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R1150S Project Bike

OK, I'm going to start posting this. I'll state up front this is an absolutely unnecessary endeavor and should be reconsidered if you would rather ride than work on your bike.

I'll start with my finished trailer queen below so you know what it ended up looking like when done, albeit, not running right.


The trailer queen above lasted a whopping 40 miles before running on 1 cylinder on this trip. It also had an oil leak (fixed now), steering issue (fixed now), ignition failing on left cylinder (fixed now) and major lean fuel issue (fixed now). Yes, I should have done a shake down.

This bike started as 2001 R1100SL from the original owner (Darryl Carmichael, works at Bob's BMW) with a blown engine and a trans input shaft on it's last leg BUT with Ohlins front and rear, Remus, BBPower chip and some carbon fiber bits I haven't seen anywhere else. It defines "delete" option for these bikes with nothing added and running the smaller alternator (or so it looks). Miss those heated hand grips too.

The bike above (Gotroad? calls it my Frankenbike....ouch), started as a pile of parts the week before this pic was taken and is now made up of the following parts:
-2004 R1150R motor (kept R clutch)
-2004 R1100S trans (low miles, beautiful shape)
-R850R final drive (Need to figure out the speedo)
-Buzzz gear indicator (like this)
-Ohlins (ProPilot rebuilt)
-RSC steering damper on 10mm shorter telelever arm
-2004 Rockster forks (fits 320mm rotors)
-2007 R1200S front brake calipers (very minor mod to fit my brake lines) + EBC HH pads
-K1200RS fuel regulator and coil (BMW connector kit to adapt + custom mount)
-2 sets of red Nology wires (dual plug heads)
-custom oil pressure spring shim
-stock bottom end with JE 13:1 pistons, Trick Titanium wrist pins, original piston rings
-flowed and ported heads (280 CFM now), 2mm larger Ferrera inconel valves with dual valve springs (something like bacn5 did only these are for a Hyabusa and fit the stock retainers)
-Edelweiss EM 4V2 cams (BBPower Hi-lift cam) using stock cam gears, lightened lifter buckets, stock pushrods, slightly lightened rockers (wish I could find the Titanium adjusters BBPower used to sell)
-BBPower chip (Type 2)
-stock throttle bodies
-SJBMW induction/filter/etc.
-Remus exhaust (wrapped, hides the crappy finish on the headers and looks fast)
-carbon fiber here and there (front fender, front head light fairing, valve cover sliders, dash cover, rear wheel hugger & foot rest heal plates)
-Iridium plugs
-Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 battery (couple of pounds)
-PVM wheels
-Baaker paralever link (black, 365-375-385mm) - 3 settings, it is in the middle setting in the pictures
-stock rotors (320mm up front)
-Dunlop tires (Q2 up front, 180 StreetSmart out back)
-Starlane Quickshifter
-Techlusion Gen 2 (the simple one that you tune like carbs and it ONLY adds fuel to the mapping)
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 08-24-2015 at 03:45 AM..
Old 05-05-2015, 01:03 PM
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Back to the beginning from the parts pile....


It also used the stock R1150R alternator that came with the engine.

I had not yet picked the heads up from the machine shop, so the top end came later.

You might notice a wood mount under the engine. It's homemade, very stable and how I start a build as EVERYTHING leads to the engine. I'll bet that's how they start on the production line in Germany as well.

I have the BMW alignment pins for the tranny install but I've also done it without them, so they are not absolutely necessary but make it easier.

I also have the TDC position locking tools and used them. You start with the pin in the back of the engine before you put the tranny on, then install the item below where the starter mounts to keep it there (you have to pull the pin to put the tranny on). Your conn rods are all the way out for this position. It's also a good time to reset your HES on the front of the engine if you are looking to advance it (I didn't with the 13:1 pistons). Don't forget to grease your tranny input shaft before you install the tranny.

This part below is black plastic and VERY EASY to leave in there when you put the starter on (ask me how I know this), so I added the REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT to remind me. It also makes it easier to pull out when the time comes. I think it is essential to use this for 2 reasons: 1) you hold the crank where you need it to time the cam gears upon install and 2) it's REALLY HARD to hold the crank when torquing the cam sprockets, this makes it easy.

