmission... but you need larger nuts to act as washer or spacers???

Am I reading that right??? a 600lb engine is held onto the yoke by only 2 studs???
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:03 AM
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That depends on the adapter used to mount the engine. Not sure what engine yoke Wayne refers to in his book, but probably a factory-type yoke.

Look at the images here for the adapter of choice:
https://www.google.com/search?q=911+engine+stand+yoke&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVpPrdurTWAhVYzGMKHaoiAsAQ_AUICygC&biw=1391&bih=1009

Sherwood
Old 09-20-2017, 11:10 AM
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I have several of the half moon fixtures and they always work for me.
Just bolt them to the head that comes with the engine stand.
Biggest thing is having a stand high enough you don't have to bend way over to assemble the motor. Gets real tiring bending several hours
Old 09-20-2017, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911pcars View Post
That depends on the adapter used to mount the engine. Not sure what engine yoke Wayne refers to in his book, but probably a factory-type yoke.

Look at the images here for the adapter of choice:
https://www.google.com/search?q=911+engine+stand+yoke&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVpPrdurTWAhVYzGMKHaoiAsAQ_AUICygC&biw=1391&bih=1009

Sherwood
Well I'm just going to order the P201 yoke from our host for $299... (I saw there was the same P201 listed for over $1000????!?! )

That's what is in Wayne's book... I'm just surprised that his books only mentions using 2 studs as the mounting points. I guess/hope the studs are machined into the crank case... otherwise I'd worry of threaded studs backing their way out as you rotate the engine, or even breaking off due to corrosion or defect.
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Old 09-20-2017, 01:34 PM
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I have an engine stand on wheels and the yoke for 50 bucks picked up in OC if it helps. My 3.0SC is done and screaming. Call me if interested 949 422-3384

cheers
Old 09-20-2017, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trakrat View Post
Well I'm just going to order the P201 yoke from our host for $299... (I saw there was the same P201 listed for over $1000????!?! )

That's what is in Wayne's book... I'm just surprised that his books only mentions using 2 studs as the mounting points. I guess/hope the studs are machined into the crank case... otherwise I'd worry of threaded studs backing their way out as you rotate the engine, or even breaking off due to corrosion or defect.
The yoke slides into the motor architecture, it slides into/ around it. The yoke holds it all up, the bolts do little, other than keep the two together. It's a must have.
Old 09-20-2017, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bpu699 View Post
The yoke slides into the motor architecture, it slides into/ around it. The yoke holds it all up, the bolts do little, other than keep the two together. It's a must have.
Thanks... Do I need the flywheel lock as well?
Not sure what that is for... as I'll be taking the flywheel off to replace it anyways.
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Old 09-22-2017, 11:25 AM
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Flywheel lock prevents crank from rotating when R&Ring the crank pulley. A facsimile can be fabricated as well with a piece of flat steel and a couple of holes.
Old 09-22-2017, 11:49 AM
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I do not like the engine stands with 3 wheels and a T shape base. They are unstable regardless of the weight rating. the 4 wheel H shaped base stands are much more stable
Old 09-22-2017, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgmrgm View Post
I do not like the engine stands with 3 wheels and a T shape base. They are unstable regardless of the weight rating. the 4 wheel H shaped base stands are much more stable
I agree with this but it amazes me how many people say the 3 wheel is fine and they saved $40.00.
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Rod
1986 Carrera
2001 996TT
A bunch of stuff with spark plugs
Old 09-25-2017, 05:27 AM
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