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I would not sleep well if I only replaced one.... nothing to do with safety, etc. .... just because... bugs

Old 10-02-2020, 04:02 AM
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Manufacturer warranty explains why in this case but you could pay of pocket for the other side depending on the total price.
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Old 10-02-2020, 04:26 AM
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I had read through the extended warranty and it is clearly stated if the part, regardless if it is part of a pair, is not covered unless defective. It makes sense.
Too bad that Bilstein doesn't make struts for this model. I would probably go to them if they were available.
Funny, I saw another Venza last weekend with a bad bounce at the rear end. Maybe struts are a thing with them.
It hasn't been a bad vehicle so far and very reliable in the cold.
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Old 10-02-2020, 05:35 AM
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I always buy them in pairs, I want the car to drive properly, but I do not buy the 'safety' argument.

I have driven a LOT of cars where one shock/strut is leaking or totally worn out, and the other one is still functional. I am sure everyone on this board has at some point.

It's not ideal, but it's unlikely to make you crash.

If the opposing strut is good, and at that mileage it should be, I don't think I'd lose any sleep over 'one new, one used'.
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Old 10-02-2020, 06:53 AM
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Technically I do change one at a time. But I move on to the next one.
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Old 10-02-2020, 07:38 AM
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Just sayin', but I think it is just a rule-of-thumb to replace certain items in pairs. Some items as a complete set. Pay up now or pay more later. And a safety issue comes into play as well.
  • front shocks/struts
  • rear shocks
  • front brakes
  • rear brakes
  • front wheel bearings/seals
  • rear wheel bearings/seals
  • front tires
  • rear tires
  • all spark plugs
  • all spark plug wires
  • all fuel injectors
Old 10-02-2020, 07:59 AM
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My OCD requires at minimum pairs if not all 4 otherwise I always feel that somethings not right.
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Old 10-02-2020, 08:50 AM
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Two years ago my Lexus dealership told me my front right strut/shock absorber was leaking. I asked for proof and they showed me. I gave the okay to replace it which they did. I do quite a bit of city driving and driving in the far right lanes I tend to hit more potholes. Strut replaced and I did not see the need to replace any others. It's overkill to replace more than one unless it is obvious it needs replacing.
Old 10-02-2020, 10:41 AM
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besides emotional reasons, can anyone tell me WHY the second one should be changed? From a mechanical standpoint I mean.
TIA
Old 10-02-2020, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyg2 View Post
besides emotional reasons, can anyone tell me WHY the second one should be changed? From a mechanical standpoint I mean.
TIA
From a mechanical perspective? I'm gonna really screw something up mechanically if I haven't been able to sleep for three days. Just thinkin' about changing only one side gives me the heebie-jeebies.
Old 10-02-2020, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyg2 View Post
besides emotional reasons, can anyone tell me WHY the second one should be changed? From a mechanical standpoint I mean.
TIA
Not really with a 30k mile factory strut vs a new factory one.

120k mile factory strut vs brand new, I would say no to only one side new. Would rather get a used one off of a car with 90k miles to have roughly the same dampening rates and spring tension. Mind you, this is for value minded customers. Anybody with money, both changed out, and I would use Monroe loaded (better ones - Quik-Strut) or KYB loaded. Don't do naked ones anymore.

That said, I changed a bad coil pack in a 2002 Tundra and it was then running smooth. Customer said change them all. I push back. "Dude, they're $55 each at my cost. I fixed the problem". He said change them all. Almost $500 plus my work. It was a massive night and day difference in how the engine ran.

I will skin a good side rotor if a frozen caliper ate the other side but it's all subjective based on my perception of what's serviceable. I have micrometers but it's often an eye-ball assessment of the face and how much (Ohio) rust slag is present. Rust slag will rub on new SS inserts you put in the caliper brackets that pads ride in. Is it worth pinging the slag off with a light hammer and sanding to eliminate interference when skinning is $10 (plus driving to drop and pick up) vs $50 for a new rotor?

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Last edited by Bob Kontak; 10-02-2020 at 04:19 PM..
Old 10-02-2020, 04:09 PM
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