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Arched sheetrock question

Before I run off to buy a book I thought I'd hit up any experts lurking on the board. For my next DIY home project I want to arch all the lower level hallway entries. This is the look I am going for.



I have 7 standard squared hallway transitions and 1 entertainment nook all with bullnosed corners that I want to convert. Here is a picture with arrows of some candidates



I am planning to build arched plywood fittings (sorry for lack to technical jargon) that will screw into the existing openings. Then I would remove the existing sheetrock to the nearest vertical stud on each side and replace with a single piece cut that will accomodate my arch. I have little experience with drywall edging so I'm wondering how do I deal with the existing bullnose edging? Do I need to rip it out down to the floor and redo or can I blend my arched portion into what's already there? I want to do as much as possible myself as I'm on a limited budget (buying supplies for upcoming master bath tile job). Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

Thanks

Old 04-23-2006, 12:11 PM
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Don't worry about the drywalling, that bit is easy! The part requiring a good eye will be the mudding (plastering). Also, you will have to redo the headers above the openings. I would start by tearing out the d-wall above the opening to see what you should do to make the header. You are on the right track with the 'plywood fitttings'.
-Jeremy
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Old 04-23-2006, 12:47 PM
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What do you mean by bullnose corner? That usually describes a stair tread or counter top edge. Go to a building supply house (not Home Depot or Lowes) that supplies drywall to the trade. They will have pre-segmented drywall, edging, and plywood to make just about any shape that you want.
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Old 04-23-2006, 01:52 PM
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If you can't find the archway bead, you can cut standard bead (one side) every inch or so. Use plastic not metal.

Since your openings are different widths, you may want to use a more gradual arch instead of half circles. Keeping the bottoms(and tops) at the same height and vary the radius usually looks better.

I'll second the 1/4" sheetrock. Or score the back of 1/2" sheetrock every few inches perpendicular to the bend, and skim coat the whole arch. Set the corner beads carefully, and use a wide knife to fill in between with spackle.

Use a paint mixer in an electric drill to mix the spackle and it will go on smoother.
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Old 04-23-2006, 02:28 PM
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errr, I just looked at the photo of your house again, and I would do some inspecting before you get your hopes up about that project. It looks as though there may be a beam above those openings. I don't think you've got the height to do the arches within the current opening so whether or not there is a beam there is kinda important.
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Old 04-23-2006, 06:11 PM
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Attached is a picture I took in the framing stage of the entertainment nook and the entry/hallway (left & middle arrows of the original picture).



I was not intending on removing what's there (d-wall) . Clearance would be a problem for a full half circle so I'm going for something less - sorry that did not come across in my original post. I was thinking of arches that start on the ends and meet near the middle.

Procon - the segmented arch bead looks like a probable match. I'll have to take a look.

What about the transition from the arch bullnose bead to the existing bullnose bead. Do I demo what's there and replace with a single strip (floor to arch to floor) or can I mud the transition enough to look good and not crack over time? I'm kinda lame in the sheetrock finishing dept. Great tips on using 1/4". I've walked through construction sites and seen them use that and/or 1/2" scored every couple inches.
Old 04-23-2006, 07:58 PM
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Take some measurements. Plan ahead.

When setting up you plywood frames you need them to finish without sheet rock, the same dimension thickness as the wall framing.

So, maybe 1/2 ply + 2 1/2 wood + 1/2 ply to equal 3 1/2 if it's 2x4 framing.

I'd attach the 2x to the head and run the verticals down to lowest point of your arches with a taper at the bottom for the arch shape.
Put the plywood on and then ad blocking every few inches along the inside of the arch. use a framing nailer or screws. Hand nailing would be a nightmare.

Attach the sheetrock as a rectangle and dremel/roto-zip in place.

Use the flexible round corners and let them overlap the existing corners. One layer of 1/4 sheet rock on the inside of the arches should be great.

Don't rush...ask questions.


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Old 04-23-2006, 08:10 PM
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Call.......a........contractor......

