MK6 Jetta Clutch

[ninelevenick]

Nice job catching the switched clutch disc! Looks like you have made good progress.

[aigel]

Got a good looking clutch yesterday.

There is an infamous vacuum pump on the 2.5 that leaks oil. During my ownership, I did the quick fix replacing the lid gasket, but still leaking. So I need to put a new vacuum pump which I ordered. It is right there for access with the transmission out.

Tonight I spent about an hour degreasing the transmission which was a ball of grease from years of slow oil leaking that never hit the ground. When rotating it, I leaked oil out of the trans. So now I get to replace that too.

At the rate I am going, I'll have a project car on jack stands for a few years!

I'll keep you posted.

[speeder]

Think that the oil in our VW manual transmissions is a "lifetime oil" but I'm sure that you can buy some at the dealer and top it off.

[ninelevenick]

I'm sure he drained the oil before dropping the transmission.

[speeder]

No, he didn't.

Why would he?

[otto_kretschmer]

Originally Posted by speeder

Think that the oil in our VW manual transmissions is a "lifetime oil" but I'm sure that you can buy some at the dealer and top it off.

I ran the original tranny oil in my 2011 TDI for 200k. It came out a little dark and smelled burnt but it was still oily. I put in Redline MTL and ran it for 30k and didn't like the shifting so I went back to the OEM from the dealer and noticed an improvement.

There isn't a service interval that I could find so I decided on 100k

[ninelevenick]

Sorry Speeder. You are correct. I just read aigel's last post. I assumed he drained the oil given the situation; oil makes the transmission weigh that much more, and it likely had never been changed before. For me it is common sense to drain and change to pair with the fresh clutch assembly.

[Tobra]

Lifetime tranny oil will last until transmission fails.


I would rather change it prior to that.

[Arizona_928]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

I ran the original tranny oil in my 2011 TDI for 200k. It came out a little dark and smelled burnt but it was still oily. I put in Redline MTL and ran it for 30k and didn't like the shifting so I went back to the OEM from the dealer and noticed an improvement.

There isn't a service interval that I could find so I decided on 100k

I did the trans at 100k on my tdi before the stupid offer buyback. That's even with some diesel nights at the dragstrip.

[aigel]

Indeed, did not drain the oil. As I said, I spilled some oil out the a-hole (axle hole), so I bought a factory liter bottle of fluid and will top it off. I'll try to put as much of the new stuff in there as possible.

[aigel]

It is back together. I had my local pelican buddy come by to help me guide the trans back in place. I did spring for a better throw out bearing than the one in the kit and also replaced the slave cylinder, so all the bits are new now.

When first starting it I had some weird noises and it hesitated, so I was very concerned, even though operating the clutch at rest worked fine. Noises cleared up quickly and I think it may have been the new vacuum pump (admittedly a $50 amazon special, rather than the $300 brand name products, haha).

I had to wait for new axle gaskets and the oil to start driving it. Once on the road I had a shudder at very low rpm, basically when you attempt to launch at idle. I power bled the clutch and got some air out, but it didn't improve. I drove it to work (plenty stop and go, about 70 miles round trip) and it gradually improved all the way to smooth. I did lightly sand the flywheel to check for flatness and think things needed to break in.

I found out from the Haynes manual that the huge axle to hub bolts are stretch bolts and need replacement. They are not in stock at AutoZone "special order". I guess nobody really replaces them. I did order a set and will put those in once they arrive. Maybe overkill, but holding the hub to the axle seems important.

Thanks for all the input and advice. I learned a lot on how to do this on a FWD car and it is re-assurance that FWD cars suck to work on! Haha.

[Arizona_928]

I have bought new stretch bolts and have reused. Usually the dealer keeps them in stock and somewhat reasonable. I believe the flywheel bolts are 12.9. So wayyyyy better than the grade 5 (8.8) I've seen on domestic flywheels/flexplates.


If your flywheel looks as glazed as your pressure plate in the first page. A break in will be really needed. Big ole slippery burnout is the preferred method to this task.

[aigel]

Thanks AZ 928 - I was talking axle bolts, the ones holding the axles in the hub. Any opinion on those? They are 7 bucks a pop, so not going to save on that.

My stick shift learner will get enough burn out action on the clutch here in the next couple weeks. Haha. Kid is getting pretty good though already. I was hesitant to try that burnout, but I did read about it online elsewhere.

[Arizona_928]

7 bucks a pop is high. I was thinking close to 3ish for dealer. I tell my local dealer I'm a vortex member and they give me a nice discount (which i didn't even know about until i really got to know the guys working there. Came in every week trying to figure out what hardware i needed for my first slush to manual swap on the alh back before people did write ups on it)



I reuse them on my mk4's i play with. I'm very careful to inspect them as any imperfection to the triple square bit will lead to them stripping. Which i think is why vw just says replace them. Deutsche leute...

