Camshaft Timing Question

[Tippy]

Boogered is the proper engineering term for damaged threads or cylindrical deformations....

[Trackrash]

The new cams have the small bolt in the end of the cam and unlike the older cams, I could not get the bolt to hold the cam while removing the pin like Kevin suggested. For some reason, I could not get that to work.

On the old cams you had a tool that would hold and rotate the end of the cam. Not so on the newer cams.

The only way I could do it on my motor was to stick a small fillips screw driver in an adjacent hole when I removed the pin. I could then use that screwdriver to rotate the cam in relation to the chain sprocket.

Yea, yea, I had all the rockers in, etc, etc. Now my motor has a high lift cam with racing springs, so that added to the problem.

[safe]

Originally Posted by Trackrash

The only way I could do it on my motor was to stick a small fillips screw driver in an adjacent hole when I removed the pin. I could then use that screwdriver to rotate the cam in relation to the chain sprocket.

Yea, yea, I had all the rockers in, etc, etc. Now my motor has a high lift cam with racing springs, so that added to the problem.

I use the screwdriver method too. At least on one cam, on the other you can hold it by the bolt..

[Steam Driver]

Relative to a reply above, the sprocket was installed on the same side it came off of when I disassembled the engine. I marked and bagged them as I did so. So the boogered side was towards the heads and thus in accessible.

I will post some pics this afternoon or this evening. Inaccessible (not on this device) at the moment.

[MBruns]

I use a simple method for the bolt drive cams, if it’s a new assembly I install rockers on one cyl. With the key ways up on both cams and at Z1 pin both sprockets, say your timing spec is 6mm, roll it through and if you see it’s going to be more than 6mm at one revolution stop at your timing value, unpin the sprocket and continue the crank to Z1 then repin and you will be very close, If you are short of your timing value (within reason) go beyond Z1 to your value and unpin and back the crank up a bit beyond Z1 then in normal direction aproach Z1 and repin. That way you aren’t sticking screwdrivers etc. in the pin holes and wrecking them.
Hope this helps, Mike Bruns

[Steam Driver]

OK, you asked for them, here are a couple of images of the damage to the sprocket:



And here is a second image that shows the shiny spots on the inner bore a little better:



Now here's a bonus. I just ordered the replacement parts from our host yesterday (1/25) and not early in the day either. THEY ARRIVED THIS AFTERNOON! I don't think I've ever had service like that before. I did not select or pay extra for expedited shipping either. The difference between the new parts and the old ones are pretty amazing as well; here are a couple of images of that: