Continuing Thread: What Are You Fix-It'ing Today?

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by Baz

This is for your irrigation system I assume?

Rainbird?

You know......at one time a few years ago I was trying to offer some advice to someone looking for work. I told her she could offer a service where she serviced rain sensors only and stay busy all the time.

Of course we don't have or need freeze sensors. But our rainfall is so inconsistent having an operational rain sensor is very helpful!

They are required for all new systems but not (legally retroactive) required on older ones.

Servicing one is not hard work. You could easily put together a business model where you offer an annual check and service. Options could be once a year --- or more often.

We do have plenty of irrigation contractors but I bet the subject of rain sensors hardly ever comes up unless a problem arises. This would be a nice pro-active service for property owners.

Yea, it is for the irrigation system all done 26 years ago with the Rainbird Professional line. I went to the garage this morning at it was only 35 degrees outside and the sensor showed active and working. The old outside sensor just stopped talking to the the inside unit. I replaced the battery and no joy. The biggest pain is after a few years the little wafers that absorb the rain to tell it to not water because of rain just stop absorbing water properly. I have replaced just the wafers, the ones I can find are poor quality and don't last long.

[rsrguy]

I was able to lay down the first coat of the first color on my friend's supercub yesterday. He'd done all the covering work with his ia's supervision. We're doing a 3 color job glacier white on top and a dark green on the bottom with the traditional supercub spear in gold.

[A930Rocket]

Trying to convert these flanges, from screw in studs, to press in ARP studs.

I only need to increase the size a couple hundredths and my new drill bits don’t seem to be cutting, because it’s using so much of the outside edge?

Would it be better to use a reamer?

The knurled section is .510; the threaded section is .468; what size drill bit or reamer would you recommend? My drill bit was .498

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by rsrguy

I was able to lay down the first coat of the first color

Impressive paintwork Guy.

[1990C4S]

I would have expected the drill bit to work, and give you a hole very close to 0.500". Maybe it's a crap drill bit?

If you have a 0.500 reamer that should work. Or buy a 1/2" carbide drill bit. The carbide bits tend to chip though, I'm not sure the interrupted cut is good for it.

[A930Rocket]

It was a DeWalt drill bit. I probably need to slow the speed down some and not press so hard. It seemed like it was working, until the smoke came out…

[rsrguy]

Thanks Bill.
Rocket, I like reamers.... a lot especially when everything is centered and locked down. However, if your bit size is correct it should do fine, just slow it down and use a good cutting oil.
Oh and don't release the magic smoke... ya can't ever get it back into the bit.

[A930Rocket]

^^^ After some reading online, I don’t think I can ream it from .468 to .5 Not in one go any way. Maybe a tapered reamer?

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

^^^ After some reading online, I don’t think I can ream it from .468 to .5 Not in one go any way. Maybe a tapered reamer?

No, do not do that. Buy a good drill bit, the one that produced smoked is done.

Normally I would say that 0.468 is too small to ream, but's not a solid hole, it's threaded. Just buy a good bit, slow the rpm, lubricate and don't overload the bit.

https://www.amazon.com/HLOFIZI-Cobalt-Drill-Titanium-Stainless/dp/B0D3DVDXHN/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?cv_ct_cx=1% 2F2%22%2Bdrill%2Bbit&sbo=9ZOMT9Jm0JH%2Ft%2BWi68iDSA%3D%3D&sr=1-1-ac07dfd7-5f37-4797-bcf7-0f4905c82761-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM

[rsrguy]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

No, do not do that. Buy a good drill bit, the one that produced smoked is done.

Normally I would say that 0.468 is too small to ream, but's not a solid hole, it's threaded. Just buy a good bit, slow the rpm, lubricate and don't overload the bit.

https://www.amazon.com/HLOFIZI-Cobalt-Drill-Titanium-Stainless/dp/B0D3DVDXHN/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?cv_ct_cx=1% 2F2%22%2Bdrill%2Bbit&sbo=9ZOMT9Jm0JH%2Ft%2BWi68iDSA%3D%3D&sr=1-1-ac07dfd7-5f37-4797-bcf7-0f4905c82761-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM

Exactly... let the bit cut

[A930Rocket]

Bits ordered!

I have about six 1/2” bits in the last one semi worked. I got it through, but all of the bits are inly good for wood or soft metals now.

I knocked the stud in with a brass hammer. It wasn’t too difficult, so I’m thinking I may do a small weld on the back, to keep them from spinning…

Since the back of the flange has a slight curve to it, I ground the area around the hole flat. Going forward, I will only make the flat spot just big enough for the head of the stud.

[rsrguy]

Just a couple more to go.

[A930Rocket]

Stopped at Lowe’s and picked up another 1/2” bit. Slowed the rpm’s and used lots of oil. It went through like a hot knife through butter.🤪

One hole got off just a tad, when I checked the studs for square. I had to massage the hole just a bit to square it up.

I think I’ll bolt it to a wheel and tack weld the studs to the hub. It will keep everything in place.

This was a test run to see how it worked. I ordered another rear hub and two new front hubs. When I do maintenance of the 330. I’ll install the new parts.

Thanks everyone!

[rsrguy]

The secret to life is to slow down and use lube liberally.

[908/930]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

Stopped at Lowe’s and picked up another 1/2” bit. Slowed the rpm’s and used lots of oil. It went through like a hot knife through butter.��

One hole got off just a tad, when I checked the studs for square. I had to massage the hole just a bit to square it up.

I think I’ll bolt it to a wheel and tack weld the studs to the hub. It will keep everything in place.

This was a test run to see how it worked. I ordered another rear hub and two new front hubs. When I do maintenance of the 330. I’ll install the new parts.

Thanks everyone!

Are those studs 8740 chrome moly? I would not be welding those without talking with the manufacturer. Some chrome moly metals will stress crack with welding.

[A930Rocket]

Originally Posted by 908/930

Are those studs 8740 chrome moly? I would not be welding those without talking with the manufacturer. Some chrome moly metals will stress crack with welding.

I don’t know what they are. Good idea to talk to the manufacturer.

Edit… a quick look at the ARP website, and it seems like all of the wheel studs are 8740 chrome moly. So what would I need to do?

Edit 2: I would only weld maybe 25% of the bolt to the flange. Not a full 360.

[A930Rocket]

I found this on their website, about the hole size. The 1/2” drill bit is too big.

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

I found this on their website, about the hole size. The 1/2” drill bit is too big.

Loctite and move on. A failure will be an annoyance, I don't think it can be life threatening.

You said above the knurl is 0.510". The hole can be 0.006" - 0.016" interference. You should have about 0.010"....

The effort required to press the studs in should give you an idea of the interference.

[A930Rocket]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

…The effort required to press the studs in should give you an idea of the interference…

I knocked the studs in with a brass hammer. Kind of hard to gauge the interference😂. That said, it took some good blows, to knock them in.

Maybe the Loctite is a good idea. Thanks

[908/930]

A930Rocket, get yourself a .500 HSS reamer for the other hubs, you need to spin it at about 100rpm and consistent feed rate and cutting oil on it. Reaming from .468 to .500 wont be a problem. The holes you drilled likely ended up oversize a little from the drill chattering, if you really want to drill you can try and and grind the cutting edge of the bit flat and see if that helps. A reamer would be best though.