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reassembling the case...

When reassembling the case, most videos and books show that the rods are put on the crank first, then the case is assembled. Why is that?

Now, if you plan to use a stretch gauge on the bolts then this makes sense. If you simply plan to torque the rod bolts to spec, does it matter?

Seems like putting the case together and THEN putting the rods on would be easier. Giving you more time to fiddle with the case/sealants/etc. Also easier to make sure that the crank spins freely as you are torquing stuff down...

Any downside to putting the rods on after the case is assembled? Perhaps the risk of dropping in a nut? Anything else?

Bo
Old 12-06-2017, 07:32 AM
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It'd be a bisch to put the rods on once the case is together. Of course, Porsche was genius with giving you the ability to do so, but I'd rather deal with the rods flailing around with rubber bands than putting the rods on once the case is buttoned up.

With the amount of studs on the case, the only 3 rods you're dealing with are easily managed as you can simply wedge the case against the studs, stopping the case from seating, to adjust rods accordingly. Once through, you can wiggle case down to seat.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:35 AM
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Having recently done this (albeit only once) I dont think it is that much easier bolting the case halves together with everything except the rods assembled. There are still a lot of parts (and sealants) that need to be in there before putting the halves together. However putting on the rods after the case was sealed seems like a PITA along with the risk of not achieving correct bolt stretch by only torquing (I know this is debatable). Plus you cant do the full drop test where you watch the rod drop slowly as it rotates on the crank. You only get to see it rotate a partial rotation through the case openings.

Not worth the risk to me just to get the instant gratification of having sealed the case asap.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:52 AM
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I replaced rod bolts with the crank in the case the very first time i assembled the engine. It was apart but the case not split when i bought the car. it's much easier doing it with the crank out on the bench and then just propping those three rods up when putting the case together.
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Old 12-06-2017, 09:01 AM
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ok then... rods go on first as that's easier...

thanks folks...
Old 12-06-2017, 09:29 AM
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If you seal the case with 574 you don’t have to worry about curing.
Now, yamabond on Honda bond, best read the directions but both work excellent.
Putting rods on after closing the bottom, you ll be a glutton for punishment....
Bruce
Old 12-06-2017, 09:32 AM
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The nose of the crank goes to the left and all rod numbers face up.
Bruce
Old 12-06-2017, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat6pac View Post
The nose of the crank goes to the left and all rod numbers face up.
Bruce
Not sure I know what that means...

My rods had the stamped on serial numbers facing the clutch side before disassembly...

Are the rods "directional"? Havent read that far into the manuals yet... still working on the piston squirters....
Old 12-06-2017, 09:59 AM
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Also the easiest way to bolt the rods on is to bolt the flywheel to the crank, that way it will stand up on the bench while you tighten and measure everything. then remove it before placing it in the first case half.
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:17 AM
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bpu..what Bruce is saying..All the matching number on rods should face up....all on left or on right....

Also it is not a hard job make your self a tool for the chain ,it has to be strait up while assembling the case together...i just did this job for a friend of mine have a look..short video

Ivan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKsuUBZih78
Old 12-06-2017, 12:45 PM
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Don't get creative Bo, follow the standard procedure!
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:04 PM
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