Help: Fill and Bleed ABS Proceedure & Tricks

[tadIV]

Now that the Speigler lines are ordered I wanted to double check the procedure for filling and bleeding the (ABS II) system. I feel like a dummy asking since I’ve filled and bled so many lines I generally do it in my sleep, but I’ve heard so many stories about having to get this thing right or risk screwing things up. I don’t want to go through all this just to end up having to take her to the dealer and get hosed.

In looking at the manual and the IBMWR pdf file I found, I have some questions.. Is this sequence right? Anything I missed?

- remove calipers – check, clean, etc. At this point the IBMWR guy directs me to remove the pads and insert wood blocks. In the past I have generally filled and bled with the caliper on the bike. Wrong here? Or does the system require that the pistons be completely retracted during the procedure??? The manual appears to require this as well. Dunno...

- Lift tank and attach mityvac to front brake bleeder on the ABS system/ pressure modulator.

- Turn bar and fill master cylinder reservoir. At this stage the IBMWR dude turns on the bike’s ignition to pressurize the system. This step doesn't apply to my bike's system. (?)

- Pump lever and refill res until clear fluid from ABS modulator. Close valve.

- Remove grub screw from left caliper, insert speed bleeder, attach Mityvac, fill and watch res and bleed. (Ignition on??) Remove bleeder, replace grub and proceed to bleed right front.

-Rear, generally same procedure

I’m assuming the full system will be largely empty once I replace the lines. But instead is there fluid remaining in the modulator?

I assume the IBMWR procedure is largely different since I'm with the older ABS 11 system with no integral or servo (I've heard that's the real pain).

Any hints or tricks, or things to avoid aside from the obvious MUCH appreciated.

Sorry for the long post. I just want to get things right. I heard braking's rather important.

Thanks!!!!

t.a.



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2000 R1100SA

[jduke]

I'd leave the calipers on the bike, maybe check your pads while you're there. Since you list a 2000 R1100SA in you post I'm assuming that's the brake system you want to bleed. There will be some fluid in the ABS pump, but with the lines off, you probably will have air in the system so I'd go ahead and bleed the ABS pump, then move to each caliper, watching the fluid level in each res. No need to power on the bike since you don't have the power assisted pump to worry about.
I would also throw away the grub screws and replace them with standard bleeders or the speed bleeders if you want.

[Rapid Dog]

I've done the lines/bleeding thing on my 2001SA and I think you'll be fine. It's much the same as what you're use to, not as involved and ominus as the EVO system.
Get plenty of fresh fluid (quart), and run it thru the system until it's clear and bubble free.
I bought a MightyVac and it helps but kinda over-rated and hard to read as far as the air coming down the tube goes...
A helper to pump and fill the reservoir is a better way IMO.

[ErricZ]

When installing new lines, I always like to pre-fill/pre-bleed them before attaching them to the calipers by sticking the loose end back into the master cylinder and pump until all the air is gone. Saves time if not using the MityVac method.

+1 on the Speed Bleeders.

[tadIV]

Thanks for the responses! You confirmed my suspicions. Dealing with this manner of system for the first time I just wanted to be sure to be sure that there were no nuanced tricky bits before I began stripping hoses. So I guess the block of wood/ BMW tool number xyz to keep the pistons retracted during the process doesn’t apply to my old school ABS?

ErricZ: I will of course offer my reaction to the Spiegler Kit once it arrives. Their kit is a 5 line that considers the front crossover so it’s intended as a direct line replacement ( they agreed with BMW techs not to bypass by running two lines from the ABS mod output). I’m rather curious as to how their line and fittings tie into the bridge provided the nature of the OEM connections – the right side simply crimped (???). I’ll guess I’ll find out soon enough.

Thanks again fellas

Cheers,

t.a.

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2000 R11SA

[tadIV]

Okay…

I’m having a helacious time getting the front brake firm. In fact, the lever squeezes to the hilt with little resistance. The rear brake was a snap.

