Cam Sprocket Bolt Removal - Page 4

phoenixtexoma · 07-12-2012, 01:49 PM

Robert: Here's the left floorboard, has done wonders for my stenosis. Keep the laffter to a minimum, they work great.

sgoodwin · sgoodwin's Garage

I'm surprised they don't rotate around with any weight on them even with those clamps.

Guest24 · 07-12-2012, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phoenixtexoma

Robert: Here's the left floorboard, has done wonders for my stenosis. Keep the laffter to a minimum, they work great.

The FLR1100S.

phoenixtexoma · 07-12-2012, 04:45 PM

I used Locktite Green (connecting rod stuff), and they don't move at all. Allows me to extend my legs periodically and the pain disappears. They can be moved up to a vertical position. Non-BMW riders don't even notice them as aftermarket. With 0000 steel wool and Mother's polish, the scratches pretty much disappear from the ceramic coating. It's either this, 4 wheels or a Honda Shadow. I won't sit still for the price of a Harley.

phoenixtexoma · 07-12-2012, 04:46 PM

Hmm, the FLR1100S...very funny and very original. A tip of my hat to you.

Guest24 · 07-12-2012, 04:50 PM

But, if it keeps ya ridin' it's worth the laughs you might get. I still rest my legs up on the jugs.

phoenixtexoma · 07-12-2012, 04:57 PM

Admittedly, I'm weird. Have a stock on my Mini-14 made of Carpathian Burl.

Phil Y · 07-12-2012, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nail24

But, if it keeps ya ridin' it's worth the laughs you might get. I still rest my legs up on the jugs.

What Nail24 said! That's all that counts! Have you considered a different beemer? RT seating is far more upright with feet forward.

Phil Y · 07-12-2012, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phoenixtexoma

Admittedly, I'm weird. Have a stock on my Mini-14 made of Carpathian Burl.

PT, that's beautiful wood. Pls post a wider shot. No pun intended!!

Guest24 · 07-13-2012, 04:55 AM

Phil, I've had a RT and a GS. On the Islands, you'll be happier with the GS because the RT keeps far too much wind off your body. Besides, the GS makes you look and feel 10 years younger. That's why all the Pelicans seem to be turning into Adv Riders. lol

Noblehops · 07-13-2012, 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phoenixtexoma

Robert: Here's the left floorboard, has done wonders for my stenosis. Keep the laffter to a minimum, they work great.

+1, if that lets you keep riding, I'm all for it.

N.

lennie · 07-14-2012, 06:12 PM

Phil,

have you done anything about the sprocket bolts yet?

sgoodwin · sgoodwin's Garage

Sprockets & bolts? I thought we were talking about floorboards & mini 14 wood.

lennie · 07-14-2012, 08:54 PM

It was a thread on cam sprocket bolts but it magically morphed into a floorboard thread. Sorry to upset the flow.

Phil Y · 07-15-2012, 09:23 AM

Lennie, I am in the process of acquiring tools necessary to proceed. Will advise.

The floorboards and burl were a nice digression. Still waiting to see a wider pic of the Mini 14 stock!

Phil Y · 07-16-2012, 11:56 PM

OK, I think I have everything I need to try one more time. Got replacement bolts, Sears damaged nut removers (external), made a pin from a 3/8X5 inch bolt to lock the flywheel, and will soak overnight with penetrating oil (can't hurt, right?). Final question: since there's probably no thread lock on the bolt, heat or not heat? Since there's no thread lock, wouldn't heat make the bolt bigger/tighter? If heat, why, how much is enough and how will I know w/o a fancy, $$$, digital thermometer??

kpolito99 · 07-17-2012, 05:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Y

OK, I think I have everything I need to try one more time. Got replacement bolts, Sears damaged nut removers (external), made a pin from a 3/8X5 inch bolt to lock the flywheel, and will soak overnight with penetrating oil (can't hurt, right?). Final question: since there's probably no thread lock on the bolt, heat or not heat? Since there's no thread lock, wouldn't heat make the bolt bigger/tighter? If heat, why, how much is enough and how will I know w/o a fancy, $$$, digital thermometer??

The heat serves to increase the spacing between the fastener and the receiving threads. All threaded fasteners have a class or tightness of the fit tolerance. The more precisely a fastener is manufactured the higher the cost and better performance.

Many heavy loaded mechanical assemblies are held together by fastened joints under preload. Preloading or stressing the fasteners close to their elastic limit (cylinder head studs are a good example) makes for a very strong joint in which the fasteners will most likely not fail based upon the torsional loads caused by the cam chain.

Anywho - heating the fastener and surrounding area will expand the gap between the camshaft threads and bolt threads in a manner similar to photographic expansion. The idea is that the material of the receiving threads will grow at a greater rate than the bolt.

Try to apply heat around base of the bolt head against the cam gear and not necessary directly on the bolt itself. Heat transfer will do the work and with any luck the increase in fastener spacing will permit you to easily back out the bolt.

On assemblies where I am not concerned with melting plastics or rubber I have often used a hand held propane torch to flash the parts for about 30-45 seconds. You do not want to heat the fastener a lot, more precisely the general area in which the fastener is engaged.

Noblehops · 07-17-2012, 05:06 AM

That was a really helpful explanation k, much appreciated.

N.

kpolito99 · 07-17-2012, 09:05 AM

Glad I could help. My mechanics of materials professor taught me that trick while in engineering school and I heat fasteners all the time if they do not break loose easily.

Haven't had to use an easy out in quite a while.

Phil Y · 07-17-2012, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kpolito99

The heat serves to increase the spacing between the fastener and the receiving threads. All threaded fasteners have a class or tightness of the fit tolerance. The more precisely a fastener is manufactured the higher the cost and better performance. . .

Try to apply heat around base of the bolt head against the cam gear and not necessary directly on the bolt itself. Heat transfer will do the work and with any luck the increase in fastener spacing will permit you to easily back out the bolt. . .

You do not want to heat the fastener a lot, more precisely the general area in which the fastener is engaged.

Really appreciate your explanation. I couldn't understand how heating the bolt itself would help (the bolt should expand when heated, right?) My concern is that the bolt is fastened into the camshaft itself: between the camshaft and any heat I can apply is a large washer and the cam sprocket--some distance for heat to transfer.

What do you think of heating the general area and putting an ice cube on the bolt head immediately before trying to extract it?