MK6 Jetta Clutch

[aigel]

I have a 2012 Jetta with the 2.5 and a 5 speed stick. About 115k miles on the original clutch. Just getting started teaching my second kid how to drive and drive a manual! With the first sessions of figuring out launching the car in first, we definitely did some clutch work the last couple nights! On my wife's commute home today, she shifted from 4-5 on the interstate and with a crunching sound lost the clutch. Lost as in it did not engage at all and the car is in 'neutral'.

My bet is a throwout bearing. Maybe things got a big crispy from all that practicing with the new driver. (It was't smelly or overly bad, but I am sure warmer in there than usual). I never lost a clutch like this, it always would start to slip and degrade slowly, so I am a bit puzzled.

What does the brain trust think on next steps? My inclination is to remove the transmission and assess the situation. Then order parts?

Thanks!

George

[ninelevenick]

Just over a year ago, I experienced much as you described with my 2015 GTI, but symptoms popped up slowly. For example, reverse became increasingly difficult to engage until I could no longer. This happened over a two or three week period. I ordered a new TOB, clutch disc, flywheel, and main seal. It was worth it to me to replace everything. One thing to note is when my clutch on that car is healthy and working properly, I can hear the TOB make a tap noise when I put it into neutral. That went away when my clutch went south.

[john walker's workshop]

Check your axles. A CV joint break or disconnect has that symptom.

[David]

Most likely the clutch. My son drives a 2015 Jetta 1.8T. He lost the clutch around 40K. We took it to the dealer because I didn't want to deal with it but then I went back in the dealer shop and looked at it. That has to be the simplest transmission to pull. We should have done it ourselves. Good luck.

[Arizona_928]

Throw out bearing. Clutch fork. Pressure plate.

[aigel]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Check your axles. A CV joint break or disconnect has that symptom.

Oh, nice suggestion - that would be great. I jacked it up and played with the axles and CV joints. Look to be intact and no noises. But I will make sure I will disconnect them first, when starting the job and do a much closer inspection. Thank you!

[aigel]

Thanks for all the input. Preparing to dig in on the weekend.

Now, how do I avoid buying a engine bar to hold up the engine? It is under $100 but really want to avoid adding to my pile of large tools! Can I use my transmission jack from below?

[Otter74]

Check the CV joints first - remove outer joints from hub end first, put lever in neutral and see if you can turn them and if they operate normally. If they're normal, it's upstream of them. If not, there's your problem. If it's not the axles, a broken pressure plate seems most likely for a clutch stuck in the disengaged state.

[Arizona_928]

If it was cv you'll be able to shift into gears...
Not sure about an exploded diff inside the trans....

You can use a jack with wood on the oil pan.

[Jeff Alton]

Originally Posted by aigel

Thanks for all the input. Preparing to dig in on the weekend.

Now, how do I avoid buying a engine bar to hold up the engine? It is under $100 but really want to avoid adding to my pile of large tools! Can I use my transmission jack from below?

If you are not doing the job on a hoist, then you can support the engine from below with a floor jack or jackstand (or two) as long as the weight is spread out. You could always buy an engine bar and then sell it on FBMP or Craigslist for most of what you paid for it.


Email me if you want some of the manual pages.

Cheers

[ninelevenick]

I would bite the bullet and get the engine bar. It comes in handy. I have used mine to change out the engine mounts on both my GTI and my Cayenne S.

[aigel]

I started today and have a couple hours into it, mostly done getting everything off.

Axles need to come out??? For you guys that have experience with this job ... coming from the 911, I have always hung the axles out of the way and off you go. All the people online and the Haynes manual remove the axle shafts completely. No shortcuts?

There are other big asks, such as removal of the electric fans and disconnecting the exhaust (completely, not just the exhaust mounts). I guess getting it out is easy, getting it back in can be a pain in the arse if you even remotely hit anything.

I also came to the conclusion I'll need an engine bar. Nothing under $120 used on CL, so I'll go to HF tomorrow. I think the engine bar in combination with my motorcycle lift (from the 911 engine pulls) should do a good job without having to manhandle anything. I do have a cherry picker engine hoist, but that will have the legs in the way and may sag over time.

Wish me luck!

[ninelevenick]

I removed the inner axles only and the cups. I also had to disconnect the tie rod ball joint to the driver side wheel hub to gain clearance for dropping the transmission because the dangling axle gets in the way. The tranny will have to come out laterally about 3 inches to clear the clutch mechanism and then down it comes. I used my ATV jack to ease it down.

[aigel]

I did buy an engine bar and removed the axles. I did not remove the cups and paid the price for that, dicking with it 10 minutes longer than I needed until I took the passenger's side axle cup out.

When the trans came out, I saw this. Clearly I have a clutch problem!



Turns out the rivets are clear sheared off. They are not worn down or touched anything. Have you guys seen anything like this before?





I bought a replacement sent at AutoZone which looks makedly different, with bigger rivets. Overall not a bad job, but I can't say I like FWD cars. The grease in the cups made a mess. I am not good keeping clean. Haha.

Thanks for all the help so far, I'll keep you posted. I'll probably continue next weekend if I can't find a couple evenings to finish it off.

[Arizona_928]

Interesting that the disc was the weak link. I would make sure the fork is g2g too.


I take autozone clutch is a luk?

[aigel]

Thanks AZ928! Funny you asked - the replacement I received in the box is an AMS and looking at the pictures on the AZ site, it is supposed to be a LUK in that kit! Further inspection reveals that the ID, OD and flange thickness are all incorrect on this AMS disc.

I ordered another clutch kit and returning this one. I bet someone switched out the contents on a return. You have to be on your toes on this stuff, that's for sure. Imagine I would have put that disc in there! It is just close enough where it may have been able to go in.

I'll keep you guys posted on this adventure.

[speeder]

Oh boy, I would not even consider putting in an off brand or aftermarket clutch from Autozone in a German car. Especially when you can probably get the correct Sachs kit for the same price if you know where to look. Even if there is a small savings on the off brand part, it’s not worth it due to the labor involved and the importance of a well functioning and long lasting clutch. YMMV but not by much.

[speeder]

Ok, I just checked and it turns out that the LUK is the OEM clutch. I found the complete kit for $265 but the web address is blocked on this site for obvious reasons.

[aigel]

Denis - the AutoZone kit should be a LUK which is OEM indeed because that's what came out of there. Not everything at AutoZone is junk and they have some awesome warranties - no receipt required. I have had cars where I had free brake pads for life, for example. Their higher tier pads are quite good. AutoZone doesn't manufacture anything, these guys are all selling the same stuff. That all said, yes, there is stupid stuff that can happen like this clutch that looks to be a return in the wrong box. I bet someone bought the wrong clutch at a place they couldn't exchange it, then bought the correct one at AZ and returned the wrong one. Nice!

[aigel]

Originally Posted by speeder

Ok, I just checked and it turns out that the LUK is the OEM clutch. I found the complete kit for $265 but the web address is blocked on this site for obvious reasons.

$277 at AutoZone