ABS Noise and Failure

[SandCityFlyer]

I have a 99 R1100SA. A couple of days ago the ABS lights started blinking alternately. I turned off the ignition, and relit, but that didn't help. I came home, did a Pelican search, and checked my rear fluid. No apparent obvious problems. For some time before the incident, and it could be forever, I can't be sure, the ABS would usually make a noisy racket, like clanging garbage lids upon initial actuation at 2-3mph. I had heard that a noise was normal, but mine sounded ridiculous, to me anyway. Since the "lights came on" I have been quite happy with the brakes, with no real noticable difference in feel or anything, except for the blinking lights. The ABS control unit was replaced under warranty a couple of years ago, and I know the price of that thing! I have read that a 2 inch piece of electrical tape, strategically placed over the lights will eliminate the worrying aspects of this problem. I would not buy a BMW with ABS again, just because of the unnecesssary IMO complication and weight, but I don't want to sell or trade the one I have. Is the tape thing a reasonable "fix", or am I risking impending doom? It's nice not having the damn clanging noise. Stoppie practice underway.

Jerry

[Moybin]

SandCityFlyer:

Don't have an answer for you, but do have a question.

Are the brake pad carrier pins on the brake calipers corroded? Mine are and will be replaced before next riding season starts. I've wondered if they are not letting the pads retract off the rotor even though the pistons pull back. Might be responsible for less than stellar gas mileage I get, or that could be my right wrist's fault.

I'd look for something that's letting the pads "slap" against the rotors. But it's just a guess. Beyond that I have nothing.

ps: Have you bled the system recently just in case there is an air bubble in there somewhere?

[bikpaintr]

Originally posted by Moybin
SandCityFlyer:

I've wondered if they are not letting the pads retract off the rotor even though the pistons pull back. Might be responsible for less than stellar gas mileage I get, or that could be my right wrist's fault.

I would think that if your pads were dragging on the rotors enough to affect fuel mileage your rotors would be getting very hot. This would be easy enough to check when you're out for a ride.

[bikerfish1100]

rottenbiker ended up getting time disqualified (by a matter of minutes) on the 2001 Iron Butt due to her rear pads getting so corroded that they locked up when she had to brake to avoid a tractortrailer's ejected tire. not an issue to mess around with. but it doesn't sound like the issue that sandcityflyer is dealing with, his sounds more like an ABS system fault.

[jduke]

Alternate blinking of the ABS lights generally mean your battery isn't charged enough to properly activate the ABS system. I've seen procedures on how to test the battery to see if this is a possibility, just can't remember where. I'm sure a search of ABS fault testing would show something. Also check the SportTouring site and the IBMWR site, both good sources for BMW problems.

[davidgiannini]

I had this very problem when the battery was ready to die. I replaced the battery with an OODYSSEY® Drycell battery. No more strobe lights. I did'nt have a volt meter at the time so I can't tell you what the voltage was at the battery when I experenced this problem. So, how old is your battery?
PS Ihad a great ride yesterday over to San Jose to pick up some rice paper wrappers for the spring rolls I'm making tonight. Glad we are getting a bread from the rain.

[jclark]

The last two answers are statistically, most likely.
Low hanging fruit, if you will.

:)

jeff

[markjenn]

Back to your original questions:

1. The "running over a garbage can" initialiization sound is normal, although I can't speak to whether yours is louder than normal. For 40K, mine has been noticeable, but not obtrusive. Since yours has been working fine for years, I suspect it is normal and unrelated to your failure.

2. The blinking lights indicate an ABS fault in the system. Your brakes work fine when they blink but you don't have ABS - they're just normal brakes. If you don't care about ABS, then tape over the lights and drive on.

3. Low battery voltage can fault the system, but it is certainly not the only way the system will fault. Usually, when the battery is going bad, you'll start to get symptoms where it will become more dfficult to initialize, for example, after a cold start it will tend to fault, but be fine afterwards. You always want to wait a couple secs after turning the key to press the starter button, but you probably already know that. Certainly, if the battery is five years old or you have any reason to suspect the battery, that would be the first thing to replace.

4. Next thing I'd do is make sure the sensors are okay at the wheels - clean, wires fine, clearances okay, rings on the wheels okay, etc.

5. These systems will often flag a "hard fault" after a tipover. Typically, they will not reset unless you take them to a dealer. There are methods on the net to do your own reset for certain models of GS bikes and ABS versions, but I've never seen anything definitive on how to do it on our bike.

6. If your battery is okay, no tipovers, no obvious sensor problems, etc., then you need to take it to the dealer and have them read the fault code. Could be something really expensive and serious - could be simple and cheap. No need to panic yet. Most dealer will read the fault codes for free or a nominal charge while you wait.

Good luck,

- Mark

[ExarKunONe]

I'm thinkin its the battery too. Make sure check electrolyte level as well.

[SandCityFlyer]

Mr. Dealer got my $$$. Sensor gap needed re-shim. Moditec test showed 2 faults stored. ABS piston fault and warning lamp fault. Lamps tested OK, Cleared faults, Test rode, no new faults. Got my ABS noise back! Battery was almost new and in good condition.
No more stoppies. "Walletectomy" complete! Patient recovering.

[jclark]

That's wewird - I've had those sensors in/out/in/out a bunch of times, and never a problem. Even used the adjusting tool supplied in the toolkit, and the gap seemed to have quite a range..

Well, it wasn't trhe 'low hanging fruiit' this time...Chalk it up!

Was cheaper thn a new battery?

jeff

[bikerfish1100]

of course it was cheaper than a new battery, as a new battery would not have solved the problem and he would have still probably had to do the moditec fault analysis. could have DIY'd the sensor gap tho.

[Rapid Dog]

battery.
Go Odyssey
E-bay is the way.
over and out