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Front Rotor Runout Limits?

Hi Guys,

I am trying to solve a problem with my R1100S shuddering under braking. I bought a fancy dial gauge and it appears that I have about 2/1000 runout on one caliper, and little or none on the other. My manual doesn't mention a spec for runout on the caliper, only minimum thickness. Is 2/1000 on a caliper significant, or do I need to look elsewhere?

Thanks,

Jim Moore

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Jim Moore
Jax, FL
'01 R1100S
'07 CBR600RR
Old 12-06-2011, 11:50 AM
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unsafe at any speed
 
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A few people have had good results just cleaning the rotors with a hone. Fits in a drill with dingleberry stones on the end of a wire. Google brake disk hone and you should find what you need.
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Bill Swartzwelder
2002 R1100S Prep/ 2024 Tenere 700
Old 12-06-2011, 12:03 PM
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I would hardly call 0.005mm significant on anything bolted to a motorcycle.
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BMW R1100S 'Bumble Bee' | HyperPro 3D F&R | motoyoyo clamps | Staintune | some other bits
BMW K1200S 'tri-color ICBM' | WP ESA rebuild to specifications | lots of other bits

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Old 12-06-2011, 12:05 PM
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I jsut checked the rotors on my CBR (which works perfectly). They're about 10/1000. I think the rotors on the S are fine. Whew!
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Jim Moore
Jax, FL
'01 R1100S
'07 CBR600RR
Old 12-06-2011, 12:31 PM
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This reminds me of a BMW Motorrad engineer who once said about our beloved boxers: we never had issues with engines overheating, until we started to include oil temperature meters.
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BMW R1100S 'Bumble Bee' | HyperPro 3D F&R | motoyoyo clamps | Staintune | some other bits
BMW K1200S 'tri-color ICBM' | WP ESA rebuild to specifications | lots of other bits

http://www.sport-touring.eu | http://eurotravel.photos
Old 12-06-2011, 12:43 PM
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I had brake shuddering. It came from a bent front rim. It is also known to occur with shot front wheel bearings, or incorrectly tightened front axle (you need to pump the front suspension with brake applied before tightening the lower alen bolts on the fork bottoms, as per manual instructions).

Fixing wheel geometry has solve all and any brake shuddering without even honing the brake rotors.
Old 12-06-2011, 02:07 PM
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Thanks Meeni. I'm getting some new tires this week so I'll check out all that stuff.
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Jim Moore
Jax, FL
'01 R1100S
'07 CBR600RR
Old 12-07-2011, 01:36 AM
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unsafe at any speed
 
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If that doesn't solve your brake shuddering try this thread.

Brake maitenance or warped rotors my a$$

over time brake pad material builds up on the rotor and needs to be cleaned off.
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Bill Swartzwelder
2002 R1100S Prep/ 2024 Tenere 700
Old 12-07-2011, 05:13 AM
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Runout can cause a high speed pulse, but THICKNESS differential will cause one at all speeds and much more noticeable.

The caliper has the capability of moving laterally with a warp, so it masks run out.
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Richard 2010 F800GS '04 R11BXA, '01 F650GS, '98 CBR600F3 track bike, '75 RE-5, '76 RE-5, '81 GS400E.
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:55 AM
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How does the caliper move laterally on the R1100S?


Quote:
Originally Posted by PFFOG View Post
Runout can cause a high speed pulse, but THICKNESS differential will cause one at all speeds and much more noticeable.

The caliper has the capability of moving laterally with a warp, so it masks run out.
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Bill Swartzwelder
2002 R1100S Prep/ 2024 Tenere 700
Old 12-07-2011, 06:08 AM
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and sometimes "a little dab will do ya".

where the piston heads meet the back of the brake pad, put a dab of vaseline on there.
tends to keep things well shimmed and encourages wiggle room.
also attracts brake dust, so you need to get in there, clean and re-dab.

compressing the fork legs with the caliper bolts, axle and axle clamps snug, but not tight. i do a few pulls, then get them almost bottomed out using tie-down straps. zip-tie the front brake halfway pulled, then tighten the caliper bolts, axle and finally the clamps.
release the straps, release the hounds, see if it helps.
this procedure works really well with regular guy forks, but it's not quite as life changing on a bmw, since the front end is all that wizzy-wig anti-dive.
Old 12-07-2011, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wswartzwel View Post
How does the caliper move laterally on the R1100S?
I stand corrected, thinking about my cars and the wife's 650. Needed another cup of coffee to wake up the brain after a late night.
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Richard 2010 F800GS '04 R11BXA, '01 F650GS, '98 CBR600F3 track bike, '75 RE-5, '76 RE-5, '81 GS400E.
Also residing in the barn my son's bikes:
'89 GS500ES, Ducati Monster 620 dark

Last edited by PFFOG; 12-07-2011 at 07:07 AM..
Old 12-07-2011, 07:04 AM
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Gasteropod Rider
 
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Reasoning still works though. The calipers are fixed, but the disk is floating on its bolts. Not much, but you can try yourself, you'll see you can move it by hand and feel the spring washer pushing back. If your hand can, the piston can too

Usual brake cleaner and moderate buffing with 200 grit usually cleans pad deposit. Especially useful after fixing wheel geometry to see instant improvement. Otherwise it may take some time to even out the rotors. Careful, after cleanup, the brakes are not operating normally and need to be "set-in" again before braking power returns.
Old 12-07-2011, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradzdotcom View Post
and sometimes "a little dab will do ya". put a dab of vaseline on there. tends to keep things well shimmed and encourages wiggle room. also you need to get in there, clean and re-dab. snug, but not tight this procedure works really well with regular guys, but it's not quite life changing since the front end is all wizzy-wig
There better now!
Old 12-07-2011, 07:32 AM
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Huh?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wswartzwel View Post
If that doesn't solve your brake shuddering try this thread.

Brake maitenance or warped rotors my a$$

over time brake pad material builds up on the rotor and needs to be cleaned off.
Yet more maintenance I feel guilty about, for not doing it...

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Lars Pedersen
2002 R1100S Prep, still soldiering on. Need to ride it more.
1970 Ford Bronco, far from stock; 2005 Subaru Outback wagon, departed, don't miss it. Replaced by The Storm Trooper, AKA a bone white 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee Upland.
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:46 PM
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