Stuck, need help...

signit98 · 10-02-2006, 08:10 PM

...trying to put the vanderlinde on and I am stuck before I've even begun!

Lugs are off and so is the rear brake caliper... wheel does not want to budge... I do not want to use excessive force... am I missing something???

ckcarr · ckcarr's Garage

You have to lift the wheel off the ground.

Or try gentle taps with a rubber head mallet.

signit98 · 10-02-2006, 09:11 PM

...wheel was clear off the ground... I tried not-so-gentle taps with a piece of 2 x 4 and it came off... rust was the culprit

Cleaned that off and went on to remove the bolts that hold the headers to the cat. %$@#^$@#!%$#

I'd like to see those engineers work on their crap for once... the inner bolts are nearly impossible to reach with normal tools and when I used a slightly longer extension on my allen wrench. the ballhead broke off in the screw...

So far, so good... took the dremel and started to cut the screwhead off (don't need the anymore for the new setup!)... and then the dremel said goodbye with a loud pop and some gentle blue smoke...

I am going home now and I am going to have a cerveza... or two!

Wednesday is another day for that project... maybe then, with a new dremel and renewed trust (including the manual which is on the computer at home!) in my abilities... maybe then, it will all work out!

Thank you ckarr!

ckcarr · ckcarr's Garage

Make sure you don't screw up the O2 sensor wires when removing. It can be easy to tear them off the sensor, then its $160 for a new one. Ask how I know this... I recommend taking the body panel off and unplugging.

Then you get to actually removing the mufflers from under the seat...

To keep rust out you need a Haynes wheel cap.

signit98 · 10-02-2006, 10:21 PM

...you are funny!

I do actually have another O2 sensor ready to go, should one fail... yet, I overlooked such minor things as having two dremels!

Go figure...

Btw. is there anything I need to watch out for when removing the muffler from under the seat?... do I need to remove the tail section or such?... have not taken a closer look yet!

Thanks

Tirebiter · 10-03-2006, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by signit98
...wheel was clear off the ground... I tried not-so-gentle taps with a piece of 2 x 4 and it came off... rust was the culprit

I use a little trick that we used in the BMW cage shop years ago to keep corrosion from causing the alloy wheels from sticking to the steel hubs (remember chemisty class and how dissimilar metals can set up electrical pathways and corrosion?). Coat the hub on surfaces where it mates with the wheel with a thin layer of anti-seize and the wheel will never stick again.

Brock

Trex · 10-03-2006, 06:51 AM

Search for previous posts regarding muffler removal. The can have a rubber grommet that fits over round metal tabs that face rearward. That rubber can stick. Squirk some WD-40 into those seals to loosen them up. Then the cans slip off (backward)

signit98 · 10-03-2006, 07:32 AM

...I did clean the rust and wiped the surfaces with WD40 for now... being that I had to out the darn thing back together for the ride home...

I'll keep the anti-seize bit in mind for Wednesday (the next try on said project)... one other thing I will from now on out (based on my findings) is to regularly remove and clean the lugs... they were very rusty as well... not a good thing!

...the funny thing with searching the board for anything is the wording... I tried a few searches before I posted for help... with mixed results... ah well, it worked out for now.

Thanks again, folks

foobeemer · 10-03-2006, 07:41 AM

Dremel cutoff wheels are good for cutting soft butter and even then they only last about .06 seconds.

signit98 · 10-03-2006, 07:48 AM

LOL... I've actually been doing fairly well, it depends which ones you are using... if yoou use the thin wafers, yes... but I have been using some .060 industrial cut-off wheels and they work well... one wheel is more than fine for two screws!

Rapid Dog · 10-03-2006, 10:45 AM

...justmake sure you're happy with your rear shock as it is sig-dude...otherwise, you'll have to go thru the process again to remove the shock bolt on the bottom...
Sliding the muffs up onto the hanger can be bear-ish, but a ittle lube on the rubber grommets can help.
Make sure everything is lined up up top and on the bottom hanger before tightening the collector fasteners....and use fresh stainless allen screws if you haven't already got them.

signit98 · 10-03-2006, 11:38 AM

...happy as in "it's performance", Rapido??? Yes, I am... particulary in light of the cost of possible replacements I AM!

Actually, I have no issues whatsoever with the suspension on my bike... I have very few issues with the bike period... the exhaust is just a matter of me playing around (yeah, I know... like I am the only one who's motivation that is) and so where the graphics and other things I am playing with (standard electrical outlets, switches etc.).

At this point, I don't have the slightest clue how to get the mufflers out from underneath the seat... but I figure if I manage that, I should be able to put the "new" ones in...

I've got to go and get the allen fasteners... I might go and get hex heads, just because it's been such a pain to reach the upper two allen heads with what I have... on the other hand, now that the chunky cat will be gone, I could approach from the other side which would make things easier... hmmm

You guys might see another cry for help on Wednesday night...

foobeemer · 10-03-2006, 11:54 AM

Yes, you have Der Dutchman engineers to thank for that left side upper cat bolt location. You need either a ball end allen key or a 6 inch long shaft key to score that f'n bolt. Hex head switchouts would be a great idea come to think of it.....

signit98 · 10-03-2006, 12:20 PM

...I tried ball-end... and as a result, the ball part is now stuck in the allen head of the screw! Hence the "dremel episode"...

foobeemer · 10-03-2006, 12:31 PM

Oh sorry. I feel your pain. I even stripped out the lower one on the left side--except I stripped a cat elim pipe. DOH! Now I get the pleasure of holding that side with 2 nuts on the back of a longer bolt. The ball thingy is only good for a couple uses--I think it compromises the inside of the bolt head and itself as well. I have never gotten a long shank allen key--that would be the next best thing to changing out to a hex head like you say. Good luck!!!!

btw--the cans are only hanging on by 2 posts under your seat--slide them backwards and they will drop off, then hang by the plate light wiring--so be careful to take the strain off the wiring until you can get them completely free. Make sure the grommets come off with the cans and don't stay stuck to the posts. Most likely they will come off still inside the mounting rings.

Rapid Dog · 10-03-2006, 12:54 PM

...im'a justa sayin' I have the Vander and once you've installed it for get about removing the rear shock to upgrade as the bottom bolt will hit the pipe when you go to remove it...hence you gotta remove the exhaust first...****za!

signit98 · 10-03-2006, 01:02 PM

...I like the german accent in your cartoon, Randy... I am still laughing about the "rehnbow schprinkles"

Yeah, we love those, don't we now?

Dingo Joe · 10-04-2006, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by signit98
...I tried ball-end... and as a result, the ball part is now stuck in the allen head of the screw! Hence the "dremel episode"...

BEWARE BALL END ALLEN WRENCHES!

They are not designed for heavy loads of torque. They are best used for after the bolt has been broken free and for inserting the bolt before a final torque. Also, the ball end can cause rounding of the insert portion of the bolt. I rarely use my ball end allens...

signit98 · 10-04-2006, 06:43 AM

Well, there is no danger of me using that one again!...

spikethebike · 10-04-2006, 01:55 PM

For that upper header/cat elim. bolt, I took a 5mm 3/8 drive allen/socket and cut the allen part down to 8mm long, then ground the base of the socket to a fairly short taper. It then fits the bolt and can be driven with a short extension on a ratchet.