Need advice on how to replace a split gate post

[cantdrv55]

All really good ideas, fellas. Thanks a bunch. I’ll take better pics tomorrow. I knew I can depend on the Pelican brain trust.

[island911]

There ya go (jyl's post sleeve idea)



And some paint. IDK...

[john70t]

The gate might be toast to my eyes.

As a minimum unscrew it,
set flat in driveway,
wood bleach/cleaner it and let soak in,
power wash, let dry a week or two,
unscrew, bar clamp it back to square, You can 'handshake' these to any length
screw back together with new hardware (stuff rotten holes with toothpicks),
soak with good stain ~ cherry colored two coats would be a guess but always err on the light side
add corner brackets https://www.strongtie.com/solutions Simpson now makes nice thick black pieces

[island911]

Yeah, but the Simpson stuff is going to rust.

Use only SS for anything outdoors structural.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by john70t

The gate might be toast to my eyes.

As a minimum unscrew it,
set flat in driveway,
wood bleach/cleaner it and let soak in,
power wash, let dry a week or two,
unscrew, bar clamp it back to square, You can 'handshake' these to any length
screw back together with new hardware (stuff rotten holes with toothpicks),
soak with good stain ~ cherry colored two coats would be a guess but always err on the light side
add corner brackets https://www.strongtie.com/solutions Simpson now makes nice thick black pieces

Corner braces are good but it will still sag over short period of time. If look isn't a huge concern, I have fixed my in law's big old swinging garage doors that been working fine for over 15 years with a couple pieces of plywood. This thing was built in the mid 20s. Square up your gate by squeezing the gate square with pipe clamps or by twisting a rope with t stick and a couple of screw eyes if you are cheap. Apply a 1 1/2' wide piece of 1/2' thick exterior plywood, glued and screwed (exterior wood glue. I use Franklin Titebond III with great result or urethane if you like to turn your fingers blacks for days) to both outer corners. Run plywood from top to bottom. Do it on the side that's less likely to be seen or the ugly side. You will get 10 years out of that in mild climates like Norcal easily. Notch around the hardware if necessary.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by island911

Yeah, but the Simpson stuff is going to rust.

Use only SS for anything outdoors structural.

All great stuff but I thik Can'tdrive just want the gate to work without much fuss.

[cstreit]

I'd like to see what it looks like as well.

If I really had to get that post out, I'd probably sink some lag bolts into it, and use a bottle jack on either side to try and jack it out.

[p911dad]

I did something similar last year. The post was a 6 X 6 end post and not rotted. I attached an "L" shaped iron bracket to the post (a wood block might also work) with 3 long screws and used my garage floor jack sitting on a board to slowly lift it out straight up and out. I didn't think it would work but I didn't want to have to dig it out. If that post is typical it is it there at least 24". I had to reposition the jack several times as the angle of the arm changed with the changing height of the "L" shaped arm as it came out.

[Cajundaddy]

Agree with the others. Glue and screw the post to keep it solid, no need to dig it out. Lay out the gate and get it square. A diagonal cable with turnbuckle from the top hinge bolt can keep it that way and eliminate sag.

[wdfifteen]

Sounds like a great excuse to use explosives, but probably more socially acceptable to repair the top portion and let the bottom go.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by wdfifteen

Sounds like a great excuse to use explosives, but probably more socially acceptable to repair the top portion and let the bottom go.

Winner! Tell WDF what he won!

[Scott Douglas]

I'd change those hinges if it were mine. Get some of the kind they use for chain link fences. Thru bolt them to the post and gates. Much easier to adjust the swing of the gates with them.

[craigster59]

Originally Posted by Cajundaddy

Agree with the others. Glue and screw the post to keep it solid, no need to dig it out. Lay out the gate and get it square. A diagonal cable with turnbuckle from the top hinge bolt can keep it that way and eliminate sag.

Turnbuckle is great idea. Some real gate hardware wouldn't hurt either...

https://www.vandykes.com/gate-hardware/c/505/

https://www.hingeandlatch.com/fieldgate.php

[cantdrv55]

Here are pics of the gate and posts. Based on some of the advice here, I’ll reinforce the posts with glue and screws plus square up the gate. I’ll probably replace the 1x6s with 14 guage galvanized fence wire. That’ll lighten the gate, prevent further sagging and be able to withstand wind gusts we often get here.

[cantdrv55]

[herr_oberst]

Like others have said, your posts look fine. Your gates are the problem.

Designed to sag and rack from day one.

[oldE]

If your posts are plumb, your gates are warped. As above, through bolt the posts to eliminate or contain further splitting. Add diagonal bracing to the gate halves. I would add wheels to the ends of the gates to carry the weight.
I would not use turnbuckles and cables to support the sagging of the gates as that might worsen the warping.
Maybe just rebuild the gates so they are not twisted.

Best
Les

[herr_oberst]

I think look171 and his plywood fix are going to be the best way to go here. I think that's what I'd do. It'll eliminate the sag and the warp.

[911 Rod]

What does your level say?

[GDNF2ET]

Those gates need wheels for support..