|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Round Rock (Austin), TX, USA
Posts: 1,212
|
I love you guys.
So... to answer my question, the voltage setting on the tps is independent of the motronic version. We have the same settings, .37~.4, as the older R's. And, the higher the reading, the richer the mixture - for very small throttle openings where surging occurs. But, stay below .4, the approximate value at which a fault is registered. I think I'll set it at .395 (per Roger) and see if that cures the surging.
__________________
Paul. '11 R1200RT, '09 Buell 1125cr, '08 Suzi SV650A, '00 Suzi SV650, '97 328i (with sticky ass tires - I love this car). And the bikes I used to own: '68 Bultaco 100, '69 Honda CL450, '71 Kawasaki Mach III, '71 OSSA Pioneer, '72 Honda MR175, '72 Benelli 250, '75 Yamaha RD350 (then college), '83 Honda VF750F (then kids),'96 MZ Skorpion, '99 R1100S, '01 SV650, '94 Honda VFR750F and '04 R1100S w/Öhlins an' stuff, most wrecked. Last edited by pwillikers; 11-06-2003 at 09:04 AM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: While a member here: Japan - Germany - USA - Curently: UK
Posts: 752
|
From my personal and unprofessional experience here's a couple of tips I learned.
1. Attach the neg lead from the Digi-Volt meter to one of the two 'TPS retaining bolts' (or that little brown ground wire under the throttle body) for a good consistent ground (I've gotten different values when I attached the ground lead from the Digi-Volt meter to other parts of the bike). 2. Read the voltage and adjust with the bike's engine running. I found that with the engine not running, the voltage reading would start at .330 then move up to around .350 ~ .370 pending on how the battery is. So to get a consistent voltage reading, I have the bike’s engine running. My S from the factory was set to about .330 volts, read with the engine running. Mine is now set at about .360, again with engine running. MarkC |
||
|
|
|
|
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Austin, TX. USA
Posts: 11,605
|
Hi Paul,
I'd second MarkC's good advice on measuring with the motor running. Let me clarify what said (or meant to say) I've had good results up to .395 or a little more, but generally like something a bit lower (which also helps keep idle realistically low) .375, or even down towards Mark's .360 can work well. I'd be tempted to start around .375 and then play a bit. Good luck Roger
__________________
99 R11S w/ BBP, InDuct, Öhlins, PVMs, Braking, SJ-Filter, ZTech, HIDs D675 R90Cafe R60/2 M900 SV650-SS CBR150R XR125 & CRF175 Motards OnRoad OffRoad Cycles, Austin, TX: BMW, Ital, Suspension, Electrics Dealer for K-Tech, JRI, GP Suspension, Penske, Öhlins, RaceTech, Elka, Wilbers, IKON & Works www.ororcycle.com CMRA EXPERT #841 Various Formula 5, 6 & 7 championships 2006-2012 A3, Navigator, |
||
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Rate This Thread | |
|
|