wee bit o' tech assistance needed...

[SCOTTinNJ]

Originally posted by repoe3
i do need to get some need nipple caps (for the bike, boys) the old ones are splitting, but they seem to seal alright.

If they are splitting, they may not be sealing right. This is just my theory, but at slow air velocities, like at idle, air might get through the split. At high air velocities, like when riding, the rushing air could "seal" the split. Maybe that's why you are having problems at idle but not at speed?

I'd just replace them. Any automotive shop should have suitable plugs. In a pinch, just use some tubing and seal the end of that.

[gigantic]

REpoe, I've had the same problem on my bike, tb's wouldn't synch, rough idle etc. tried everything but the Lentini method 0=0 tps synch. I've come to the conclusion that it's the cables and bowden box, which I'll replace, one of these days, along with the spark plugs, which are likely fouled from not havng the cat code plug in, 0=0 tps and a dyno tune for the PCIII. fwiw, adding the PCIII did help the rough idle, but I'd hesitate to say that that's the proper solution. Got the cales & box on the work bench, I've just gotta find the time to do it. I'd rather ride than wrench...
Lance

[Peter Parts]

Plugs foul but the symptoms generally show up when you goose the bike, not at idle which is not challenging even for dirty plugs.

The route to checking zero setting/idle stop begins with measuring the gap because that is a direct test, not a proxy measure. But count to 10 before touching the idle stop which is generally considered reliable and stable from the factory (unless you moved it... like is always done with carbs). Likewise, zero=zero is not a likely suspect. But TBS=.37 CAN get funny if the cables were pulling during the previous setting.

If you inadvertently moved the idle stop, you can "rebuild" the settings.

[repoe3]

Originally posted by Highlander179
Im getting that same stumble-at-idle-on-cool-mornings as you describe. When I dont use the fast idle lever, it doesn't happen that day. This morning I did and yup, it stumbled many times commuting when at idle. Sometimes it gets so bad I can't idle and constantly have to blip the throttle to keep it running. Weird.

you just described what i am dealing with, exactly.

repoe3

[repoe3]

Originally posted by Peter Parts
Yes, cables, sheathes, and one-into-two boxes get messed up, stretch, and behave badly and that may be where your problem lies. But being able to eyeball the butterfly gap will be a good start at diagnosis and will confirm the starting point for idle of the butterflies. Maybe then, the next basic check is confirming that the TBS is around .37 (important to be below .4 to avoid popping).

Vague idling and hunting, as you describe it, may be due to leanness, at least in carbs. The fault-tree search with EFI is a bit different in detail but the same in concept.

The injector guys are skeptical about the value of cleaning additives. But additives may be useful for removing water from the system anyway. Never tried it, but maybe flow can be tested with a bucket.

Never hurts to momentarily pull the 15 Amp ECU fuse to clear the memory and then re-do the two-twists.

i plan to check anything and everything...nevers hurts to do so.

repoe3

[repoe3]

Originally posted by SCOTTinNJ
If they are splitting, they may not be sealing right. This is just my theory, but at slow air velocities, like at idle, air might get through the split. At high air velocities, like when riding, the rushing air could "seal" the split. Maybe that's why you are having problems at idle but not at speed?

I'd just replace them. Any automotive shop should have suitable plugs. In a pinch, just use some tubing and seal the end of that.

yeah, and i actually have some in a box of misc. nipple caps. they just are oh-fish-ule bee-ehm-dubah caps but they will do.

repoe3

[repoe3]

Originally posted by gigantic
REpoe, I've had the same problem on my bike, tb's wouldn't synch, rough idle etc. tried everything but the Lentini method 0=0 tps synch. I've come to the conclusion that it's the cables and bowden box, which I'll replace, one of these days, along with the spark plugs, which are likely fouled from not havng the cat code plug in, 0=0 tps and a dyno tune for the PCIII. fwiw, adding the PCIII did help the rough idle, but I'd hesitate to say that that's the proper solution. Got the cales & box on the work bench, I've just gotta find the time to do it. I'd rather ride than wrench...
Lance

speaking of the cat code plug...has anyone with a twinspark tried that? i did it on the 02 i had and didnt notice anything...but when i pulled it out of the twinspark, she would not even start...meaning, nothing, not even an attempt. put it back in and never thought about it again.

repoe3

[repoe3]

Originally posted by Peter Parts
Plugs foul but the symptoms generally show up when you goose the bike, not at idle which is not challenging even for dirty plugs.

