O2 Sensor Wire Splicing

[xk49]

I'm finally getting rid of the stock cat and cans and replacing them with a TBR system. Everything came off fine except for the two of the flange bolts which snapped trying to take off the cat and the O2 sensor. I just couldn't get the darn O2 sensor to come off, even after a heavy dose of PB. In frustration, I just pulled back the protective sheath of the O2 wires and cut the wires. Once I had the cat out I could get better leverage on the sensor and while standing on the cat, it finally broke it free.

Now, rather then just splicing the wires back together, I was thinking of using some sort of quick disconnect for all four wires, so the next time I have to remove the collector pipe(looking for a shock upgrade in the near future) I can just disconnect the the wires and remove the O2 sensor in a much more convenient place.

Can I use your standard automotive wire connects? Is the O2 system so sensitive that using a connector could mess up the system? If I can use some sort of quick connection set up, does anyone know of the best ones to use?

[RoundelRider]

I guess it would work using small enough pins in the connector.
Ive built connectors before but I had the new pins, pin crimpers, and rubber plugs that would go in the backside of the conector that helps make it waterproof.

FWIW I think something off a Honda would work excellent. The plastic dosent get brittle and very well made (unlike domestic and German connectors)

[R111S]

Your local Caterpillar Dealer will have the Bullet Proof "DT" Series of Connectors in 2, 3, 4, 8, and 12 Terminal Versions. Cat offers Gold Plated Pins/Sockets too or you can use the less expensive Nickel Plated versions.

Be sure to get the pin/sockets sized for 16-18 AWG Wire. The connector bodies are sealed against fire hose spray and will operate in -40 to +120 C environments. We've used them on our Cat Off-Highway Equipment for many years now...they're Cat Tough!

Your local Cat Dealer is "Milton Cat". They have branch stores all over the northeast coast.

Scroll down to the "Parts..." for name and telephone.
http://milton.cat.com/dsf/contact

http://www.deutschipd.com/Products/DT_Series/dt_assembly.html

[boxercup]

Greetings,

In this case we can learn something. It can be fixed with generic electric crimps>or a Radio Shack item. Seal the open ends with silicone and tape.

To avoid this be advised that you should trace the o2 wire harness up to the gas tank and disconnect the barrel connector and thread the wire down to the o2 sensor. This way there is no need for cutting and another operation.

Best!

Enjoy youe "S"!

[Moybin]

Instead of using electrical tape and silicone, use heat shrink tubing. You will have bare wires so you can get a chose fit. If you can find the extreme environment type heat shrink, use that. It has a gooey inner layer that flows and seals watertight.

When I swapped my sensor (it was dead) I used a Bosch that did not have the correct plug, so I spliced into the Bosch wiring with the old sensor's cable. This gave me an extra 8 inches or so of cable to work with, which is nice later on. No problems, and I didn't have the super heat shrink, just the regular stuff.

If possible, take photos of your installation. I posted mine here like 2 years ago, so don't know if you can find it or not.

[boxercup]

Good Moybin!

Just make sure the wires are soldered.

[roger albert]

Yes, you really should use solder rather than crimps in this application. Remember, the real signal if interest is under 1V, and the connections will live not far away from moisture and heat. Not a good scenario for crimps (though I"m sure they'd work, for at least a while)

[RoundelRider]

There are solder ring butt connectors. They have a ring of solder (duah!) inside a tube of heat shrink. Pass the bare wires next to each other and use a heat gun to solder and shrink-wrap at the same time.

Quick, easy, and almost fool proof!

Similar to these.......

[Moybin]

Yes, solder is the way to go. There are 4 wires: 1-white, 1-black, 2-gray. The gray do not have polarity if I recall correctly. Just solder them together. But white to white, black to black.

If you slip a large diameter piece of heat shrink over all 4 leads you can put in a second layer of protection.

[roger albert]

Those solder-filled shrink connectors are pretty poor.
They very often leave joints that look OK, but are fairly poor.
They violate the first rule of soldering, which is that the underlying
metal should be hot enough to heat the solder and cause it to flow and give good wetting. These, instead, see the solder melt (and sometimes the insulation) before the underlying conductors ever achieve the right temp. They're not absolute crap, but they're poor, misleading, and give a false sense of having made a quality joint. I can't tell you how many of these I've had to pull out and replace. They border on snakeoil.

[RoundelRider]

Roger, I understand what your saying about the correct temp, I have never had a issue with these type

Ill have to check them out a little closer.

[roger albert]

I hear you. They work fine sometimes. As do wires simply twisted together by hand. But I've learned not to count on either.