I replaced the old lines with Spiegler, replaced the pads with ESCs (?) from the dealer, replaced the grub screw with a simple bleeder valve and installed a bleeder at the master cylinder. Fluid is Valvoline SynPower for ABS I started bleeding at the ABS, worked left, then right using first a vac pump and then classis “two-man.” You would have thought the system was dry.

I then worked up, pumping from the right front to the ABS mod, and then pumped from the ABS mod to the master. Since I installed a Speed Bleeder on the left, I capped the master and pumped from the right to the left. At every step the fluid still looked like glass. You can’t tell it’s even being bled from the looks of the bleed tube – it looks that clear.

I know the master can be tricky for stuck gas, but the up-pump and master bleeder valve should have his covered.

I’m d*mn near ready to say “Uncle,” put the bike back together, and using my rear brake, get it to the dealer prepare myself for a Dealer hosing.

I zipped tied the lever for the time being but remain stumped. My reaction is there must be a bubble trapped somewhere but I’ve tried to either vac or pump in every combination I can think of and there’s no hint of one, no telltale micros, nothing but glass.

Any ideas? Something trapped in the mod that won’t show itself? I’m having a beer (or three) and giving-up for the time being.

Thanks,

t.a.

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2000 R1100SA (old ABS II)

[ErricZ]

IIRC, you are supposed to bleed the ABS circuit first -- not sure if it makes a difference in our bikes. I haven't done it in a while, so I can't quite remember. Do you have the service manual PDF?

[tadIV]

Thanks ErricZ and yes I have the manual and followed it. During the additional procedure of reverse bleeding/ pump fill, I reversed this to go from the bottom up. Every way I could figure to go, pushing or pulling, all comes out glass clear. So dunno (BTW: I'm confused and still anoyed and still drinking beer )



Cheers,

t.a.

________________

2000 R1100SA

[ErricZ]

Try tapping the lines and the m/c gently to help release trapped air bubbles. Did you let the zip-tie sit on the lever overnight or just a couple of hours?

[tadIV]

Okay, okay. So I know there’s not a lot of activity on this subject, but in the event someone in the future searches this topic I thought offering some suggestions and providing closure might prove helpful.

- Bleeding this bike one needs the patience of Job. During the time to get this done, I both rebuilt, resprung and installed a Penske shock and installed a slipper-clutch on an RC-51. Sheesh!

- Per usual, remove all bodywork and windshield. Use plastic garbage bags to cover the rest and have water and rags at hand. If replacing the lines and/ or you have considerable air in the system, you do not have to remove the tank to access the ABS mod. Simply remove snorkel and tank bolts, and gently slide the tank backwards, resting it atop the bike.

- Follow the manual. If simply bleeding from the calipers, really keep an eye on the masters. They are small and drain quickly. I used a vacuum pump which I have always found helpful. If drained, consider treating the bleeder valve threads with some Leak-Lock or similar. Otherwise, consider circling the valve with grease - I used Bel Ray marine for the ABS mod bleeders.

- If replacing the lines or the system’s largely drained, might as well replace the right front caliper grub screw with a bleeder valve. But be careful. Mine was loctited.

- It’s common to most bikes, but with this one air really likes to get trapped in the front master. For this reason I STRONGLY recommend replacing the master’s banjo bolt with a bleeder valve. If you don’t have one or are not drained, take a rag and wrap it tightly around banjo fitting, gently squeezing the lever while barely loosening the bolt until fluid begins to soak. Tighten before releasing lever.

- Speedbleeders: I generally like them, but since I had thought I might need to reverse bleed the system, and the check valve doesn’t allow for this procedure, I passed. I’m glad I did. I recommend one for the top master, however.

- I still had issues after the standard bleeding procedure so I reverse pressure fed, reversing the procedure and working up. I use a quality shop syringe and it works quite well. But be careful since this can spurt fluid or otherwise cause the master to overflow. I used the master bleeder valve, so no issue.

- Zip tie the lever. Tight. Overnight. Bleed from the master the next day. If need be, repeat. For the rear, I used zip-ties to hang an anvil off it.

Have lots of new fluid and be patient. I hope this helps. Good luck

Cheers,

t.a.

[Bob Hancock]

t.a. Thanks for taking the time to write it out.