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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 05-17-2015 at 01:56 PM..
Old 05-05-2015, 01:18 PM
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OK, subframes are on. There is an order of operations here:
1) I install the front subframe first (part with the upper triple tree and fairing subframe) and use bull pins/screw drivers to hold the back struts to the engine mount holes before installing the rear subframe,
2) I tighten the front stud first (two 18mm nuts),
3) then install the telelever arm (the 18mm nuts for the front subframe are behind the telelever arm),
4) connect the front shock, and
5) install the lower triple tree, forks, wheel, etc. HINT: if the upper fork tubes (stancions) are really hard to slide into the handlebar mounts and upper triple tree, your lower triple tree is twisted/bent (ask me how I know this)

You also want to start locating the wiring harness and especially the primary ground on the top and back of the engine (under the battery tray) before you put the rear subframe on. You can still get it on with the rear subframe on but it can be a PITA if the battery tray is on. Also do not forget to route and install the clutch slave cylinder. Once the airbox/subframe is on, forget about it.

If you look close, you'll see that I've swapped out the wooden stand under the engine for a scissor jack stand (modified to bolt to the front lower lug on the engine case) and added stabilizing straps and ran the jack up against them. Solid mounting and room to work. You also might notice the white rag towards the back of the engine sump. I have another scissor jack there so it doesn't pivot backwards as I add the rear end.

Once the front wheel is in the vice, I install the rear subframe/airbox/fuel regulator/injectors, which can sometimes be easy peasy and sometimes a real PITA (such as this time). Nothing a block of wood and a 4 lbs sledge couldn't persuade (really). Also, don't forget to install the side stand before the rear subframe. If you forget to install the airbox/etc., you'll have to remove the rear subframe to install it (ask me how I know this). I install the big bolts first to hold it in place without falling, then the 2 long bolts and 1 stud on top that ties the rear subframe to the front subframe struts and engine. Perhaps this could be done another way but that's how I do them.

Also, I like to paint or powder coat the rear subframes red. An idea I ripped off of the Moto Guzzi Sport. My Tourer is candy apple red, this one is cheap engine paint, hence the orange hue. I should have had it powder coated fire engine red, next one. Really like how it looked, so...
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 07-20-2015 at 06:19 PM..
Old 05-05-2015, 01:36 PM
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Next I work the rest of the rear starting with the paralever arm, rear shock, drive shaft, boots, final drive and rear wheel.

From other side.

Damn those PVMs look good!

Some things to note in this stage. You NEED to make sure you properly phase your drive shaft. It's in the manual, on the Internet, etc., so make sure you understand how the yokes align or vibration will be evident. Here I also use an order of operations:
1) install drive shaft (mark phasing on shaft and rear yoke so you're not off a spline),
2) install the paralever arm and pivots/bearings then rear yoke to final drive,
3) install rear shock,
4) install final drive (a trick I found somewhere was to put an accordion folded shop rag under the rear yoke to hold it up and center it for the final drive with a tail hanging out the bottom to put it out after the get the final drive pivot bearings in),
5) pull the front boot up onto the trans (duck bill pliers get this done quick),
6) tighten & torque & locktite the pivots,
7) pull the folded back boot on the final drive up and onto the paralever after I pull the shop rag out) and
8) hook up the paralever link.

The rear wheel is easy, the final drive can take a couple of tries and I use a rubber mallet to seat the yoke (has a built in spring clip you need to snap in place, same for the front yoke, rubber mallet gets them seated easily). The final drive is the hardest part of this in my opinion, I've only got it on the first try once. You might also need longer pivot bolts for the right side paralever pivot install to get it started. My Tourer needs it, this one didn't. When you install the rear shock it is just a preference but you'll need to support the paralever if you wait to do it later.

You probably also noticed I have blue masking tape on my electrical connections. It's just something I do as a habit to remind myself to connect them when they are unplugged. Goes on easy, comes off easy and has saved me trouble shooting time for something left unplugged.

