LED blinker problem

[mdsnj]

Anyone have this happen? I have Hornig LED license plate and blinker set on my R1200S. Was on it when I bought it 2 yrs ago. Right side just stopped working 100%. It blinks faster and much dimmer then the left side. Any suggestions on what could have happened? Any help would be great.

[Kevin8]

I have the same hornig bracket with LED signals. I believe the signals are actually Kellerman branded, I just replaced one recently. Anyway, you need to add a resistor on the wire to the signals. I picked up ceramic resistors at radio shack; 8ohm/20W, I believe. I only had problems on one side and thoughtlessly only added 1 resistor. Sure enough, about a year later the other side stops working and I was getting a LAMPF! warning on my dash. Had to just do the opposite side in the last couple months. If you search I think you will find my thread from last year to confirm the right size resistor for the job.

It's should be an easy fix.

Kevin M.
2010 s1000rr
2007 r1200s

[Kevin8]

The moral of my story is - do both sides while you're at it.

Kevin M.

2010 s1000rr
2007 r1200s

[mdsnj]

Thanks alot for the help. What a relief, thought I would have to buy new blinkers.

[Kevin8]

Yes, the resistors cost about 2$.....but those Kellerman Micro LED stalks cost 80$, plus shipping. There's no way to replace a bulb.

Just take the whole bracket apart to get good access to the wires and use snap-on wire tappers to connect the resistors in line with the hot wire for each signal. Since the LEDs draw such low power, the bike thinks the bulb is out. The resistor ups the load on the circuit to the normal level of an incandescent bulb and everything works as it should. Buy some extra wire so you will have long enough leads off the resistor so you can tuck them somewhere secure and where their heat won't be an issue. They get hot as they do their job.

Kevin M.

2010 s1000rr
2007 r1200s

[mdsnj]

Well of course I have a bad signal. Oh well let's see what ends up on her.
This is just the best motorcycle I have ridden. No blinker no problem

[brentw1]

yea the resistors is why I havent changed my bulbs to leds.
the correct fix is to change the current sensor in the turn signal relay
which just snaps open.

[Kevin8]

Originally Posted by brentw1

yea the resistors is why I havent changed my bulbs to leds.
the correct fix is to change the current sensor in the turn signal relay
which just snaps open.

Well, as they typically do....my resistors have failed and I'm getting the LAMPF warning on my dash. I'm reading my own posts to refresh my memory and I see Brentw1's post about changing the current sensor in the turn signal relay.

Does anyone know how to go about changing the current sensor in the turn signal relay? As it's either put a new resistor in the ass end of my bike, or figure out Brentw1's fix.

Thank you in advance!

[tm1100s]

Trying to follow this for future reference, but I don't see any relays in the R1200S turn signal circuits but they appear to be handled by the Central Electronics Unit. There is a common ground for the rear turn signals and license plate light, though. Why not use one resistor at the ground for all three, finding an acceptable resistor value using a temporary variable load then measuring and installing the fixed resistor? Done this on cars with variable resistance box and adjusting the load until the indicator light went out. What should really be done is measure the current before removing the incandescents then add to the LED load to match.

[Kevin8]

TM1100s,

Thanks for the input. Resistors get the job done, but the vibrations of the bike kill them every 12-18 months. I've been using ceramic resistors, I guess I have to source aluminum ones with the hope that they are tougher to break.

[brentw1]

you are correct there is a separate relay/microprocessor on a 1100s but not on a 1200s
same problem let me see if i have a spare 1200xx module I can look at

[WilyB]

Originally Posted by Kevin8

Resistors get the job done, but the vibrations of the bike kill them every 12-18 months. I've been using ceramic resistors, I guess I have to source aluminum ones with the hope that they are tougher to break.

Would some kind of heat blanket around the resistors help mitigate the vibrations by any chance?

[tm1100s]

This whole simple LED 'upgrade' is apparently not so simple. I'm unclear about why the addition of the resistor in series works. If the load needs to be increased, then adding the series resistor would tend to get exactly the opposite reaction. I think it was the ASCycles site that indicated the CEU module can be re-programmed to adjust for the LED or disable the warning altogether. That's also unclear. I also saw in one of the other forums something about getting 'CAN bus friendly' LEDs. I don't think there is such a thing since even though the CEU module reacts to the LED, there is no CAN communication between the LED/bulb and the CEU. The CEU is providing some logic but the LED/bulb control has to be simple electronics. Sorry, for some reason this has become interesting to me and I'll do some testing on my own bike. There has to be an easy way to fool the CEU and make a reliable LED for the system. I think it's measuring a voltage drop and at a certain threshold it puts the bulb-out logic in play. A little variation between bikes makes the resistor work sometimes and sometimes not. If it becomes available, I'd like to see a good pic of the front and back of the LED replacement module.

[WilyB]

Originally Posted by tm1100s

...about getting 'CAN bus friendly' LEDs. I don't think there is such a thing ...

My white R1200S came with HP2S rear LED turn signal: no issues whatsoever even though I upgraded the front turn signals bulbs to LED too.

I upgraded my black R1200S with front LED turn signals bulbs (no issue) and then the only issue I have is an intermittent (1) LAMPF! error.

(1) Mostly when the bike is not moving.