Idle actuators VS me VS R12S

[tm1100s]

Maybe I missed something, again.

But why is it that BMW didn't include the function to automatically do a calibration every 10 or 25 or 50 startups? Or whenever one actuator was temporarily disconnected. Or if the battery is disconnected. Or if you flash the high beam 3 times and then turn on the right turn signal. Or if you.....ahh, you get the point.

[SergioK]

Interesting, my HP2 Sport does this every now and again... though it seems it's only at idle and doesn't really affect anything. But I suspect BMW never really got the idle right on the bike because it at times dies when coming to a stop. The R1200GS doesn't do this though. Not sure if they use the same actuators or not.

[shreddr]

Originally Posted by SergioK

Interesting, my HP2 Sport does this every now and again... though it seems it's only at idle and doesn't really affect anything. But I suspect BMW never really got the idle right on the bike because it at times dies when coming to a stop. The R1200GS doesn't do this though. Not sure if they use the same actuators or not.

i think the larger throttle body bores of the R12S and HP2S might make idle a little more sensitive on those bikes.

[chewie]

any chance that someone could post a pic of taking out the idle actuators and showing how to cycle them as per Owens post?

[peter f]

Originally Posted by tm1100s

But why is it that BMW didn't include the function to automatically do a calibration every 10 or 25 or 50 startups? Or whenever one actuator was temporarily disconnected. Or if the battery is disconnected. Or if you flash the high beam 3 times and then turn on the right turn signal. Or if you.....ahh, you get the point.

Well, rumor is that if you switch on/off (don't start the engine) the bike 3 times the BMS-K can calibrate these idiotic "valves" (you can listen to that step motor noise that occurs in 1st and 2nd time but not in 3rd).

But in my case the malfunction is due to badly machined throttle bodies that cause eccentric fatigue to these #$^%@$ idle pistons. Exactly the same case as in Dave Bowen bike.

Chances for BMW to cover this under an expired warranty? Less than 0.00034%.

Chances for me to buy another boxer? Less than 0.00056%.

[Flay]

Hmm, tomorrow my R1200S is going into the shop because of poor idling and occasional stalling issues.

Anything besides this causing similar symptoms?

[peter f]

Originally Posted by Flay

Hmm, tomorrow my R1200S is going into the shop because of poor idling and occasional stalling issues.

Anything besides this causing similar symptoms?

Fast problem tracking (after checking coils, plugs, TPS, sync state etc etc) :

1. remove the rubber air intake trumpets (and Rapidbike L micro chips if installed - that is: go for the OEM L sensors). Put the ADORI module and deactivate Rabidbike, if installed.

2. plug in some throttle bodies sync device (digital read out a must).

3. unscrew both idle actuators and check (turn ignition on/off) that the pistons extend and retract (although this is only a rough indication of what's going on). Note: special tool is required (torx with hole).

4. start testing and use an infra red gun to measure exhaust header temperature (should be in a 5 oC max difference - a greater value indicates rich/lean difference due to differences in idle piston position).

5. if necessary use your finger to "disturb" the idle piston up-down movement (if it doesn't reset chances are that this is the faulty thing).

6. ....

PS1 : Throttle Body Sync using GS-911 - BMWSportTouring Forums

PS2: see Don Eilenberger reply

[roger albert]

Interesting thead here, and the one on the referenced list. Eilenberger has it spot on.
Amusingly, I note pp/bb is over there spewing bad information again. You can lead a horse to a different pond...

[zx9rmal]

I had the same problem when I had my R12S. Damn BMW! What the hell was wrong with the old style T-Bodies with air screws. Why are they always fixing ***** that ain't broken?!?!!

[peter f]

Originally Posted by zx9rmal

Why are they always fixing ***** that ain't broken?!?!!

It's the kids in kindergarten syndrome, I suspect.

I'm that close to start thinking the legendary Keihin FCR "option" (I hate fuel injection when nothing works and nobody knows why).

FCR Carburetor

On the other hand, why bother? Sell the ugly bike and find some piece in mind.