More later, I have to go swing dancing with my beautiful wife (I don't love to dance, I love my wife). :-I
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 05-05-2015 at 02:29 PM..
Old 05-05-2015, 01:55 PM
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I'm book marking this thread. Very helpful!
Old 05-05-2015, 03:33 PM
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OK, done with dance class.

Rest of the tail goes on.


Much easier without ABS. The battery is one of those super light Shorai. Cranks no problem.

Ooops, I forgot to show the pistons and heads going on.
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 06-21-2015 at 09:42 AM..
Old 05-05-2015, 05:19 PM
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Custom JE pistons. They are a much more current design bridge style piston with much shorter wrist pins. I sent them a mold of my combustion chambers and no knocking at start-up, so they got them right out of the box. They set them up for stock pistons rings, so I just swapped them over, no break in.


Note that the valve reliefs are by valve, not one big relief like with the SJBMW pistons below. Note: I thought the Venolia Circlips were hard to get in. They turned out to seem easy after I had to put the JE Circlips in, really hate them. Now I welcome the Veniolia ones.


JE pistons again, you can see a little of the low friction coating for the piston skirts.


Here's a gambit of different wrist pins - top view. Trick Ti pins on top (note diamond coat color difference); middle pin is the original JE steel pin; bottom pin is the SJBMW Venolia pins.


Gambit of wrist pins again - end view. Left to right, Venolia pin; original JE steel pin; Trick Ti pin with Aluminum inserts to make them the same length as the original JEs (2.050" long). Note; the end thicknesses appear much different but thickness at the small end of the rod isn't. The Venolia is very tapered from the end in, the JEs have no taper and the Trick Ti do not either. All the IDs at the small end are within a 1/32" of each other. The Trick Ti is easily the lightest of the bunch, with the JE next, then Venolia with the stock pin (not shown) feeling like a brick in comparison.
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 05-05-2015 at 05:43 PM..
Old 05-05-2015, 05:31 PM
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OK, my trailer queen ignition gave it up after only 40 miles. I put the old stock coil and wires in with none for the 2nd set of plugs (just filled the hole). That didn't work out too well. Nology's commitment and follow-up meant they came about a week later than planned. So once I had the queen home and on the lift, it was time to put the dual ignition on I wanted. It has a K1200RS coil with the right connector kit from BMW (in stock) spliced into the stock harness. The way this is wired is the middle pin (#2) goes to the green wire from the original harness and the other two (#1 and #3) go to the brown (might have been black) wire as they are the coil returns. If you turn on the ignition and do a continuity check, you see the green one turns on with the ignition. I started by trying to use the SJBMW coil mounting bracket I bought for my Tourer but didn't fit and found it just as bad on this one. I took a hammer to the Tourer tank, I wasn't doing that again, so I made up some mounting brackets that put the coil down into the empty space where the harnessing and ABS II usually resides.

Trust me when I say those brackets look better than they are. They're fine structurally but you can tell I made them. I know how to make sheet metal and machine parts, I'm just a hack.

Here's it installed with wires and ready to go.


There's been a lot of debate as to whether or not the Nology wires really are better. All I can tell you is when I put them on my Tourer with no other changes, my idle RPM came up 200 RPM. Putting these on the bike solved the one cylinder only firing problem. Also clears the tank nicely.
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 06-21-2015 at 09:47 AM..
Old 05-05-2015, 05:57 PM
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Hats off to you. What Ohlins shocks are you using?
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:08 PM
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The rear just has the compression and rebound damping adjustability. The front has the rebound only with the larger reservoir, so I'm thinking it's really just an emulsion deal with capacity. I'm planning to send them to ProPilot and make some changes, so we'll see.
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike
Old 05-05-2015, 06:13 PM
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Here's the shocks off the bike and going to ProPilot.
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike
Old 05-06-2015, 05:24 PM
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Blimey I've had to read it half a dozen times to work out what you have done what ratio is the rear bevel and is the Shorai the same as the smaller of the two that was supplied on non heated grip S.
Old 05-08-2015, 11:20 AM
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Why oh why do people not take better care of their toenails?

