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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 3
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R1100S ignition key stuck - in fork lock position
I have just gotten a 2003 R1100S. I have ridden it some, but last weekend I started it, let it idle for a bit, then turned it off. Later I noticed that the rear light was on. So was the 'parking' light. When I tried to turn the key, it will not move. The forks were in the locked position, so there is no getting it onto a trailer for service. I disconnected the battery so that it didn't just bleed the battery to nothing.
So far I have: - flooded the lock with a graphite suspension stuff - no help - wiggled the forks - no help - blew compressed air into the cylinder to see if it could dislodge anything - nope - removed the ignition switch (electrical) to see if I could wiggle the end of the lock. I can, but it doesn't rotate. - I understand that I will need to drill and EZ-out the screws into the lock, but my worry is can I remove it while the fork is locked? The weather is mild, it has remained in the garage, so nothing catastrophic happened (other than I can't ride it!). Are there any suggestions for how to proceed? Are there any suggestions for how to remove the lock cylinder? Thanks, Chris |
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Moderator
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Austin, TX. USA
Posts: 11,605
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Wish I could help. Had it happen to a customer RS once. I played with it a few minutes at a time for days and the key finally came out, but steering head remained locked. Then had to get a lock that did housecalls involved. Wasn't cheap either, as I recall. HOpe your luck is better than mine.
Good luck!
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99 R11S w/ BBP, InDuct, Öhlins, PVMs, Braking, SJ-Filter, ZTech, HIDs D675 R90Cafe R60/2 M900 SV650-SS CBR150R XR125 & CRF175 Motards OnRoad OffRoad Cycles, Austin, TX: BMW, Ital, Suspension, Electrics Dealer for K-Tech, JRI, GP Suspension, Penske, Öhlins, RaceTech, Elka, Wilbers, IKON & Works www.ororcycle.com CMRA EXPERT #841 Various Formula 5, 6 & 7 championships 2006-2012 A3, Navigator, |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 188
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Try holding the forks over to the left firmly as far as they will go (to release and tension from the fork lock mechanism) and see if it will rotate then. Mine is way easier to use doing this.
Also try a light tap on the lock with a metal object or hammer to create a "shock" to possibly release. Have you tried pushing down on the key when attempting to turn? |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 3
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I have tried light tapping. I was thinking of getting something of a vibrator to be more aggressive with it.
It doesn't seem to be in tension - I can move the forks a slight amount. It is just so weird. Worked one minute, then acts as though it is a different key. I can remove the key, jiggle it, try pushing down - so far no luck. I am ever hopeful, though. Every day I try again. Drat! I don't want to dismantle the front end just to release it all. Keep those cards and letters coming. Any idea is worth trying, I say. Chris |
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No try, do or not do
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if you take the top triple clamp off, wouldn't that release the lock? It's not easy to do but within most shade tree capability.
MotoYoyo Clamps Installed
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2017 R1200GSW Rallye Shreddr Signature Model Last edited by shreddr; 11-12-2011 at 08:54 AM.. |
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Gasteropod Rider
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Try to turn the key while pulling or pushing the key. Don't gorilla it, the key can break.
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Glenview,IL,USA
Posts: 150
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shredder is right, You will have to replace the lock, pull off hte top clamp and drill out the bolts, the new lock will have new keys Something similar happened to me a couple of years ago, my problem was the key was stuck in the lock, sometimes it would turn sometimes not but I couldn't remove it. There are some fiddly bits taking the thing apart but nothing really dificult. good luck
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chuck R1100S in DDP occasionally with tremoleaner attached, '00 K12LT, '85K100RS I gotta sell, '83 Triumph TSS, Honda C70 passport and a few more old bikes, also more cars than I should have |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 3
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Finally got the lock assembly out. Had to drill the 1-way screws and use an extractor to remove them. What was key to this (no pun...) was realizing that the screws were held in with Loc-Tite. When I could not budge the screws at all, I tried heating the clamp / key / ignition with a hair dryer. Took some time, since the aluminum is a wonderful heatsink. Anyway, that allowed me to remove the screws, and then there was enough slop in the fork lock to allow me to take the cylinder down and out.
Thanks for the replies and assistance. |
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