The route to checking zero setting/idle stop begins with measuring the gap because that is a direct test, not a proxy measure. But count to 10 before touching the idle stop which is generally considered reliable and stable from the factory (unless you moved it... like is always done with carbs). Likewise, zero=zero is not a likely suspect. But TBS=.37 CAN get funny if the cables were pulling during the previous setting.

If you inadvertently moved the idle stop, you can "rebuild" the settings.

i, ah, well, maybe i completely removed the right idle stop yesterday in my fiddling. but i was able to "rebuild" so to speak between subtle adjustment and listening for right and left stop taps with the bike off. aside from a higher idle speed, which has been the case for years now, i think i made things better really.

doing all this with the bodywork off does make the job easier, thats for sure.

repoe3

[JonyRR]

hmmm...I don't know why I'm bothering, but here goes.
has the fuel formulation for your geographic area changed somewhat recently?
summer and winter fuel formulations make these things run differently..

[repoe3]

Originally posted by JonyRR
hmmm...I don't know why I'm bothering, but here goes.
has the fuel formulation for your geographic area changed somewhat recently?
summer and winter fuel formulations make these things run differently..

come on jony...your input is valued, for sure. i was just giving you grief yesterday over a few nits and nats...no worries, right?

as for fuel stuff...you betcha, they change that ***** left and right. hence why i try to stick with one provider, for some consistency. recall the ethanol bit earlier? well, we get oxygenated fuels during the winter months. who knows what happens come spring and summer when they thin the mix and increase profit margins


repoe3

[repoe3]

map o' mixes:

[Peter Parts]

Originally posted by repoe3
i, ah, well, maybe i completely removed the right idle stop yesterday in my fiddling. but i was able to "rebuild" so to speak between subtle adjustment and listening for right and left stop taps with the bike off. aside from a higher idle speed, which has been the case for years now, i think i made things better really.

doing all this with the bodywork off does make the job easier, thats for sure.

repoe3

As a shade-tree start, you can make the butterflies return to parity at idle by cranking closed the BBSs then TwinMaxing. This assumes the fuel delivery and other systems are balanced too and you can get it to idle (a temporary shim the thickness of a credit card - I am referring to classic methods here - or half a turn of the screw may help get you into idle territory). But, as I've been saying, using a feeler gauge on the butterflies is the basic starting point in case there are various Gordian knots to untie.

Address idle stop issues first thing in the morning because a number of inter-related things are built on the idle stop position. That's not how things should work but it is the way they do.

[JonyRR]

Don't feel too bad, repoe; I've tuned myself to a standstill before; it happens to the best of us.
Go back.
take a deep breath.
think about the total overall state of affairs and re-start at the beginning; I'll bet you find a mistake or misadjustment somewhere.
The stock state-of-tune of my 99 when I brought it nach hausa from the dealer was absolutely unacceptable and i was almost a suburban hood ornament on the way home.
they don't have to run that way.
I think a trip to wswartzel-world might be in order

[dee jones]

Jony , did you get my PM about the external fuel filter?

[JonyRR]

no, I don't believe so; haven't seen anything in my peli-kan inbox for a fair bit...

[dee jones]

Jony, Just sent PM. Thanks

[JonyRR]

dee; something's off here as I don't see any posts from boarders; try my aol address at:
jonymof@aol.com

[wswartzwel]

Originally posted by JonyRR
.
I think a trip to wswartzel-world might be in order

Ya we don't have any of those fashion designer botique fuels here in Arkansas...

[dee jones]

Oh but you will, and it probabaly won't be long.

[wswartzwel]

Repoe, Come on over to Arkansas, I got the banjo all tuned up, and the spline lube ready. Bring some Chicken Livers with you ....ye-haw!