It's so easy to make them beautiful.
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2000 R1100S, 2000 Dyna FXDX, 2015 rNineT. 2016 F800GS, 2016 Jeep Rubicon. 2001 Corvette, 1978 Porsche 928. Schwinn Homegrown MTB & Fastback Road Bike. 22 pairs of shoes. 44 bottles of beer.
Time Marches On: 2015 F800GS, 2010 F800GS, 2007 R1200S, 2003 Dakar, Buell 1125r, 2001 F650GS. 1999 F650. 1998 HD Sportster Sport. 2010 F150, 1995 GMC Sierra ALL GONE
Old 05-08-2015, 02:52 PM
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Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this post. Even though the R1100S is getting on a bit now, they remain a great bike. it is interesting, informative and challenging to see the extent and results of your tinkering and modifications. I look forward to seeing more of your posts.
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Old 05-08-2015, 04:59 PM
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The final drive says 37/11 = 3.36:1. It now pulls 4,000 RPM at 55 MPH. Should be good on shorter strait tracks and temper my propensity to cruise at 80 MPH. For longer straights, I'll need to put the original back in.

On the battery, it's the LFX21L6-BS12. Found out about it on the pelican board somewhere. It's a strong battery and cranks fine even with the 13:1 pistons. I just put my stock R1150R pistons back into my Tourer and it cranks even faster than the Project Bike. If you get a Shorai (or any LiFe type battery), get their charger and use it. Our bikes are not designed to top off the individual cells in the battery which will eventually lead to a weak cell and you know how that ends up. I started my Tourer last year on this battery without the charger, now I cannot fully charge it. Apparently one of the cells is too weak now to charge up. I started the Project bike on the charger from the get go and it charges well with the charger and cranks great.
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 07-19-2015 at 04:32 PM..
Old 05-08-2015, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckcarr View Post
Why oh why do people not take better care of their toenails?

It's so easy to make them beautiful.
OK, let's see yours....
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike
Old 05-08-2015, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KMoore View Post
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this post. Even though the R1100S is getting on a bit now, they remain a great bike. it is interesting, informative and challenging to see the extent and results of your tinkering and modifications. I look forward to seeing more of your posts.
RIQUE & Kevin, nice of you to say. I've learned so much from the people on this board, just trying to give back a little. I have 3 S-bikes and love them but they really are not made for what I'm attempting to do. It's certainly had it's pains. They are dated bikes now.

However the dual cam heads look very promising but it's still going to be limited without water cooling. It was a big disappointment to me that the boxers went water but not a big bump in power (150 HP or more). I bet you can get them to make 160 HP or more. Swapping pistons in that motor is a real *****. You should look at how you get the wrist pins out and the tools you need.

If I give up on the S-bikes, I like the Ducs, MV 800s and KTMs, so we'll see. For now I get to rebuild and build things.
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 05-23-2015 at 07:07 AM..
Old 05-08-2015, 07:00 PM
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OK, ProPilot took good care of me and rebuilt my shocks (great turnaround). We discussed upgrades but they're not worth it. I would be past $1K quick for what I wanted, so maybe next time. Upgraded rear spring to 160n (160 newtons) to better carry my lard around.

Front shock.


Rear shock


I also rewired for my BBPower chip (sorry about the focus, my new to me Fujifilm with autofocus is charging up).


Set it up to flip between Stage 4 (road) and Stage 5 (track), added a switch to turn on Stage 5. I might rewire in the future to play with timing advance options but not now.


Hopefully this will cure my lean problem (was running on Stage 2). My quickshifter also arrived, that's going on after I resync the injectors.
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 05-17-2015 at 11:39 AM..
Old 05-17-2015, 11:35 AM
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Finished it and been shaking it down. Gotroad? help me ring it out this weekend.

