Small circular saw reco's...

[herr_oberst]

Just mark one of the edges with a marker or a piece of tape, and only use that one?

In fact, you'll want to scribe a mark on the top of the guard from the tool to the center of the edge so that you can line up a corresponding mark on your straightedge that'll give you a quick reference when you need to plunge. Once you do that, you'll have the side you always use anyway.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

Just mark one of the edges with a marker or a piece of tape, and only use that one?

In fact, you'll want to scribe a mark on the top of the guard from the tool to the center of the edge so that you can line up a corresponding mark on your straightedge that'll give you a quick reference when you need to plunge. Once you do that, you'll have the side you always use anyway.

He shoots. He Scores!

[look 171]

Originally Posted by masraum

Interesting. So you don't think a palm router would be better for this sort of thing?

Oh yeah, the trimmer would be ideal but it is such specialized tool, once done, most will never see day light again around the house whereas a Dremel, its a lot more useful around the house. It almost does the same thing as Scott wanted.

With the router, I would build a jig that allows no measuring but the grooves on the board. Line up, clamp and cut. No need for edge guide and the router will always be straight cutting and fool proof.

[look 171]

like this but much smaller but no width adjust ability

[Scott Douglas]

I knew there was a reason I like hanging out here. Making a jig will certainly help a lot.
Thanks for posting that!

[911 Rod]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

I'd be inclined to use a router held against a straight edge.

This is the proper tool.

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

I knew there was a reason I like hanging out here. Making a jig will certainly help a lot.
Thanks for posting that!

Looks like you figured it out!

[dad911]

Might as well go all out.

Small CNC machine:

https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve

[Scott Douglas]

OK, no cnc machines here except for the quilt machine.

Got busy this morning and found some scrap lumber in my salvage savings pile. Found some wood screws too. Got my jig made as best I could. Looks pretty good, works too.
Got my first panel all routed in no time flat. Super easy as clamping on my small work table holds everything without being overly tight.
I'm happy as can be.
Now the hardest thing for me will be transferring the patterns to the panels.








One down, three to go.

[masraum]

Nice!



How many of you saw the pic above and had the A-Team theme play in your head?

[Scott Douglas]

This did take a lot of planning. I don't think my wife thought I'd ever get to this point of the project. I need to get busy again so I can paint when the weather warms up later this week.

[Zeke]

The thing that I have run into using parallel guides rather than a track is binding at some point. That can ruin you work and your day. Looks like you got them nice and straight. Good job.

I had to do a light v-groove diamond pattern with the diamonds 2" tall. Set up was a nightmare. Just think if I had FUBAR'd the last one.

[Scott Douglas]

The machinist in me wouldn't allow it to be made anything but straight, Zeke.
I did choose the easiest one to cut first as all the cuts are continuous and long straight lines.
I've got the patterns on the other panels now, but I need to figure out how to do nice short runs that stop in the middle of the panel.
At least each panel has two sides so there is some room for error, but not much.

[Scott Douglas]

I made a modification to my jig this afternoon in hopes that the addition will make it a little easier tomorrow to do the shorter cuts.

At least now I'll have a 'Stop' that I can adjust so I won't go too far.
Still need to figure out a way to get the start point right though.

[look 171]

On the bottom of that jig, face screw the plywood square or perpendicular to the side rails and run your router bit into that about 1/2" It will mark the exact location of its cutting path or width. No more measuring, line up cut mark to the stock to be cut and it will be much more accurate and fast too.

[Scott Douglas]

I'm sorry look 171, I'm not following you.
My jig is made from pieces that have the 'sides' on them as part of the larger flat piece. IE they're a big "L" shape. As you can see in my picture, the router is sitting flat on my workbench with the router tip removed so it'll sit flat, as if on a piece of wood to be cut/routed.
How should I do what you are saying again?

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

I'm sorry look 171, I'm not following you.
My jig is made from pieces that have the 'sides' on them as part of the larger flat piece. IE they're a big "L" shape. As you can see in my picture, the router is sitting flat on my workbench with the router tip removed so it'll sit flat, as if on a piece of wood to be cut/routed.
How should I do what you are saying again?

I need to draw you a pic or find a vid of this. Hard to type out. I must to check on my mother, but will get back to you later this evening.

[Scott Douglas]

I think I understand what you're trying to say.
Can you see the red markings I put on the picture?

I think what you're saying is, put a piece of wood to the left of the router some distance down the jig, and route into the jig side pieces, perpendicular to the jig main travel direction. This will show me where the router is on the 'left' end of the cut.

[Zeke]

I think look is saying to make a sled.

[Scott Douglas]

I'm not sure how a sled will work, Zeke.
As you can see, the base of the router sits proud to the side pieces so the 'fence' I put on the end hits it.
What I need is a way to locate the 'other' end of a cut being made in the middle of a panel.
Here's a better picture of what I have installed.

[Zeke]

I could be dead wrong but I'm thinking parallel rabbets that sit over your guides. Yeah, you'd have to lower your bit, but longer guides would eliminate the possibility of getting a bit twisted and bound up. Longer guides allow for witness marks to know where to start and stop.

BTDT.