[otto_kretschmer]

Originally Posted by aigel

Thanks AZ 928 - I was talking axle bolts, the ones holding the axles in the hub. Any opinion on those? They are 7 bucks a pop, so not going to save on that.

My stick shift learner will get enough burn out action on the clutch here in the next couple weeks. Haha. Kid is getting pretty good though already. I was hesitant to try that burnout, but I did read about it online elsewhere.

I just replaced a outer CV boot on my TDI. The bolt came with the boot kit. The torque was a bit confusing. I have probably the same Haynes as you and it doesn't cover the diesel engine, but I think the axels torques are the same.

I had the bolt with the serrations and the torque was 52 lbft then turn another 90 deg. I couldn't get that far so I just got my 24" breaker bar and jumped on it a couple times. I have no idea if I properly torqued it. I had to use the breaker bar, and jumped on it, to get the old bolt off. The book called for another torque with a different bolt. 140 lbft with the bolt that didn't have the serrations on the bearing surface.

I'm planning on a 3 week drive to Vermont to see family so maybe I should take the wheel cap off and mark the bolt head to the wheel with a sharpie and keep an eye on it.

[aigel]

Originally Posted by Arizona_928

7 bucks a pop is high. I was thinking close to 3ish for dealer.....
I reuse them on my mk4's i play with. I'm very careful to inspect them as any imperfection to the triple square bit will lead to them stripping. Which i think is why vw just says replace them. Deutsche leute...

The other side. It has a single bolt, M12 or something really big. Takes a 24mm 12 point.

[aigel]

Originally Posted by otto_kretschmer

I just replaced a outer CV boot on my TDI. The bolt came with the boot kit. The torque was a bit confusing. I have probably the same Haynes as you and it doesn't cover the diesel engine, but I think the axels torques are the same.

I had the bolt with the serrations and the torque was 52 lbft then turn another 90 deg. I couldn't get that far so I just got my 24" breaker bar and jumped on it a couple times. I have no idea if I properly torqued it. I had to use the breaker bar, and jumped on it, to get the old bolt off. The book called for another torque with a different bolt. 140 lbft with the bolt that didn't have the serrations on the bearing surface.

I'm planning on a 3 week drive to Vermont to see family so maybe I should take the wheel cap off and mark the bolt head to the wheel with a sharpie and keep an eye on it.

That's the one I am talking about. I have the "ribbed" one too. That's exactly the torque spec. I torqued them to 52 and finished them off with the impact which reached just shy of 1/4 turn.

The non-ribbed bolt, you get to do 148 ft-lb and then an additional 1/2 turn! Yikes! Haha.

Good idea to mark the bolt - I'll have to get one of those paint pens - it will be more visible than a sharpie. I did keep off the various covers so I can check on all bolts over the next couple weeks. On the 911 the axle to differential bolts were notorious for coming loose, doesn't seem to be as much an issue on these VWs.

I always wanted a new beetle ragtop. I should go see what's out there cheap with a blown clutch, now that I had practice and own an engine bar!

[Superman]

Originally Posted by speeder

Oh boy, I would not even consider putting in an off brand or aftermarket clutch from Autozone in a German car.

The parts in German cars are all racist. They don't get along with parts from Brazil, China, etc. Perhaps the AutoZone disks are OEM. I dunno. I also think this is the time to replace all the wear parts. I once replaced all the clutch parts in a 911SC. Disk, PP, flywheel, release bearing, fork, guide tube and, as importantly as anything, cable. You wouldn't believe how great that car shifted. Tyson Schmidt was quite impressed.

[aigel]

Don't kid yourself - look at the parts origin in newer German cars. All over the world. Drive trains assembled in Bulgaria and then the car is made in Mexico. The usual German suppliers such as LUK have China plants too. Heck, even if you get a car assembled in Germany, say an MB in Stuttgart, you bet half the people on the line are immigrants from Turkey, Syria, former Yugoslavia etc. etc.

You saw the original clutch plate and how it failed? Not inspiring.

I did replace all the parts except for the shift fork which is just a stamped piece of metal. The angles and forces involved are well done in this setup, I have to say. And just like you described, this thing is a lot smoother / lighter than it was before. I got a big thumbs up from all the other drivers!

This is a daily driver that probably won't make it another 5 years in my possession. Have to balance effort, cost etc. Coming in under $600, I think.

[otto_kretschmer]

Originally Posted by aigel

Good idea to mark the bolt - I'll have to get one of those paint pens - it will be more visible than a sharpie.

A long time ago I was at a drug store and they had a bargin bin. Mostly junk for a dollar but I found yellow and orange nail polish and grabbed them. They've been in my tool box since and I keep needing them to mark the flywheel on my airheads and the pully on the 911.