Can aluminum angle be bent to a radius ?

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

If it works I am set . If it doesn't work my plan B will be to rivet in the straight sections and make radius pieces out of flat sheet stock . May not be as strong as one piece but the two radius corners are only supporting a mattress .

It Plan B above is your option - how about buying 2 radius bends and cutting open the inner radius? Not necessarily cheap - but might size quite a bit of time.

https://www.amazon.com/KRD-PERFORMANCE-Aluminum-Intercooler-Treatment/dp/B0BHPG61M1/ref=d_pd_sbs_sccl_1_1/138-9371009-0803548?pd_rd_w=um0Ld&content-id=amzn1.sym.979276af-0315-48f7-920c-ae1ddfce33e2&pf_rd_p=979276af-0315-48f7-920c-ae1ddfce33e2&pf_rd_r=ZVM2M84CS4JWH2T5B57N&pd_rd_wg=qL3DZ&pd_rd_r=f9d5b00d-fb28-456f-9b65-a967fd3bdd3c&pd_rd_i=B0BHPG61M1&th=1

[javadog]

You could start with a flat sheet, cut a U-shape out of it, and make the angled flange you want by forming it over a wooden buck. In this case, you want to use a more suitable grade of aluminum, in a zero temper.

Or pay to have someone bend it for you. Personally, I’d bend a square tube and then cut off all I don’t need.

[URY914]

Rick, at least you're not trying to drill into fiberglass.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

I have a project where I need to bend aluminum angle to two radiuses. The angle I am thinking of using is 2.5 x 2.5 x 3/16 thick 6061 T6 . Basically making a U out of an 8 ' stick .

Plan to make relief cuts where I want to bend . The radius bends are about 14-16 inches long the rest stays straight . Is this crazy or can it work ?

As I understand it you are making one 14 to 16 inch radius bend in a piece of 3/16 aluminum, right? Making triangular relief cuts will work. To regain full strength of the angle you will need to have someone weld the joints after you bend it.

[dad911]

Are you really set on aluminum? can it be tubular? EMT (metal conduit) is galvanized, lightweight, and the benders are only about $40 to buy. Couplers and bends also sold at the box stores.

I would make a full size template with EMT anyway.

[Zeke]

When bending AL angle you are bending one leg the 'hard' way. It will work harden as you go so heating it now and then will help temper it. If you go slow and move it frequently you can bend it in a vise with smooth covers on the jaws and a rubber hammer. Hit it gently and continuously just off the edge of the vise. The angle stock will compress or stretch slightly on the edge aligned with the jaws.

A 16" radius is a 32" diameter. I don't know how long the piece is or if the bend has to be perfectly circular. You said 2 radii. Also you don't state whether the leg bending the hard way is inside or outside. If you had a tubing bender and the right dies this would go pretty well. The ring roller shown above will leave knurling marks on your work but the outside could be sanded, filed or otherwise cleaned up easy. A shrinker/stretcher works very well but leaves marks.

To the person the said bend 2 pieces and TIG weld it back together, remember that one side still has to be bent the 'hard' way.

There are ways to make forms and jigs of course, but bending yields a lot of forces and unless the work is really well secured it will compromise the form. The vise is really enough tool to hold the work as you go. You can always flatten the hard bend on an anvil or other hard surface. Putting some strain in the direction of the bend while flattening the hard way bend can be of some help.

That's the best written explanation I can do and I didn't readily see a video except one that does it a little differently. Whatever works.

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by Zeke

To the person the said bend 2 pieces and TIG weld it back together, remember that one side still has to be bent the 'hard' way.

I did not say bend two pieces, I said make it from two pieces. One piece can be rolled, the other I would cut that piece from a sheet on the band saw, or I would have it laser cut.

I think the aluminum needs to be notched if you use angle, then it needs to be welded, so why not make it exact and then weld it.

Send-cut-send...or, use a different material. Aluminum is not your friend here. Steel angle, heat, cut, roll, weld, whatever. Then clean it up and powder coat it.

[rfuerst911sc]

Went to a few local stores today . Biggest aluminum angle I found was 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1/8 thick . But I was impressed with the strength so it looks like 1/8 will work .

Yes aluminum is what I want to use . The rest of the 55 year old camper is aluminum so I want to stay with it . I will search locally to see if I can find what I want . If not I will order online .

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by URY914

Rick, at least you're not trying to drill into fiberglass.

Haha good one 👍 . I was watching that post from flatty .

[LWJ]

It’s going to work. Cut the kerf. Put some heat on it. Use a jig. You got this.

Counter to all I wrote prior, we made some fan rings for Freightliner that were about 32” diameter.

Aluminum is really soft stuff when you take the temper out.

[cjh]

The company I worked for a few years ago, specialized in rolling plate, beams, angles, flats and tubing from steel and aluminum. I don't remember the specifice's on the minimum radius of specific sized aluminum angles they could roll, but remember to use fresh aluminum angle to prevent work hardening and you will need to have what is called a tangent to start and stop the rolling.
Know if you want leg in, leg out, heal in or heal out.

[Jeff Alton]

Flat bar no problem. Angle will require relief cuts.

Depending on how deep you want to get into it, 0 Temper would be the easiest to work with in a 5000 series, but would require heat treating to gain some strength post bending. But without temper it is quite formable.

Cheers

[rfuerst911sc]

Took a couple pics to help explain what I am attempting to do . The pic with the square box shows how the angle material will be installed . The vertical section of the L will be riveted to an existing aluminum rib . The horizontal portion of the L will be riveted to the bottom skin that covers the bunk section . That bottom skin is what you look at when outside the camper looking up .

The other two pics show the front two radius corners . When the new angle is installed there will be a empty cavity between it and the outside skin . I am thinking I may fill that cavity with expanding foam . It is light weight , waterproof and would add additional rigidity . After the angle is installed I will then make a center backbone out of 2x2 or 2.5 x 2.5 square aluminum stock . Then off that center backbone will be additional joists out of the same material .

It will all be riveted/screwed/adhered and then foam sheets will be cut to size and fit in between the structure . You can see the rotted mess that I still have left to remove . It looks like the overhead roof vent was left open at some point and rain came in . But I will go over the entire exterior skin to make sure there is no water entry . Keep in mind this old girl is 55 years old

[Avendel]

I’ve had better luck bending 6061 after annealing it, mark it with soap, heat it until the soap turns black, then it’s soft enough to work without cracking.