Speaker Re-Foaming

[herr_oberst]

That rug really brings the room together. Also, that is an impressive set of Dynaudio speakers.

[herr_oberst]

So, aschen, now that you have the Parts Express speakers done and dusted, the Googleverse has oodles of sites that show plans and how-tos for building your own LaScala clones! Are you up for the challenge? Will you bring us along on the build?

[aschen]

Thanks I think that is the first compliment I have ever received on an interior design choice in my life!


At the risk of having things thrown at me LaScala's would not be my first choice. Now JBL M2 Clones I could see myself doing......I'm sure y'all would get pics weather you liked it or not . I think there are clone plans and guilines for alot of commercial and hobbyist designs. DIY audio really is a cool and active hobby if you have time and inclination. Slapping together a Parts express kit is kinda like the Porsche 924 of the hobby though

[herr_oberst]

Apparently all DIY if the description is to be believed. I'd love to hear this IRL

[stevej37]

I first bought this disc in the early 80's as a LaserDisc, then a DVD, then a BluRay.
It's a great disc for testing out your home theater system.

[stevej37]

I made a change in my sub hook-up. I deleted the LFE cable between the amp and the sub. I then connected the amps front speakers outputs to the two rca jack line inputs on the sub.

Now I have low end bass for all cable channels and streaming. I like it.

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by stevej37

I made a change in my sub hook-up. I deleted the LFE cable between the amp and the sub. I then connected the amps front speakers outputs to the two rca jack line inputs on the sub.

Now I have low end bass for all cable channels and streaming. I like it.

I've done the same, and I'd like to try putting the main speakers in series to the sub, but the sub is behind the couch and the cables needed to go to the mains would be about 15-18 feet long, or more; those would cost about 150 bucks from Blue Jeans Cable to do it right, and I'm not sure if I'd notice any difference. Maybe I can borrow some cables to try it some day.

[stevej37]

^^^
Instead of joining the 'front speaker outs' on the back of the amp...I decided to do it at the back of the two front speakers. I managed to squeeze two wires on each of the connectors I just bought (post#73) It was tight, but the set screw holds them firmly.

First thing I noticed after using it this way....the sub gain control was way too high. I've got it down to about 2.5 now.

[herr_oberst]

I did it differently. I connected the "B speaker" out to the amp of the subwoofer. Then I completely turned off the subwoofer in the surround chain on the amp. It uses up a speaker output, but I mostly listen to music from the sweet spot of my couch anyway, and always in stereo, so ultra-theatre sound isn't an issue for me. I can still get acceptable theatre sound for movies by turning on the center channel and the two surround speakers also behind the couch.

Someday I may return to days of yore and simple when I just had a stereo amp and two speakers.

(My amp is a 7.1 Pioneer Elite that has plenty of options. Too many, if I'm honest. I sometimes forget to flip a switch or return to the correct mode and have to stop everything and figure out what needs what, but that's a different problem)

[Scott Douglas]

You guys would really get a kick out of what I use for speaker cables.

[stevej37]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

You guys would really get a kick out of what I use for speaker cables.

Car jumper cables?

[Rusty Heap]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

You guys would really get a kick out of what I use for speaker cables.

[Scott Douglas]

Both you guys are close, but no, not quite that bad.

[Rusty Heap]

All this talk about speaker cones had me track down a rattle in one of my Klipsch 21 year old drivers.

10" woofer from a KLF 10 which have 4 of them.

found a crack in the graphite grid of the cone from surround to center.

Center cap was loose too with poor adhesion.


Total speaker is replaceable as a "clone" but not the real thing.

Wonder what flexible adhesive would work to fix the crack and glue the cone back on?

I'd REALLY like to save this driver. Only rattles during deeeep bass.

thoughts from the Audio Brain Trust?

[Scott Douglas]

If it's graphite I wouldn't think you'd put anything that is going to be or remain flexible on it to fix it. The whole idea is the cone moves as one to make the sound.
I'd give super glue a go if it were mine.
The center cap is actually a dust cover helping to protect the voice coil.

[Rusty Heap]

Looks like Loctite 380 is a rubberized instant glue. Apply a small bead with a toothpick starting on the backside, then front........

https://www.eis-inc.com/product/instant-adhesive-ph11-loc-380?option=LOC38004

[Rusty Heap]

https://inosaki.com/product/loctite-38048042104212/

[stevej37]

Can you get at the backside to glue it?

Would it affect the sound if a half inch width of similar material was glued from the front, the length of the crack?

[908/930]

I would epoxy an oval carbon or kevlar patch over that crack, from behind the cone. Thin material like 2oz should work and about 1" wide, use the least amount of epoxy you can get away with.

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by Rusty Heap

Looks like Loctite 380 is a rubberized instant glue. Apply a small bead with a toothpick starting on the backside, then front........

https://www.eis-inc.com/product/instant-adhesive-ph11-loc-380?option=LOC38004

This is exactly how I'd fix it. The rubberized element is key. The smallest amount needed to bridge the gap. I'd also use a small artists paintbrush to clean inside the crack with denatured alcohol. Oh, and I'd carefully drill a small hole where the crack terminates to keep the crack from spreading all the way to the dust cone.

If the LocTite 380 is thin and runny, use blue masking tape to on the opposite side of the crack to keep the glue in place while it dries.

Think it through, figure out your moves, take your time. That's my free advice.