EDIT: I'm not just being a wise arse. I built out my entire basement. Framing, wiring, windows, hung doors...but I got contractors for sheet rock and trim work.

Sheet rock SUCKS. Its not hanging the sheet thats the problem, its the mudding. You might get it right after a *****load of sanding, but the pros make it look to easy, and your house looks great. Those curves are not going to easy.

Sorry to be a kill joy, but I'm just trying to save you grief.
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Old 04-23-2006, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by dmoolenaar
Attached is a picture I took in the framing stage of the entertainment nook and the entry/hallway (left & middle arrows of the original picture).



I was not intending on removing what's there (d-wall) . Clearance would be a problem for a full half circle so I'm going for something less - sorry that did not come across in my original post. I was thinking of arches that start on the ends and meet near the middle.

Procon - the segmented arch bead looks like a probable match. I'll have to take a look.

What about the transition from the arch bullnose bead to the existing bullnose bead. Do I demo what's there and replace with a single strip (floor to arch to floor) or can I mud the transition enough to look good and not crack over time? I'm kinda lame in the sheetrock finishing dept. Great tips on using 1/4". I've walked through construction sites and seen them use that and/or 1/2" scored every couple inches.
If you are not changing or removing the headers (wood over the openings, don't worry about the structure. If you want to change the opening, post some pics of what the framing looks like above the walls. (if you have some)
Old 04-24-2006, 04:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by HardDrive
Call.......a........contractor......

EDIT: I'm not just being a wise arse. I built out my entire basement. Framing, wiring, windows, hung doors...but I got contractors for sheet rock and trim work.

Sheet rock SUCKS. Its not hanging the sheet thats the problem, its the mudding. You might get it right after a *****load of sanding, but the pros make it look to easy, and your house looks great. Those curves are not going to easy.

Sorry to be a kill joy, but I'm just trying to save you grief.
Secret is thin coats with minimal sanding.

If you want to build confidence before trashing your house, wood & sheetrock is cheap. Build an arch as a test, and see how it comes out before cutting into your walls.

Just like I would try welding scrap metal before trying to weld my 911.....
Old 04-24-2006, 04:40 AM
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I really think you should make some cardboard mock ups and tape them in place, just to see if you hit your head on the sides or feel weird walking through them. Judging from your photo I wouldn't go that route if it were my house because I'm tall and so are a lot of my friends, and I have trouble walking straight most of the time, so walking straight through the arch to avoid smacking my head would be hard for me.
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Old 04-24-2006, 05:58 AM
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Sorry: I think you should make some cardboard mock ups to see if you can get the look that you want (countour and rate of arch) within the confines of the opening. I know you could make some 6"R fillets and call it an arch, but I don't think that is what you are looking for.
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Old 04-24-2006, 06:01 AM
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Thanks for the great responses. I'll mock up some cardboard arches this weekend and see how it looks.
Old 04-24-2006, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by HardDrive
Sheet rock SUCKS. Its not hanging the sheet thats the problem, its the mudding.
Amen. When I built my shop, I was quoted $400 to hang the sheet rock, and $2300 to tape and mud! I did the T&M myself; it took 3 weeks and anything above 8' high looks like ass.
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Old 04-24-2006, 08:20 AM
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I did this exact project in my house several years ago. I went the whole route; building a frame, scoring and bending strips of rock, cutting and installing the bead.

After lots of mud, sanding, and cursing, it came out pretty darned good.

The real cursing started when a friend showed me a cataloge full of foam curves and arches that you tape in place, skin with mud and paint. That would have saved tons of time and trouble.
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Old 04-24-2006, 09:44 AM
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A while back I was online and came across something similar but didn't bookmark the URL. Do you have any more details?
Old 04-24-2006, 06:13 PM
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I wish I did. It was a paper catalog and I didn't keep it. I'm sure Google is your friend. A 30 second search found this: http://www.globalms.com/Arches.html - not exactly what you're after, but they might point you the right way.

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Old 04-25-2006, 06:40 AM
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