He He

[Flay]

Got the bike back this morning (after a full service in addition to looking at my stalling problem) and took it for a quick 100km spin. Seems to run well. I was told the fuel injectors were clogging up. One has been swapped out and a request has gone into BMW to get two new ones on there. Apparently they are "scored" from previous cleanings and this will re-occur. Finger's crossed.

But a weird thing happened shortly after I tucked the bike away in the garage on the sidestand. Suddenly I was taken back to breakfasts as a child. The sound of my English mother's sizzling sausage repasts. Complete deja vu.

Turns out it was coming from the right cylinder. OK, first to admit I know sod all about these bikes, but that's never certainly never happened before on any vehicle I've owned. Lasted about 30 seconds or so before dying down.

Sausages served!

Originally Posted by peter f

Fast problem tracking (after checking coils, plugs, TPS, sync state etc etc) :

[BikerMiker]

Is this still an open issue?

I'm having the same problem (everything stock). It's not bad until the engine completely warms up. I'm starting with new plugs tonight and going from there to the actuators....

[peter f]

Originally Posted by BikerMiker

Is this still an open issue?

I'm having the same problem (everything stock). It's not bad until the engine completely warms up. I'm starting with new plugs tonight and going from there to the actuators....

Of course it is (like the Phoenix - resurrects any time).

New winter schema : Bike starts (it's a miracle after all !) > idle goes up to 2K > steady > a bit later (say, half a minute) > no idle at all.

It's variation N56 I guess. But...should I bother?

Moral: Karma.

[peter f]

PS: Amuse yourself with the "analytical" way to locate the problem: The greatest puzzle (R12S idle)

Moral: Karma

[BikerMiker]

Originally Posted by peter f

PS: Amuse yourself with the "analytical" way to locate the problem: The greatest puzzle (R12S idle)

Moral: Karma

****

[BikerMiker]

Peter... I don't think my issue is nearly as bad as yours (yet?). That's terrible. Sorry.

I took the bike out for lunch to get new plugs and I let it warm up really good while I was getting my stuff (my problem starts when the bike reach's max operating temperature) . On the way back to work it started idling rough until parked it, turned the key on/off a few times and restarted it. It idled fine after that.

I'm going to clean the actuators and correct me if I'm wrong but they are held in place with a security torx bit top of the throttle body? Thanks for everyone's help.

[peter f]

Originally Posted by BikerMiker

and correct me if I'm wrong but they are held in place with a security torx bit top of the throttle body?

You are correct - have you the proper torx with the hole?

PS: That "rough" operation is present (at times) as well > the old goat is running in 2, then in 1.5, then 1.23, then 1.07, then 2 cylinders etc etc etc. Restarting the engine sometimes cures the problem, sometimes not. What a crappy thing.

As I said what makes me crazy is a FI engine that doesn't work properly whilst no one knows the reason.

[BikerMiker]

Switched out the plugs from the NGK EKC's to the EIX's and that seemed to have solved it... or the spot of techron... or the switching of the ignition on/off... very unscientific.

I do have that torx bit. I work in the A/V industry so I have all sorts of odd bits laying around. If it acts up again I'm going to take out those actuators clean them. If I unplug them or replace them myself is it necessary to recalibrate the stepper motor or did I misread that portion of the thread completely? Or was that somewhere else....

[2wheelmike]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned in this thread so far (I think) is to check the stupid rubber covers on the throttle synch ports. I had two different types on my bike, one a sort of neoprene rubber with squared off end (right cylinder shape). The other more like a vinyl rubber/plastic (with rounded hemispherical shape). I've only been able to find the crappy vinyl replacement ones at the local parts store. The vinyl-like ones get cracked after a year or so of exposure to heat, etc. and leak. This was the cause of slightly off-song condition of my bike the last time I prepped it for a track day. Check these buggers carefully and if anyone knows where to get good ones that last, please post.

[cageyar]

I tried to get a second squared off sync port cap for the left bank after I removed the canister and related tubing.
Apparently, it's not available separately. The only part shown in the BMW micro-fice is the rounded type cap, so I bought two of those so they match.
It was a little annoying not being able to get the original cap-here's the only part number available which is the rounded type: