Weird refridgerator issue. Mechanicals good but no cool

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

2015 Kenmore side by side with a single evaporator.

We wake up in the morning to our freezer thawing out. Do a quick check and not blowing cold. So after transferring everythign to the garage fridge, I check over the mechanicals. Condensor clean and fan running. Compressor running (thought only at 85 degrees top and bottom. Evaporator fan running but at ambient temp. Defrost circuit not on.

Let it thaw for a few hours just in case. Plugged back in, no cold.

Ran diagnostics - no code.

So the electronics think they are fine - and mechanically everything seems to be working. Its just not cold. Its as if all the freon was gone, but then the compressor should cut out. ...or if the compressor runs but doesn't, well, compress.

Any ideas? Its a WEEK before Sears will come get a repairman here.

wswartzwel · 08-25-2019, 06:58 PM

Mine did that, I unplugged for 10 minutes then plugged back in and everything was fine.

chapo · 08-25-2019, 07:49 PM

Ours does that. Sometimes the bottom freezer door doesn’t get shut tight. Also, a lot of gaseous vegetables can cause cooling problems in the fridge. Two weeks ago my fridge was at 60 degrees, the freezer was 10. The duct from the freezer to the fridge iced up, everything into coolers and ice for eight hours, puddle under fridge, everything works great now.

John Rogers · 08-25-2019, 09:50 PM

When unit is running, check to see if outlet of compressor is hot (compressing gas) then then check right after evap coils and they should still be somewhat cold. If temps are same either pump is not pumping or your out of Freon. Visit our friends at Harbor Freight and get the Freon leak detector with the long tubular arm. If you have a leak or bad seal or..or.. then that will tell you. All this above is courtesy of the US Navy's AC&R school in 1974.

Let us know what you find please.

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

I tried unplugging it for a few hours and left the doors open. Then shut the doors and plugged it back in. 8 hours later and still warm.

Inlet and outlet of the compressor are ambient temperature. Condenser same.

billybek · billybek's Garage

Is it out of warranty?

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by billybek

Is it out of warranty?

Naturally.

billybek · billybek's Garage

See if the compressor is getting power to the motor pins.
Sounds to me like the condensing fan is running but the compressor is not.
That compressor should be HOT even if the valves were gone (not compressing) or if is low or out of refrigerant.
Could be off on overloads (thermal/amperes) located under the motor terminal cover.
Could be an open winding on the motor.
Have a meter?

billybek · billybek's Garage

Trouble with working on residential fridges is that you have to be bent over like a monkey humping a football to see anything....
Residential appliance wiring can be not very straight forward.
You can find that they break the neutral as well as breaking hot to control the components On/Off.

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

The compressor is definitely on. I can feel it vibrating, it makes the same sound it always did from what I can tell. It doesn't really get warm though. Ambient is 75 and the lower half was 85 after hours of running.

I don't have a current meter but haven't bothered to check the voltage to it either, because if its a bad compressor - I can't fix that anyway.

onewhippedpuppy · 08-26-2019, 04:52 AM

Had a similar issue with our LG and it was a shot compressor. I ultimately punted that one to a repair man. Only about two years old, the part was under warranty but I had to pay $450 labor.

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by onewhippedpuppy

Had a similar issue with our LG and it was a shot compressor. I ultimately punted that one to a repair man. Only about two years old, the part was under warranty but I had to pay $450 labor.

Jeeezuz thats a lot.

I've been afraid of the compressor. Kids left the doors open twice all night. Compressor was, of course, running the whole time... Worried it "burned out"

john70t · 08-26-2019, 10:07 AM

Is there a schrader valve you can tap into and check system pressure?
Or use laser thermometer?

Should be ambient temp before condenser and very hot after (where the radiator/fan is located).

My beautiful Whirpool quit after three years and was within advertised warrantee.
A hot copper line after the compressor (which routes through the drip tray) had broken and leaked out all freon.
Three weeks of using coolers and swapping out blue ice packs three times a day.
I got the run-around from the company.
It ended up being about same price to buy a new one, and have my life back.

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

All line temps were basically the same using an infrared pyrometer. No refrigerant pressure access ports to check pressures from what I can see.

john70t · 08-26-2019, 12:02 PM

If it's not pumping through, the pressure cutoff valve might be stuck shut, or there is no R-134A gas.

(just a wag from a layman)

billybek · billybek's Garage

Seems like extended warranties for home appliances are almost a requirement. Seems like it is like rolling the dice if your shiny new appliance lasts 1 year or 20.
It would be nice to see manufacturers make appliances that are more service friendly instead of the disposable crap that we have these days.
A refrigerator that needs major surgery to repair is like a spouse that has cheated on you. You never really trust them again....
I make my fair share of speeling mistakes here but would like to point out that there is no D in refrigerator.
I would be shopping for a new fridge (it is ok to use the d here as it is short for the Frigidaire brand). Push the Kenmore to the garage for beer fridge duty once repaired or sell it on Craig's as non op.

cstreit · cstreit's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by john70t

If it's not pumping through, the pressure cutoff valve might be stuck shut, or there is no R-134A gas.

(just a wag from a layman)

That seems like a plausible theory.

UncleRay · 08-26-2019, 01:41 PM

Had a similar problem with a GE side by side at the cabin. Only a few years old and out of warranty. Ran but no cooling. I got on an appliance repair forum. Was asked to remove the panel inside the freezer section to expose where the compressor discharge line entered the freezer section. Was told that with the unit running, to look for frost on the line where it enters. Ours had a little frost for a couple inches and then no more. Diagnosis was that it lost the Freon and sorry but this model was probably not worth taking to a shop to repair. Wondered if it being seasonal use, 6 months on during the summer and then 6 months off at ambient winter temps had anything to do with it. Needed a refrigerator now so it was replaced with a new unit. Gave the old one to a friend that wanted parts (ice maker, electrical card and doors). Hope yours turns out better than ours.

sammyg2 · 08-26-2019, 01:50 PM

Don't have a magic wand, but over the past few years I've gotten into the habit of checking you-tube for stuff like this and found just what i was looking for.

And if that fails, you can watch some cat videos.

Cajundaddy · Cajundaddy's Garage

Sounds like either a refrigerant leak or failed compressor. A 4 yr old is probably worth fixing if the rest of it is sound. Sears "used" to have a pretty good appliance repair team but these days, who knows?