Here's some updates:
-Throttle body sync - proved WAY harder than imagined and NONE of the syncs online answered the mail on this one. I'm guessing it's a combination of things like low restriction induction, low restriction exhaust, ported heads, high compression pistons and big cams. Had to set the throttle plates further open to idle. It's not perfect, gives me a cough every so often. Likes to idle around 1500 now, it will go lower but then it likes to stall every now and then if I close the throttle quick and pull the clutch in, so 1500 it is. Gets rougher at 1200 but it will idle.
--Here's how I got it to idle, right or wrong
---Turned the throttle cable adjusters all the way in
---Started it and kept it running with Twinmax hooked up
---Used the throttle cable adjusters to sneak up on the idle and sync'ing the idle using the Twinmax and the throttle cable adjusters
---Turned it off and ran the throttle stops down to where the throttle cable adjusters put the throttle plates and ran the Big Brass Screws (BBSs) all the way in and back out 1/2 a turn and adjusted the TPS until the voltage between pins 1 and 4 were 0.36V (0.366 actual).
---Restarted it and adjusted the right side throttle stop to sync both sides at an idle where it wouldn't stall anymore (~1200 RPM'ish) and the adjusting of the throttle stop is harder than I make it sound because when you tighten the lock nut, it changes the sync just a little bit and I didn't want to get it to work on the BBSs, saved those for fine tuning
---Adjusted the BBS to smooth out the RPM (elevated it), now they are both at about 1 turn out, then ran out of time and had to go somewhere and didn't get back to it for a couple of days
--Note: I set the idle with the BBPower chip set at Stage 4. Remembered why I did this. Read somewhere the Stage 5 only adds gas above 5,000 RPM, so I thought if I sync it in Stage 4, it should work for Stage 5 too BUT that's not what happened. I want Stage 4 for the street and some sport touring economy (really just more distance between fill ups). Stage 5 for the track days.
---i flipped it to Stage 5, heated it up (now it had an idle problem), synced the throttles at 4K RPM

Bottom line, it surges bad at idle when on Stage 5, pulls like a raped ape above 5K RPM at full throttle (I didn't play with the advanced or retard timing settings on the chip). Put it back on Stage 4 and full throttle is still very strong above 6K RPM but feels a little anemic before that. If I pin the throttle right away, it hesitates and feels less than a stock motor. Easy on the throttle, it pulls much harder earlier. Gas mileage is surprisingly good.

-R850R rear gearing - Good and bad
--Good - tightens up the gear spread, nice in tight twisties; lower gearing (as expected) pulls harder everywhere; easier to start out up hill (expected)
--Bad - runs 6K RPM at 80 MPH; buzzes bad if I try to cruise there; snatchier; no speedo

Bottom line, I like it until I need to make up some time on the highway at speed, great roll-on but constant fight to avoid numbness. I don't know the HP but it almost pulls with Gotroad?'s Multistada. However, I have to down shift to put it in the power spot, diminished bottom end and midrange.

-R1200S brakes - No ABS, race style lines (each side runs to the master cylinder) using DOT 5.1. Really good feel and feedback, lots of brake, do not expect to want for more.

-Handling - Like my Wilbers better than these Ohlins. Extended paralever all the way out (385mm now), turns plenty easy and fast with shorter telelever up front. With the PVMs, turning is light and easy, maybe intuitive.

Need to put that quickshifter in next and adjust some of the slop out of the throttle cable.
__________________
2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 08-24-2015 at 03:46 AM.. Reason: memory improvement
Old 07-19-2015, 04:14 PM
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Sorry it's been a while but I had to fix a thing or two.

Adjusted the slack out of the throttle cable. Needed this.

Below is a cracked front engine cover. This was an ebay motor, so maybe you do get what you pay for. You really can't see the cracks from the front, just a weeping pin hole. A little RTV over the hole didn't hold, so I had to do it the hard way.


My new front engine cover (old silver one painted black). As you can see I had to take the front forks off to make room to work.


While I had the forks off, I replaced my crappy ebay replacement lower tree. Note how the left fork (one on the right in this pic) looks awry. The lower tree is twisted and it won't straighten, I've tried.


Here it is with a straight one, another ebay lower tree (this one is straight).


So now I have it back together and my weeping oil leak and funky forks fixed. Time for more mods.
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2001 R1150S - project bike
2004 R1150SR - Project Touring Bike
2005 Honda RC51 SP-2 project bike
2014 Ducati Hyperstrada - fun touring bike

Last edited by BadToTheBown; 08-24-2015 at 03:49 AM..
Old 08-23-2015, 05:53 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #20 (permalink)
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